Jump to content
SAU Community

simongilbert

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Profile Fields

  • Real Name
    Simon Gilbert

simongilbert's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Too late for the irridiums. Replaced with platinum plugs gapped at .6mm and new Yellow Jacket coils. AFM has been cleaned and a million other things have been tried. I have a feeling that the lagging, idling, and boost spike are all to do with the same thing. I am doubtful that there is more than one issue causing these issues. The ECU is a Garage Saurus complete replacement plugin. Unfortunately no one here in Perth knows anything about the Garage Saurus gear. As in no body knows how to access the ecu to re map. I have a feeling thats what it needs..... Thanks for your help anyway. I will have a look at a few more things. Do you know of anyone anywhere in australia that I could call to pick brains?? I have called most performance places here in Perth.....they all say the same thing, get a Power FC.....but I am not confident on spend $1500 on a Power FC until I know that the turbo or motor aren't shagged. Low compression can cause rough base idle.....yet to do a compression test. Pffft.....stupid R33!! Goes hard but this is frustrating!!
  2. Could the AAC cause boost spike?? If it was failing?? I am working on an R33 at the moment and it seems to idle rough on and off. Get it idling smooth then 10 minutes later its idling like balls.....along with the rough idle I also have intermittent idle hunting after boost. Comes down to almost stall and then picks up again. Does it about 2 times then idle sets again. So couldthe AAC be a possibility?? when I say boost spike too I mean I get alot of lag then all of a sudden a major boost. Very hard to control and very unpredictable.
  3. Hi, My mate has an R33 Gts-T. The car has a bosch 600hp fuel pump, Garrett 2540 turbo, blitz BOV, trust intercoler setup, elec. boost controller, and a Garage Saurus ECU....... My question is this: Are Garage Saurus ECU's straight plug in's?? Or are they just remapped factory ECU's?? As I have recently figured out a nagging turbo issue with this vehicle I am wondering if the ECU will adjust or change certain aspects itself. I thought after sorting the turbo and boosting issues out that I would do some diagnostics as the car is not idling well. Found a diag forum on SAU and decided to try it. Pulled ECU out only to find 3 things missing: 1: 2xIndicator LED's and 2: Idle Adjustment Screw. You can actually see on the board where these things should be yet they are absent. So would this mean the entire ECU has been changed?? I would have though that if it was just a remapped factory ECU then these things would have still been on there. Also there is zero signs of the ECU having ever been Nissan oriented eg. no part number stickers, no Nissan badging anywhere. Does Garage Saurus or did they sell/make complete swap ECU?? If somebody could help me out with this so I can tell Tenagah here in Perth when it goes for a dyno. Also put my mind at ease as its a real headache trying to figure out why the car won't idle properly now. Cheers, Simon.
  4. Turbo: HKS GT2540 46T Max 30.1 PSI Limited by Compressor Wheel Speed Bov: Blitz Flutter Intercooler: T-Trust (Its a bigone) Boost Control: HKS EVC Exhaust: Definitely High Flow still not sure of brands Boost Gauge: Factory Cluster Gauge and T-Sport Gauge with Max 30PSI Engine: RB25DET Year: 1996 Fuel: High Flow/Fast Flow Bosch ECU: HKS2540 46T Installed by Garage Saurus Injectors: Can't really tell but do look aftermarket. So lads here is some more information for you. Thanks in advance......a carton is on its way for whoever solves this problem!!
  5. How would I be able to tell if it is high flow. HaHa....before we blow it.......if we havent already. But I think turbo is stil in perfect condition. At the moment due to our lack f boost its not going to be at all possible to blow.
  6. Um fairly certain it isn't a stock turbo. I think it has stainless steel blades. definitely not ceramic blades. All blades are still intact and turbo spools up just fine. It was regularly running 15 psi. And if we wnated some fun we would bost it up to 19. It lost traction in fourth......nice car. Anyway I can get some more specific specs for you. I wil see my mate to day and will get all the goods. The whole car has been worked by some asian bloke in sydney. MY mate flew there to buy it. I am not sure but I think that the motor may have had work done also. Thanks for your replies. Will get back to you.
  7. Hi ppl, I am ripping my hair out at this point. After having spent hours trying to figure this problem out and a few hours of research on google I am still at a loss. I am not the full bottle on turbos and am really in need of some help as I would like to save a mate some money. Here is the problem....... We have stock boost pressure e.g. We are still managing to boost to 7.5-8psi which as I beleive is the stock boost. But the second stage is totally missing. We had previously had the car up around 19psi and even clocked the 20 mark once or twice. REgularly it is running at 15 psi but it can easily take the 19-20's. Here is what happened and also what I have already covered. I will also include what the vehical has as it is fairly modded. I can get more specific with the brands and anything else you guys may need eg. photos ect. Whatever you need to help me solve this. The Scenario: My mate stopped in for fuel (using 98) everything was working fine. Started the car and instantly noticed a difference in the motors sound. But just a lack of boost and also the air filter started making a heavy sucking sound as if it was blocked. What the car has: Aftermarket frontmount intercooler High Flow Pod Filter High Flow Cat with 2.5 exhaust and high flow muffler HKS Electronic Controlled boost valve with three stage setting HIGH LOW and MANUAL (Manual setting is what cranks this bad boy to over 19psi) Nice set of fat 17's with new rubber Manual with heavy duty clutch Imported from Japan with only 48k on the clock. High flow fuel pump for extra boost Decent branded BOV (Forgot to check Brand) Its a flutter valve too. Motor in good shape (Not blowing smoke or using oil) What I have done so far: Cleaned Air Filter Romoved all intake pipes Checked blades on turbo-all good Checked turbo movement-all good Checked wastegate actuator-seemed slightly hard to move to me but I don't actually know how hard they have to work to move. I replaced a few hoses that werent in to great shape Checked wastegate movement-all good Boost valve seems to be operating as normal-could be wrong Thats about all I have done. So any help with some more test I could do or maybe if someone has had the same or similar problem that would be great. My mates car is a weapon and its a shame to see such a nice car going to waste. I am a commodore lover and even I want to fix this thing cause its such a great car to drive in. Probably the only turbo I would every buy oh unless it was a VL Calais ;P Cheers ppl, Simon.
×
×
  • Create New...