roolis

its the same,there were no DE or DET mafs,only different specs.like Green label is S1,Pink label is S2 and so on

yes,still no squiters,i will install them only in a moment if i have to strip all engine out

Rb25de from 25det main difference is CR,if you change pistons,you will have det,except no oil squiters,head is 100%same,rods also the same,did the same for my DE,but i put det pistobs with rb26 rods,cause they are stronger,i am pushing 500hp on my setup,with Tonei cams,N1 oil pump,and be sure to install crank collar if you will dismantle your engine.I pushed 350hp with 1bar boost with stock DE,untill 2nd cylinder ringland failed,so its up to you,if you go over that,you need upgrades

whats the difference if its auto or manual,you only need Turbo ECU thats ment for auto

i have manual for R33.So i just need to make plug mirror type,but why in some places is written about triggers pins changing places?what is that for?

hello guys,who has 100% answer,not the internet search one,about repining of CAS.I need to repin R33 Mitsubishi Cas to R34 Neo Hitachi Cas,i found several answers,so which one is the correct one?Most common answers are that R34 Hitachi Cas plug is the mirror type of Mitsubishi one,is it prooven?Alot guys write,that some CAS'es need trigger wires switched,while power and ground are same,can somebody confirm one or another?

bought it and took it apart,so thats what we have its defo Nismo lsd,it was set to 2 way,so i will change it to 1.5 way just one difference,no lock adjustment bolt as in topic that i have shared before

after more searching,i found this https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/412098-nismo-diff-home-install-pics.html and it looks realy same,as for a lot of googling,only Nismo ones have like fabric welding on the end of lsd,where you see such dark line,othe machined ones are shiny all the way,like Kaaz If its exactly the one,then its very good for me,cause i even want to make it 1.5 with medium lock

Just got offered R200 diff,i know that its 4.08 ratio diff,it came from S14,but seller cant tell what brand is that 2 way LSD,anybody can tell what brand it is?by Google it looks close to Nismo,but not sure,thats all the pictures i got:

why to post if you dont have any advice in this case?

tell me at least one good reason why it had to?usually engines blow up because of lean a/r,too much boost and detonation held for too long,how can such ecu effect blow off?its only richer fuel map,boost and fuel cut eliminated. Ok,end of story,i got nothing here,but few guys contacted me on other forum and they shared their experience with that ecu,even one of them asked me to inform,when i will replace it with standalone,so he can buy it from me,good luck,dont blow your engines,while playing NFSU

personaly you,how many cars you have boosted?i think none,just sitting to laptop and talking how to live,i deserve that car more than you for sure,cause normal guys told me good advices,so i dont see any point of beeing in this forum,cause i am good in cars,just started this topic to get some experience with exact ecu,not to ask your permision to live,even by that,i wont tell full results of Dyno,that was made this morning and by the way,it went much better,than i expected and i already got answer from Blitz,what that Ecu is made for,so leave your bullshit to yourself,cause all your advices without experience are worseless,go and do something in garaze,not in your chear by the pc,PEACE

So you call all these profesional guys that installed this gauge stupid? Interesting, you even dont know how they are good and you talk like this.Gauge is set correct way, i am 100% sure, they know their job.You should know, that in drift,guys run fuel maps at least 11 a/f ratio, to avoid detonation, and our a/r is around 11.5/12 on fool load, I am really sure that its not too rich, we run our other cars same way with standalone, other thing, when you use car only as a daily. Pinging, I dont know that word, can you explain?

i dont think that its a noob question to ask if somebody had any experience with such ecu,to share experience.Detonation gauge we use is from pro race,a lot of guys in my country use it in profesional sport,so i trust it 100%.With rich fuel,i mean,that we already see,that fuel map in this ecu is set for more fuel,so basicly its always good in hard driving to be in safe A/F ratio

what you mean?the car was runing very good,he has all wideband stuff and gauges in the car,so we see,that A/F ratio is very good,its even more rich,than with stock ecu,what is good and safe,detonation gauge shows no signs of detonation,we are not noobies in the cars,so dont think that we are doing everything blind