MBS206

Never run out of power with all those power points? Ha! Electrics need upgrade, you're missing 3 Phase... Please call when 3 phase is sorted before I have to setup a single to 3 phase to run the lathe...

On a 20amp run, on "12V", if you're getting power for the pump direct from battery in the boot, you should be good on 12AWG. If the wiring is from up front, you want to get to a 10awg.

Seconding Taipan. Either alternator is worn out, and dieing, or you've added some hectic load and it can't keep up. Also, you say "the fuel pump wiring is handling 20amp", how do you know? Have you put a current meter inline? The fuel pump will be wanting 20amp at a set load, at a set voltage, as that load, is what pushes the resistance electrically for the fuel pump (an unloaded electric motor, in theory draws zero amps). Now if you've got the load, but less volts, you've got less amps, which means less torque, so the pump won't run as quick. Add in, all wire has resistance, if you get 0.25ohm resistance in your wire in total, and run 20amp through it, you have 4v drop in the wiring alone. That means on a 12V supply, your pump now only sees an 8V potential across it, not the preferred 12V. If your pump is meant to draw 20a at 12V, that gives it an impedance of 0.6ohms, add in another 0.25ohms, in wiring, and realistically, your pump is now only actually getting 14amps, at about 8.4v... Let's say wiring is perfect, and we expect 14.4V output from the alt, and that is giving you your 20amp pull. Then your pump has an impedance of 0.72ohm. now let's say your alt is cactus, and only giving 13V out, now we've dropped to 18amps. If we claim flow to be linear as we alter voltage, then we've lost 10% of your flow. The above is to indicate, unless you've measured current, you've no idea what it's really getting, only what it's rated for at a given voltage. Shove a multimeter at the battery positive with one prob, and then on the positive feed into the fuel tank with he other probe, check out what the DC voltage is. That alone is giving you your voltage drop from battery to fuel tank lid.

If it's an original "dumb" style alternator, you should be seeing your voltage running, in the 14s A healthy lead acid, charged, is 12.8V, so if your engine is running, and you're seeing 12.8V, you have issues. If you're at 13V, you have very little power going back into the battery. I'm going to guess you probably need better wiring to the fuel pump too, as I bet you have a voltage drop on your wiring to the pump too, and it's probably seeing sub 12V

Except Hondas normally don't need to worry about someone behind them...

You'll end up hating the BRZ... Again...

I'm sorry, but @Duncan has alluded to the solution already. Make it look like it goes to a catch can, but vent it directly to the ground behind the rear wheels. Guy behinds problem now

I think the problem you're likely to see, is oil separating while in the tube, and accumulating in it, and then you'll end up with an air lock effectively. That is the main concern I feel will occur. So may not happen immediately, and main tell will be motor appearing to be awesome as catch can has no / very very little oil accumulating in it.

So you'll now accept a non yellow Suzuki Swift?

Also, meant to say, on the EV side of things, the weight part is definitely an issue regarding EV acceleration, but oddly, if you're smart, you can get the car to handle REALLY well. All that weight, is mounted stupidly low. Also, how awesomely you can get a 50/50 weight balance properly! And you might not have all the power in a straight line, dayum, you can make some ground up in a corner with low CG and better weight balance! Oh, add to that, companies now starting to do EV Cars with quick swap batteries, like the way bike companies have done EV bikes. Would be a good setup for track days, and even endurance races, just need some better cooling for longevity of power... Also the 10/15 minute session and charge for 45/50 minutes could work if the race tracks had some normal 3 phase chargers. Even better if they had a HUGE charger like the BP Servos do...

It's easier to get the Barra to fit, than an LS. There's more room to fit the exhaust past the steering column with a Barra, then there is with the LS. Engine fits in with a radiator, it's "tight" but not really any tighter than some modern cars these days. While you talk about making RB power, the part most people don't really notice, is the amount of torque they make. They make power lazily like the LS does. IE, look at a Barra NA motor from a BA, makes only a couple of KW less than an RB25DET, EXCEPT, it also makes an extra 100nm of torque. Barra makes power, lower in the power band. If you make the same amount of power in motor A at 5,000RPM, as you are at 6500RPM in motor B, (Barra A, RB B in general), than that is already showing an additional 30% torque, as you're passing 5,000RPM. When you also match the barra gearboxes, and retain skyline diffs, you end up with even more fun, as you end up with some pretty short ratios But yes, after having an LS in the engine bay, and a Barra in the engine bay of the same car, yep, the Barra is definitely easier to drop a Barra in. Plus, not many twits on this forum would put an LS in and then not add two turbos into it However, there's also less twits on this forum who'd put a Barra in and not turbo it either.... But I think we found both of them

The low down on this is, it's not terribly hard. Mine isn't finished as I don't have money to drop, or when I have money, I don't have time (I don't pay people to play cars for me). But if you have the money: Engine mounts are available off the shelf. I made my own, to get the engine even lower. The mounts aren't expensive. Gearbox mounts for 6 speed ford box are available off the shelf. For about $1,500 a custom wiring loom can be built for you (I modified my own factory Ford one) - Hootons Harnesses is my recommendation here. For about $400 someone will unlock the ECU for you. For about $100 you can get a bolt in accelerator pedal bracket. You will need a new radiator, or to modify an alloy skyline radiator. You need good thermo fans and a shroud made (electric fans). You'll need a custom tail shaft made. $1000-$1500? You'll need custom intake made, and a custom exhaust. You'll need a FMIC setup and intake piping to suit as part of the above. Custom PS lines, few hundred $$$ Then you need an engine and gearbox, these are not what they were worth when I bought mine, and I haven't looked super recently, but for an FG XR6T with Y speed manual, plan for a minimum of $5k, for second hand, 200k km + motors. Yep, expect to be looking at rebuilding the motor. Oh, and if you've gotten this far, and spent probably close, or over $10k in parts (before an engine rebuild, of which you should do a few mods to that motor even if you don't rebuild it) if you can't do the work yourself, throw another $10k in labour in, and then expect to have lifelong issues. Personally, the Barra fits and is easier than an LS swap. However, if you're looking for the "best" motor you can swap in, and not a budget limit, no BS, I'd 100% start looking at crate EV motors... Until you drive a decent EV, you've no idea how quickly they'll obliterate an ICE engine in a straight line and around a curve. However, don't expect to be able to do heaps and heaps of laps at a track day, as batteries will warm, and the control unit will lower power output when they get hot. However, daily driving, long term ROI, and avoiding potential issues with old ICE car tax in the future, it's a great plan! But an EV swap will suck the life and soul out of your skyline...

I can make it bright yellow for about $50 in Rattle Can paint. Then, in reality, it'll be like the yellow M&M. Yellow on the outside, black underneath! I actually washed it yesterday so I can advertise it. I really should write the advert now and post it, ha ha

Nah, I'm happy with just cash, I don't need two zinger burgers too, happy to help a fellow SAU'er out...

Can trade for 2010 Suzuki Swift Sport, cash my way. I know what I have...