Jump to content
SAU Community

R32: Rear Speaker Installation (Sedan)


Mulkers
 Share

Recommended Posts

Firstly remove the back seat.

This sounds easy in hindsight, but is hard to begin with.

1. The bottom section comes out first

seat_tab.jpg

The tab in the bottom left hand side of the pic is what is trying to be removed.

It sits about six inches in from the door, and requires a decent (re: LOT) of force backwards and upwards to get it out.

After sweat and tears (thankfully no blood) the seat lifts up, and out.

2. The back section comes out next, and needs 2 10mm bolts removed. This then also lifts out.

The parcel shelf is then removed by pulling it up to remove those little plastic annoying tabs, and pulled towards the front of the car to get around the rear windsheild wiper.

(In my case, the brake light wiring was cut, and later soldered, as it would disconect)

difference.jpg

3. The new speaker can now replace the old

In this case, JBL 60RMS 6.5" 2 ways compared to National 8w 6".

installed.jpg

otherinstall.jpg

4. Put parts back together in the reverese order to which they were pulled apart; parcel shelf, back section of seat, bottom of seat.

5. Now its done, and except for the listener, no ones the wiser;

sleeper.jpg

Sorry about pic quality i used a video camera.

Feel free to ask qs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

im pretty sure the rear speaker install for an R32 coupe and sedan are the same.

well a bit easier on the sedan cos youve got back doors and makes gettin in and out easier.... thats about it

did my rear speakers myself (sedan) and helped mate do his (coupe)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Im not sure if it is correct or not? But i have been told that there is an amp for the rear speakers? Is this true? And did you replace the speaker cable to the head unit or just replaced the speakers? Im getting a R32 sedan soon and would like some good sound. nothing over the top but i have heard the stock speakers and well they are showing there age.

If this is true is it ahrd to wire the new speakers up into the amp or just by pass it and go straight for the head unit and have fun ripping up the carpet and so forth?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Gday Mulkers,

Just a quick question, I know it has been a while since you put ya back speakers in but do you remember where you bought them from?

Having read your DIY I’m now deciding to go with the 6.5" JBL's like you did or put in a set of 6 x 9's with some spacers.

I guess with the 6.5's you keep the stock covers, which is a bonus,

Any thoughts since you have now had em for a while?

Thanks heaps,

Regards,

Sean'O

ps: e-bay is an option i know, but i would like to hear them before i buy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sean'O.

I used Kenwood 3 way 6" replacements in my 4 dr last week. They are working fine now.

If u use 6"x9" speakers u lose the plastic covers and invite ppl to lok more at ur car and contemplate being but heads.

I kept the speaker covers as i dont want my car getting more attention then it allready will once it gets back from the pantshop on sunday.

And also what speakers are u guys replacing ur front ones with? WHat sizes. I havent connected the old ones as i want to know what i should go out and buy to replace the 17yr old ones.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just put some kenwood 5 1/4 inch 3 ways (or maybe they were 2 ways) in the front. i managed to fit them in the standard pod, but will be taking them out and using an MDF holder thingy (predator posted a design). they fit ok and clear everything ok, but i think lack of air-gap is giving some distortion and high volume.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey there R32_4door_drifting,

Sorry about the late reply but i just managed to install my speakers the day before i went on a holiday.

I got back a few hours ago lol

Front speakers, well i used a pair of JBL 6 x 4's becasue a lot of ppl i had noticed installed these and they fit in flush with a few minor cuts around the edges, i'm not the best handlyman so i couldn't be stuffed installing custome encolosures for 6" splits etc.

They sound pretty damn good compared to the old crappy ones, wait till you see the old ones lol.

Ps: i ended up going with the 2-way JBL 6.5's in the back, sound AWSOME compared to the stocko's :wub:.

i'll give you the speaker code thingo's if you want to go hunting for them, but i got all my stuff through Strathfield. Beware the 6 x 4's are a speciality so you may have to wait while they order them in. All up it cost $170 (with discounts), well worth it.

6 x 4's : GTO6426e

6.5's : GTO626e

Check out this guys r32, it helped me a bit installing them..

- http://www.geocities.com/brendonmoses/gts4page22.html

Other good info that made it easy for me...

- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117576

Good luck with it all mate,

Sorry again for the late reply

Regards,

Sean'O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

dont bother with the stock amp, run the speakers off the head unit and leave it at that. your headunit's amp will sound a lot better than the factory amp anyway, its a tiny round POS just behind your rear wiper motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

just buy a descent aftermarket 4-channel amp, one that can fit under the seat run the speakers to that then all you have to run RCA's to the head unit. much cleaner and easier in my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...