chez00

Should have mentioned: RS4S manual.

Hello, Anyone got any idea what the drain plug thread size is on the Stag transfer case? Don't have one in the shop to check. Cheers for any help.

The shaft will pop out if you don't fit another one, and yeah will leak oil along with other dramas.

I wouldn't consider swapping the input shaft unless it was designed for you gearbox. Tooth profiles would all vary between manufacturers and you could run into a lot of trouble if you got it wrong. In shot peening's defence, yes it's a surface treatment. So is pretty much any other process we use to make metal stronger and more fatigue resistant. That's because the vast majority of crack formation occurs on the surface. Pretty much every aerospace component is shot peened for this reason and is testament to the process's effectiveness. I'd be surprised if Quaife didn't shot peen gears anyway to be honest. The REM process can be done to the entire gear set to reduce friction, reduce heat in the oil and so on. If you have a look on the remchem website there are a bunch of SAE papers proving the effectiveness of the process. There are some "stress relieving" characteristics as a result of the process too. A large spline option would be best though.

PPG do a billet mainshaft with the Chevy splines, but obviously won't suit your 6 speed. Have you contacted Quaife to see what they have? We shot peen and Isotropic Superfinish (REM) components to improve fatigue resistance, and may be a good solution whether you stick with the standard shaft or get one fabricated. If you want more info on the technology have a look at our website: www.neategearboxes.com.au

Palmside have it stitched here in Australia. It's absurd Quaife don't have an official distributor in Australia - shipping from the South Island is stupid. Quaife have never responded to any of my requests to open up a trade account for the record. I'd shop in the States. I've never understood why Quaife are cheaper in the US than the UK. Bigger market blah blah but seriously it still makes no sense.

I can organise them for you. What ratio are you after? Maybe PM with what you need and we'll go from there.

Lots of guys into drift run a 2 way but either will suit your purposes really. All of the above-mentioned brands would be fine as they are tried and tested. Kaaz have good support and make all the clutches etc. available for rebuild if it becomes worn out down the track, unsure about availability of the others.

The stock centre plate of the RB25/6 gearbox can flex in high torque, high grip situations such as aggressive launches or high speed cornering. When it flexes the shafts (mainshaft and countershaft) come out of alignment and the gears destroy each other. The billet centre plate improves case rigidity. It's basically a full rebuild to install, so would be done with a bearing and seal refresh as a minimum, check synchros etc.

I'm in adelaide and do all above mentioned work. 0407698682

Was also thinking a billet centre plate in the gearbox is not a bad idea. This would prevent shock loading and shaft separation in the gearbox on hard launches at Collingrove. I see you're in Adelaide - feel free to contact us if you'd like any further info.

^parts prices only, right? The quaife front LSD goes for around $1850 without install or bearings or seals. The setup Piggaz has suggested would give a great setup for OPs application though.

What are you after exactly in a kit? Bearings and seals? I can help - PM me car details and I'll quote you up.

Drop the tailshaft and turn the gearbox yoke independently. Then do the same for the diff. Work out where the problem is, because it can be deceiving when it's all hooked up. I'd agree that it sounds like you've got too much backlash in the diff. There's not a whole lot in the gearbox which would cause a delay to take up, unless you're missing teeth or something.

That's a good idea, interested in how this develops - the SR20 box has the same issue too. I'll have a look when I'm in the workshop tomorrow but perhaps there's a way of going to some sort of spring and key in the hub, rather than the clip arrangement (I can't quite picture the setup at the moment)? I know it would be a bit of machining but may be worth it if it's a recurring issue.