GTSBoy

I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new. The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.

Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.

Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.

Except for the aero/speedflow adapter option, which is essentially the same thing without the bending and flaring.

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine. That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

Hot plugs not being a good idea in a massively boosted engine?

Put some more sleeve/hose over the top of the brake line for protection and let it rub? Make a plastic or metal nozzle to provide the last little bit of length of duct. The nozzle made to clear the brake line, the cooling air hose shortened to keep it away from the brake line? Make a short hard line to move the end of the brake hose away? (by far the best of the easy options).

I'm not the sort of person to click on a random link to something called files.fm/nrn9something something somehting

That is way too loose. What is the state of the tensioner?

Congrats. Got your asking?

I expect it's just slang from somewhere for a low reading dyno. Probably originates in the US where the inertia dyno is king and some actually might be "heavier" than others.

All of the above posts have valid points!

^ This.