Dose Pipe Sutututu

Anything but Innovate, their heater circuit strategy is terrible so you end up torching wideband sensors (not too sure if this is still the case, but those MTX-L ones were notorious for eating sensors). Or if you're already on the Haltech ecosystem, their canbus wideband kits are a no brainer. Sending data via canbus not a 0-5V range to the ECU not to mention if the sensor does die, just buy a Bosch LSU sensor and wire it back in, simples.

please don't do this, worse advice! Just go for a normal drive, then eventually start to introduce load - don't be shy. Fuel Feed -> Fuel Filter -> Rail -> FPR -> (I think your car has an OEM dampener) -> Return to tank

you would be with the boost coming in hard & fast, do you run a proper LSD in the back? If not, time to invest in a proper LSD. The viscous one is terrible for putting power down or doing anything motorsport related.

You'll find motors that foul plugs quickly aren't because of running rich on boost but rather the rest of the MAP (vacuum to atmospheric) is garbage and/or the O2 feedback strategy is either disabled or is utter horse shit. If you're not cruising and idling at stoich, but rather rich, you'll be going through spark plugs faster.

Put a wideband O2 on your car, extremely valuable data. Stops the guessing & assumptions.

Dead stock tune, if you slap a wideband O2 on them, you'll see it hits high 10s. Black smoke is fine, keeps things cool.

ever seen a stock Evo with a 4G63T and just a high flow cat & cat back on boost? It's a smoke screen!

Hence they rather copy / paste a tune with similar mods from a previous car as a base, not to mention all the tables are scaled how the tuner likes it. And in the odd event, the car has like for like mods as the file they have on hand, even better! Means less work. I once did 2x S15s with GTX2867R turbos, same 980cc injectors, one had Procams & broken VTC, one had Poncams and working VTC. Did I start from scratch? hell no.

Why? They will still charge you for a full tune.

Yes, here's a scenario. Say your original tune by Tuner A has been done, with the wrong injector data, wrong sensor scaling, base timing not synced properly. Tuner B then hops on, fixes up the cock ups and now realises the fuel table & timing tables are pretty much invalid. Easier for them to copy and paste a known working tune from a similar car they've done in the past with similar mods, then tune/calibrate accordingly

I am, however I "believe" (not 100% sure) that the RB25 returns the turbo water line there too, that branch then flows into the heater core. I've had it plumbed like than before with the old motor, and also this motor (same turbo) and it hasn't seized yet lol. And yes, using that RB26 fitting seems very counter intuitive as you're going opposite to the flow. However you would assume there's higher pressure coming out of the turbo due to the pipe size, heat etc. I might need to revisit the service manual.

Like all the AMGs around where I live, 100k+ car, Bing Bong tyres on them.

Anyone seen my rich long lost biological parents? If so, tell them I wouldn't mind my mortgage paid off and a M3 Wagon as a way to ask for forgiveness 🤣 I'll even give, in return a R33 Skyline (that may or may not work).

Probably telling you to get BKR6ES Easier to get BCPR6ES or 7 is you're making moderate power. Been using them for years in my own car, other people's cars. I might be wrong, however those cars work well and have no issues. As a matter of fact, a S15 I helped build and tune did a 1m46s at SMSP last night on sticky street tyres.

Had a brief spare 10 mins spare in my life, went to compress up the coolant system (thanks to my mates gear) and found the leak pretty quick. It's that stupid short joiner between the block and coolant branch that goes to the turbo return. So I'm going to simplify that area and use a R33 RB26 piece, which does the same thing without the unnecessary complications And yeah before someone goes why don't you buy/install the Boost Doc heater line kit, yeah cost perspective it's like 5x the price of buying new hoses and a new OEM fitting. If the hoses lasted 28 years, then I'm sure brand new OEM ones will do another 28 years 🥲 Will also delete the hardlines that runs underneath the plenum and simplify that too. It has a RB26 so there are a few branches that are blocked off as the plenum doesn't need those hoses and not to mention the car doesn't run a heat and oil/water exchanger anymore.