D_Stirls

From this picture showing the mounting flange of a NISMO cooler bracket this is the way i believe they flow. Oil Pump Gallery>Bottom Line>Oil Cooler>Top Line>Filter>Main Gallery http://s430.photobucket.com/user/shibbeler/media/RB26DETT%20Swap/2010-01-24/DSC_3983.jpg.html EDIT!! This picture shows the top (filter) flange, it clearly shown the top line returns to the input side of the filter (with the centre being the return to the main gallery). http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq27/shibbeler/RB26DETT%20Swap/2010-01-24/DSC_3984.jpg The thread the pictures were coming from; http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23857&page=16

Why don't you pull the welsh plug out and tap a thread in there. The casting would be the same it's just the N/A housings wouldn't have been tapped.

I was going to ask this, beat me too it.

A T67 and a TD06SL2 run the same turbine and generally the turbine and shaft are matched, where did you hear that the centre shaft diameters are different? As far as i'm aware a T67 and a TD06SL2-25G are two different names for the same turbo with maybe only the housings being different. Regarding the OP +3 on looking at the wastegate/actuator EDIT!! Well what do you know there are two different shaft diameter version of the SL2 turbine that vary by 1mm. There is a listing for a TD06SL2-20G (9mm) and then the T67-25G (10mm) listing, it seems that they match the centre shaft to the compressor not the turbine. Also I thought that there was only one SL2 Wheel and that it had 9 blades, they are showing an 11 blade version as well? http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/mitsubishi-3.aspx

Do people think the blocking of the new filters is due to the ethanol cleaning all the years of petroleum gunk out of the fuel system, i.e. contamination that isn't soluble in fuel now being removed by the ethanol? If so then it would be advisable to do 2 or 3 filter changes when you switch.

What are the valves like, i would have thought that if there was enough contact to gouge the piston that the valves would have been bent?

Whats wrong with a CA?

Correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't the GT2540 have a 76mm compressor, aka a Garrett GT2876? This turbo was a bit of a miss match as the tiny 53.8mm NS111 turbine wheel couldn't produce enough drive to spin the compressor effectively. The other issue the large compressor caused was choking the tiny turbine, i'm assuming that you would have a 0.86 housing so that would help. The GT2871 is a slightly better matched turbo but you won't seen much gain from switching. If you really want to swap switch to one of the GT30 series turbos, they are a much better match for a 2.5 litre. I would suggest a GT3071 (even a GTX3071 for mid to low 300's), or as Ryan suggested a TD06-20G if you want to move away from Garrett.

Hey Mate, Did you get my PM? An error message came up after I sent it so I'm not sure if it got through. Also does that cryptic phone number have enough digits? I count 9? Dale

Manual (covers software on page 8); http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTX-L_Manual_1.1.pdf Software; http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/downloads/LogWorks3Setup.exe

Can anyone figure out where the scam is going to come in here. I'm selling my ranger ute and i know i'm being scammed because of the language that they are using but i can't figure out how the scam is going to work;

The lower the profile the higher the pressure, for a 30 profile tyre 40psi is about right

Luke i think your thinking of the spigot bearing that sits in the end of the crank and the end of the input shaft runs inside it. The thrust bearing is on the bearing that rides on you input shaft and it what pushes (or in the case of a pull type clutch, pull) the "fingers" on the clutch when you press your pedal. Regardless both parts are worth bugger all but it is a gearbox out job so would there's a fair bit of labour involved. I would take the mechanics recomendation and wait until your clutch is stuffed and do them together becasue the labour cost will be the same. It won't damage anything but if you end up with a scretching noise when you press the pedal then the bearing has colapsed and you will then need to change it. Having said that the symptoms that you have described don't sound like thrust bearing to me as that would have no effect on pedal feel. Your thoughts about the clutch booster sound more on the money to me. The other thing it could be is a broken pivot point for your clutch leaver. I have had the same thing happen to my car and after month of not figuring out what it was eventualy (on an SAU cruise) i put my foot and the pedal and the clutch didn't engage which led an emergency pit stop at windies lookout. Ended up driving the car through the hills back to Campbelltown with no clutch which was a lesson in matching revs on gear change.

They do it so you can "secure" the boot. If you have the popper in the glove box and lock the glove box it makes it harder to access the boot and means that if they get in the car they don't necessarily get into the boot.

If it's never idled right i'd be looking at the tune, especially running E85. There's a bit of an art form in getting e85 cars to idle right.