2KR34

Thanks Jason, I'll try Battery world on Tuesday as the usual shops around only have up to 305CCA in the smal terminal batteries. Supercharge also list a bigger battery (450CCA) with the smaller terminals but I'm guessing it will be overkill and overpriced. Cheers, Mark.

If you know someone with a consult cable and software you can open the error page and then do a screen save from the laptop. I'm in Qld so can't help but maybe someone local will help you out.

My battery has died which is not surprising as it came with a puny 305CCA and was second hand as well (typical dealer install). There are no listings for the front mounted battery (import) and the listed battery has the terminal on the wrong side which can't be used without cable changes. I have only found the "Supercharge" brand that has a decent sized battery (450 CCA) with the thin terminals on the correct side and with dimensions that will fit but haven't found any shops that carry them so what are you guys using? Any help appreciated. Mark.

Yeah guys I knew as soon as I posted it that it was a waste of time but after reading a few posts such as where someone asked what was the best oil to use and getting answers like "use this brand cause it's awesome" or "don't use this brand cause it's crap" It frustrated me as these sort of questions are asked as a technical question and I just think that we as forum members should try to answer in a way that will help the person asking the question. I know that this is a public forum and we should expect these sort of answers but that still doesn't stop me from hoping for technical answers based on knowledge.

We are all here to get the best out of our cars and to get and hopefully share knowledge but after spending some time going through various posts It is obvious that many of the replies are total BS and based on hear-say and opinions instead of actual experience or knowledge. Come on guys, it's great to be an active forum member but a lot of guys come here for wisdom but get no better advise that the local teen supercheap salesperson can give. Now I'll get off my soap box and admit that I get more advise here than I could possibly give but I'd rather be of no help that to give bad advise. Please don't confuse personal opinion for actual fact!

Yeah nice car. I don't know if many R34's are selling privately as I have had my 2000 GT-T sedan advertised at 16k and have had no serious interest. Mine is stock and auto so I expect that your manual coupe will get more interest but I assume the problem is that guys can't trade or get finance with a private sale. Checking through the classifieds most dealers prices are into the 20's for stock GT-T sedans but private sales in this range seem to linger for a looooong time. As usual there are plenty of guys wanting these cars but few with cash. Good luck anyway.

I haven't read ALL the posts in this thread so don't know just how expensive the Bosch sensors are but I just wanted to get mine done so got a genuine one through Nissan, took a week and $180 bucks. probably not the cheapest way to go but took about 10 Mins to change over. Borrowed a mechanic buddy's O2 tool and the sensor came with correct plug and even the wire clip down thingy.

Chris posted instructions which I added some pics which may help if you haven't already done the job. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...al-t190825.html

Having had owned a couple of Corvettes I always have a soft spot for them but converting a new or post 96 in now only possible through a RAW and the cost for a sixth gen Vette is around 40K!!!!!!! I converted my 85 Vette myself for about 4 grand (and a stack of hours) when the workshops were charging 15 so when they brought the RAW's in I opted out of the Vette scene as I have better things to do with 40 grand. I know there's a lot more work on the later cars but It would just make me cry to pay 40k to take a perfectly good car then have it pulled apart and butchered and in the end only to have it exactly the same way it was but with the controls on the opposite side. Would much rather spend 40k on mods to a RHD car (if I had 40k that is)!!! Now, wonder what improvements could be done to a new GTR for 40 grand!!!

Thanks!!!

My son reckons that my username sounds perverted even though it is me who does all of the work on his car so can I change it to 2KR34 or 2000R34 or R342K please! Cheers, Mark.

SOLD!

Hi Guys, I have just changed my head unit using Chris rogers how to post but have added a bit more detail and pics for those that need a more visual description. My thanks to Chris for his help on this forum. Hope this helps, Mark. R34 Head unit replacement.

OK I used Chris's instructions and a couple of extra things that he told me about so here is a slightly more detailed description with pics. 1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it. The ashtray just pulls out with no significant force needed. I just pulled on the open lid. 2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin. This takes a bit more force, I pulled from the back near the handbrake and levered it up with my fingers. I also pulled off the shift knob at this time but you could probably do it with it on but I thought it would be easier with it off. There are 2 screws at the front of the knob, put the shifter right back in low to get easier access. It takes a little bit of maneuvering to get the surround over the front of the shifter indicator and be careful not to scratch the vinyl with the hard edges of the surround. Unplug the lighter, lighter surround light and steering wheel shift switch. All plugs have a release tab, push it in or you will get real cranky trying to get em off. 3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prize out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit. This is the panel that houses the 2 vents and the hazard switch. I used some masking tape around the screwdriver to avoid scratching the vinyl when levering. Unplug the plug at rear. 4 - Undo the 2 silver screws at the top of the heater controls. 5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together). I put some toweling over the lower console area to avoid scratching the vinyl. 6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio. I undid a couple of extra screws to "open" up the cage a bit to allow the radio to be removed and the new one installed more easily and without scratching anything. Mine had the aerial adapter already fitted as there was already an aftermarket deck installed but the previous fitter had butchered the wiring loom so it was a bit more work to re-wire all the wires in a decent manner but if you are removing the stock deck then get the correct plug adapters and aerial adapter available from Chris or some auto outlets. I also bundle any wire slack in some padded tape to avoid any rubbing or rattling later on. 7 - Refit going from step 5 back I connected everything up and tried all deck functions before re-fitting the cage permanently just in case but luckily for me all went to plan. Hope this helps, Mark.

Thanks again Chris, Using your original instructions together with your most recent reply I was able to do the job today. As there was an aftermarket unit already fitted it had the antenna adapter but had the original plugs butchered but i soldered/heat shrank all of the new wires and everything works hunky dory. I also added some Sub leads and unit amp switching wire while at it to save pulling the whole thing apart down the track when/if I fit a Sub. I took some pics and was going to add it as a response to your sticky if you don't mind as I know that thick blokes like myself find pics easier to understand. If you were closer to my place and weren't so busy I would have just brought it to you. Thanks again, Mark.