Bushy

Hi I'm trying to identify which year model my RB25DET gearbox is out of so I can be sure the right parts are ordered for rebuild, I've been told there are some slight variations between years. I don't have a VIN for the car it came out of. Are there any part numbers on the casing or elsewhere that can be used to identify it? Cheers, Michael

Interested in front reo if you will separate and can post

Cool thanks mate

I'm looking for an uncut, not bent R32 GTR front reo bar, with holes for N1 ducts, although I assume they all have these. Send me few photos if you have one. I'm located in Hobart will pay for postage. Cheers, Michael

Keen on R32 lip if not already sold. PM me if available

Have Gktech fan on S2 RB25, stock shroud, temps are great, done many laps with no problems. Only complaint is fan hub is always locked when running, but don't know if that's because of the fan or not.

Yeah I probably could have bought a Hypertune with the money I've spent on it how haha. Clutch is good, pretty heavy and bites hard but I don't mind it, just have to get used to it

Think this is due for an update! So I discovered that the rocker cover breathers were a source of vacuum leak and possibly the PCV, which I believe was the cause of my occasional lean condition at idle. To fix this I fitted some push in -10 alloy breathers (bought off Interloper on here) and 90 deg. push lock fittings. These currently tee together but will eventually be run separately to an alloy catch can. And I replaced the PCV with a new OEM one. End of last year I pulled out the RB20 gearbox and ordered an NPC ceramic button clutch and lightened flywheel, I expected them to arrive within a week but it ended up taking almost two months! This gave me plenty of time to fit a B&M electric line locker...sorry I mean "launch control" And HEL braided brake lines. To be honest I was a little bit disappointed with the front brake lines as they use plastic fasteners where they are secured to the suspension upright, which poorly replicate the standard Nissan fasteners and as a result aren't very well secured, in hindsight I would have replaced with new genuine rubber brake lines. I also got rid of the clutch "dampener" loop and replaced with a single braided line from clutch master to slave cylinder. Eventually the clutch and flywheel turned up and both were fitted along with ARP flywheel bolts. The RB25 gearbox was then mounted, the standard gearbox mount modified to suit, and RB20 tailshaft yolk replaced with RB25 yolk. At the same time a new OEM slave was fitted and Nismo solid shifter. To retain the standard speedo I used the well documented method of fitting the RB25 speedo drive gear to a Navara speedo drive (new from Nissan at ~$60), and lastly the reverse and neutral switch plugs were replaced with the corresponding RB25 ones (I was pleasantly surprised to find both of these available new from www.wiringspecialties.com, but prepare to pay for them!). You will probably notice in the next photo that I had to space the mount down 10mm, because the gearbox hit the top of the tunnel. I will probably remake this at some point a slightly different way to get rid of the spacers. It was pretty exciting to drive it again, and even more exciting to discover that everything worked as it should! I got a few weeks of driving out of it then today I discovered the inlet manifold cracked AGAIN, this time on the underside. So off it came (I'm getting pretty good at this now!) and I took it back to get fixed. After discussing the solution with the fabricator we're pretty confident it won't happen again.

Well done on the power steering solution, I unplugged the solenoid a while ago as it wasn't very consistent so it's currently heavy all the time, I'll definitely be doing that!

Know that feeling of getting messed around by "reputable" businesses! Sounds like you're on track now though

Here's the results of the other cars in my class for the hill climb

Yeah the manifold seems all good so far. Thanks for the feedback on the turbo. Still got the standard turbo, I wound the boost up to 12-13psi which is good amount of power for me at the moment with plans to fit the bigger injectors and tune very soon. I entered a hill climb event on Sunday at Baskerville, car went well apart from me trying to launch 2nd and slipping the clutch haha. Unfortunately I had some stiff competition due to how the classes are defined but I improved my times over the day and I drove it to the track with all my tools in the boot and was stoked to drive it home so I can't complain. I don't think hill climbs are really my thing due to the amount of waiting around between runs, so I'm planning to compete in the Supersprint series next year, whilst keeping the car road registered. There's not many photos but hopefully I'll get hold of some more soon. As a comparison my best time was 40.92 sec and the white STi next to me was running on Bridgestone RE11's with ~230awkw and did 37.66 sec. Plans for the car are new clutch, I've ordered an NPC ceramic button clutch and billet flywheel At the same time I'll be fitting an RB25DET gearbox with Nismo solid shifter Get Nistune, injectors and Z32 AFM fitted, and a tune Replace old rubber brake lines with HEL braided lines New tyres, I'm thinking of trying the Achilles 123S as a compromise to expensive R spec tyres, and I'd like to get more experienced driving the car with a more limited level of grip first

Felt like updating this as I've been inspired by other peoples progress. Not sure if I mentioned it but the inlet manifold cracked again in the same place, and unfortunately the guy who made it moved to the mainland, so with more free time I took it off and took it to another local fabricator who cut out the top piece of sheet and welded in some 3.2mm sheet. With everything back together there is no more flex so hopefully that has finally sorted the issue! I have a strange idle issue that needs sorting where I get an extreme lean idle (~17-20 AFR) and strong fuel smell occasionally after cruising at partial throttle then slowly coming to a stop that seems to resolve itself after driving and stopping again (back to ~14.7 AFR). Haven't really done much diagnosis yet. Still trying to decide what to do power wise and what I actually want to use the car for. I bought a GCG Garrett GT3076R second hand but never used for a good price with the idea of fitting the Hypergear first and if I was happy with that, selling the Garrett as I won't lose any money on it. Anyway, I'm just going to drive it for a bit and see what happens. Here's a photo from today.

Very tidy, nice work!

Thanks mate! Haha yeah that's my brother's, I assume he bought it off you, small world lol (actually it's just Tassie that's small) Yeah will do mate