usmair

OS quad won't survive riding the clutch at 1500hp. Not as much as the Sydney boys do anyway. If you need 1000hp then you don't need an 8685. It's a 1400hp turbo. The 7685 is more than enough for 1000-1200hp.

Couple of comments: The 8685 is laggy. You will definitely feel the difference between a 7685. With a manual don't expect anything to really happen before 6,000rpm. You'll probably need to rev to 9,000 to get the most out of the 8685. I've had friends with 8685 and a Samsonos, 3.2 and it is still laggy/doughy. I've had both 8685 and the 8085 and there is certainly a noticeable difference between the two. The 8085 does make slightly more power but my convertor doesn't want to show it.... If it's roll racing then you will need to ride the fk out the clutch to get it on. Make sure you have something that will cop the punishment otherwise you'll get left behind. The direct clutches 9 inch what everyone in Sydney is using and that is taking the punishment. Everyone in Sydney is now using gas to help get out of the hole too. You might need nos. I don't know how long the track is at Perth but you'd want to be comfortable that you have enough track to really use the hp from the 8685. If your main focus is drags and RR where the extra power can be used the go the 8685. There is no chance of putting down 1500hp on the street (not to mention that it is dumb!). If you want an all rounder then you may wish to rethink the 7685.

Oil temp to come up Coolant temps to come up Oil pressure to come down 20w60 oil I'll start driving once oil temp and pressure are within parameters

Yeah I miss my stock bottom end sometimes

But you would have the same issue with a prepped built cast block? Surely you would warm up anything making decent power to its operating temps before driving it. Before going billet, I did the same with my cast Block and that took around 10mins anyway. Billet has actually made the car quiter somehow as well.

Correct, its a 1000hp+ roll racing / weekender. 600hp stock bottom end different story. But even with a cast, 4 digit power levels built motors, you would want to spend a similar amount of time to warm your car up and get it on temp.

Billets are sick. 12 mins mine takes from dead cold to be able to drive. Just start it and go back inside wash your face, brush your teeth, get ready and it'll be good to go. Lighter, stronger, newer. Anyone who says you can't drive it on the street is talking nonsense.

thanks admins

Thank you. Is there a delay perhaps as I can still see them...? Happy to report them again if you like?

Great. Thank you

Admins I have reported some of my historical posts to be deleted as it contains my personal information. Can someone please confirm these requests have been received? And the posts are in the process of being deleted. thank you

A friend had a G35-1050 an RB30. Made 840hp and could not push further due to back pressure. They appear to be better suited to an Rb26 Switched to a 6875 and has made over 1000hp. That's peak power only for a few RPMs, call it 950hp for most of the top end rev range.

they sit really well. i thought id need spacers

The guy you bought them off must be a top bloke 😉

I used to take mine to the gym all the time, then out for a coffee at the local shops. Will definitely be doing it again when it's back on the road