nicksamaniac

Yeah your right, i mounted it before and saw the outer faces of the pulley dont line up, so i thought it wasnt going to work. But have since bolted it on, and as you said it fits, the inside edges line up. i had to use a 4pk925 belt with a rib cut off, i couldn't get a 3pk/3 rib in the correct length and the 4pk940 it had on the rb20 was to big. But yeah its all fitted now, happy days, Cheers. I get to keep the hicas!

has anyone run the rb20det twin-pump (steer/hicas pump) on the rb25det? ive done search after search, and only found non hicas setups, which is an easy swap, or others have just deleted the hicas, and I don't want to delete it if I can avoid it. im in the middle of re-powering my r32 gtst with an r33 donor car, using the rb25det and fs5r30a box. im about to fabricate a new braket to mount it, but if anyone has a simple solution id like to know about it?

Whats a 20 worth to sell anyways? Given i dont think its worth the steam off my p!ss.

Im already getting quotes from a few places, trying to get a halfcut to upgrade the box as well. Possibly a neo with r33 gb combo i think would work well. ive completely lost faith in this engine, have even spoke to a few rb tuners, they agree to just upgrade it.

Also to mention, i monitored the map watch and afm voltage at cruise speed, On flat road, afm voltage and load points where solid and holding steady but afrs where rich off scale 10:1 to 13:1 back and forth while holding steady a load point. This led me to the short in the harness theory, but to no avail.

Running issues are intermittently happening still. So..... Changed out my fuel rail, reg and injectors from my rb30det (hardware i know works) along with the power fc, loaded an rb20det tune along with all the injector corrections to suit. Drove around all good, drove it work for night shift (27km trip) and it was perfect, afrs where imo spot on the money, drove really nice, crispy performance. Then drove home at around 2am, nice cool air about 22' and got about 2 min up the road, solid off scale rich, coughing and sputtering its so rich, all the way home. So i think, only hardware left is the harness, the rest i know works perfectly in my other car, so i strip the harness looking for a short in the injector signal wires (thinking they're being held open via a ground short circuit, rub through wire) And i found nothing but a surprisingly good cond harness. Fml! Separately wrapped up the inj signal wires, tapped the harness back up, no change obviously! So put all the stock hardware back in. Still rich af at idle, (it stalls/fouls plugs if left idling to long) Ran a new afm harness back to the ecu today, along with different afm. Ill test drive tomorrow. Thing has me stumped......

Haha yeah i know, i feel as though there could be injector flow issues, going to see if i can get them tested local to see if they're consistent flow.

So I think I may have fixed it? Between both sets of injectors, my old set from my 25de and the set out of it, ive found 3 dead injectors in total. So I measured them all for impedance, basket cleanliness, and set them up and ran them with the old cas spin method to trick the ecu into cycling them, 2 would do nothing and 1 would only work 50% of the time, and 2 of the 3 had high resistance, So I picked 6 that tested up and functioned ok. Put them in and it started and idled perfect straight away. Set the base idle and then base timing to 20', Took for a drive and feels like stock standard again, happy days! Afrs are not as tidy as id expect for a factory tune, but good enough to drive properly. They're atleast steady, close to what id target and not crazy rich/lean like it was.

Hopefully going in next week for a few hrs with dvs-jez, hopefully he can work it put. Im at a complete loss on what to do? Ive been right over it, methodically tested and inspected everything from scratch. No results thus far, still running like a 2bob watch. Spoke to a few tuners, decided a fresh set of eyes is next on the to do list. If I cant get this engine to run as it should, then im not going to waste any more time or money on it, seeing its nothing special anyways, (especially after driving my rb26 or 30det, the 20 is very average) ill drop either an rb25det in or neo 25det in it, then develop from there.

It has now got my old injectors from my rb25de (engine was the head donor for my 30det) still running the same? I seriously cant fault anything, ive even started again from scratch thinking i probably missed something. But have come up empty, i even dud all the process flow chart checks from the wshop manual. Im about to buy a 25 and harness to drop in and just replace this pos! Id read heaps of threads on 20 issues, and thought id never own 1 cos there obviously no good. But decided id give this one the benefit of doubt cos i liked the car. So here i am with 1 and it has issues! What do ya know!

Ok, update, tested every circuit from sensor or actuator bact to the ecu, all continuity checks are spot on excellent condition. Tested fuel pressure again while driving, all 100% correct. Pressure tested the whole inlet circuit to 25psi, only leak point was the pvc, so i disconnected it and am running crank case to atmo (for the purpose of fault finding) The pcv is now fully separate from the engine, check timing is set, tried 15' base and 20' base, proved no different while running. so it has zero intake leaks, Injector bases started to leak air Slightly at 30psi. All electrical is 100%, ecu code is 55 no malfunction. Fuel pressure is 100% in spec. Still idles at 10:1 off scale rich, afrs are all over the place while driving? Wtf its got me stumped?

Like this, done this on the first day of fault finding, thinking it was my problem to start with

Have spoken to previous owner (we keep in contact as he owns my old stagea!) He told me last big service it had, it got timing belt, plugs, splitfire coils (#5 had failed/was failing) Filters, oils, injectors serviced, Few other no engine related jobs. All this was backed up by me actually having a read of the recipts he gave me with it! Im really at a loss for ideas of what's left to check?

The iac valve has a new pipe, as i deleted the air regulator when i removed the rail to inspect the injectors, I tried blocking the pcv pipe but made no difference, i also made sure the valve is checking correctly and free moving.