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PM-R33

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    Townsville

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    2003 E46 M3
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    Phil

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  1. That's nothing Levy, check this one out! It's the most ridiculous expensive wax in the world! www.attention-to-detail.com.au/product/polish-angel-goldfinger Like my description? Haha
  2. I believe so depending on what you want It depends what is important to you I guess. The main benefit is the scratch resistance since that can't be reproduced with anything else. So in black cars swirl marks are always going to happen unless you are extremely careful with how you wash your car (most of the general public aren't but obviously on a car enthusiast forum like this a large majority are fussy about their car). The added hardness from the coating makes swirl marks nearly a thing of the past as long as you are a little bit smart with washing. For a person that absolutely loves detailing cars and wants to be in the garage every few months all day long, then using high end waxes and such is fun and rewarding so a coating might not be necessary as you probably aren't getting the full benefits. With me, I have a black 2014 Mazda 3 SP25 that my partner uses as a daily and isn't taken care of as much as it should, so for this I did a Mohs+ coating and it is fantastic for it since I know it is completely protected, easy to keep looking good and I don't need to clean it as often. For my M3 I barely drive it and always try keeping it looking as best as I can. I like trying new products that suppliers send me and always do test panels to see how product A goes against product B. I'm extremely fussy with how I wash it and it is dark grey so for my car I like using waxes/sealants. If I didn't have the Mazda as well, I probably would have done a coating but this way I can show customers both vehicles if they want to see real world differences. Check out her black Mazda 3 here: www.attention-to-detail.com.au/project-gallery/mazda3paintcorrection The gloss and depth I got out of that was simply breathtaking but took my a week to do. Either way I always recommend a coating to a customer because it is so different to waxes and sealants and is true modern day technology. Understandably the cost of $600-$800 that I charge might not be for every ones budget, but I still think it is a bargain given what it does.
  3. To get technical Modesta is a coating, not a sealant Modesta is the same patented Japanese technology as what we do under the Gyeon range. Extremely good stuff that lasts for years. This is my write up on the Gyeon Mohs + system but basically applies the same to Modesta BC-03 I've been thinking of offering Modesta as well just in case some people prefer one over the other. www.attention-to-detail.com.au/what-are-gyeon-quartz-cloth-coatings
  4. Hmmm applying a sealant over a wax is the exact opposite of what you are meant to do..... With stacking, you always put the most durable product as your base and least durable as your top. Sealants also require a squeaky clean surface to bond to, this is why you are meant to always do an IPA wipe down of the surface before applying. So having a sealant try to bond to a Carnauba, Montan or Beeswax based wax normally doesn't go to well. I personally haven't played with the Zaino stuff (but I am aware of their range) and the ZCS is meant to be the same as what Nanolex Spray Sealant is which I have plenty of experience in. Very strange...
  5. If you feel like a read, this is an article I wrote about waxes, sealants and coatings with regards to durability and their properties. www.attention-to-detail.com.au/waxes-sealants-and-coatings-explained/
  6. Haha well if I'm ever in Canberra i'll hit you boys up
  7. Nu Finish is junk, simple as that. If you want something that lasts a good amount of time, Duragloss Bonding Agent and then Duragloss Wet Look Sealant over the top is regarded as one of the longest lasting sealant combos available. I do this combination on a lot of clients vehicles since being in NQ I need to give customers something that will last in our extreme climate. Collinite is a good product but is still a hybrid wax (mixture of sealant and carnauba) so won't last as long as a true synthetic polymer. Other options would be looking into coatings like Nanolex, Gyeon, Dodo Juice Supernatural Infinity Coating etc. Also comes down to what you want to spend
  8. I do headlight restorations all the time and for an off the shelf kit, the INVISION one is probably the best one out there as it gives you everything you need, and most importantly a proper UV coating to go over the headlights. If something proper isn't put on the headlights they will quickly start to go yellow again. The best process is multiple stages of wet sanding to remove all imperfections from the headlight, multiple stages of machine polishing to remove the sanding marks and then applying a properly bonding UV agent (I use Gyeon Trim). Good luck
  9. Callan if you could get two or three cars organised over a week period it would definitely be something I would consider
  10. Ah ok got ya Ben haha. Yes the roof was extremely thin. Obviously been polished a few times in its life. I dare say it has under 15 micron of clear coat left so I didn't dare remove to much even though a few deep water marks still remained. Better to have a few water marks that you need to squint to look at then to have clear coat failure lol.
  11. What do you mean Ben? On the 50/50 photos? I thought it was quite obvious.
  12. Thanks guys Yes Menzerna compounds and polishes are definitely my favourite.
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