Jump to content
SAU Community

Buyer's Guide - The Nissan C34 Stagea


GoldZilla

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

As I've mentioned in previous threads, here is a "STICKIED" link to all your Stagea buying tips on what to look for, and most of the stuff you will find useful in making your choices!

Anyone can add to the thread, and I will make an effort to regularly add all of the most important stuff to this first post so potential buyers don't have to read the whole lot to get the information they need. Oh, and if I get something wrong, please let me know...

So, here goes:

BODYWORK AND CHASSIS

Check for:

* Rust and/or paint bubbling and peeling under the door wing mirrors;

* Rust around the strut towers, where the strut tower brace is bolted down;

* Rust and/or paint bubbling and peeling in and around the sunroof runners (if fitted with a sunroof);

* Condition of door seals and rust where the seals attach to the body;

* Rust on the door and boot hinges;

* Rust in the spare wheel cavity...

Body Dimensions:

* Exterior Dimensions (LxWxH), mm: 4800 x 1755 x 1495

* Wheel base, mm: 2720

* Track (F/R), mm: 1460 / 1515

* Ground clearance, mm: 145

* Curb vehicle weight, kg: 1620-1660

* Seating capacity, persons: 5

* Doors number: 5

* Min.turning radius, m: 5.3

* Fuel tank capacity, l: 68

ENGINE & DRIVELINE

Check for:

* Is the colour of the oil a really dark brown? (Worse still, if it's whitish, see the next point) If the oil is dark brown and really thick instead of smooth and runny, then it may indicate that it hasn't been changed in a while, or that there is excessive engine wear.

* Water in the oil (is the oil under the cap milky and white, instead of a darkish brown? This could indicate a blown head gasket, or worse);

* Bubbles in the radiator fluid (obviously, check this when the engine is still cold, usually just after you've started it);

* Is the idle smooth? This could be a minor issue with some loose/damaged vacuum hoses, but it also could be a lot worse...

Engine Specs - Series I (1996 - July 1998). This is for the 25t RS-Four, as the most commonly seen version here in Australia:

* RB25DET engine, 2.5 litres, DOHC, 24-valve, turbocharged, same basic specs as a series II R-33 Skyline GTS25t;

* 173kW @ 6400rpm, 275Nm @ 4800rpm - figures quoted are at the flywheel;

* E-AT Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter;

* ATESSA-ETS electronically-controlled four wheel drive... There was no manual option in the Series I.

Engine Specs - Series II (August 1998 - 2001). Once again, this is for the 25t RS-Four.

* RB25DET Neo engine, 2.5 litres, DOHC, 24-valve, turbocharged, same basic specs as an R-34 Skyline GTt;

* 206kW @ 6400rpm, 333Nm @ 3200rpm (or 343Nm @ 3200rpm in RS-Four S manual) - figures quoted are at the flywheel;

* E-ATx Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter; or

* M-ATx E-AT Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter and Tiptronic function; or

* 5-speed manual

FACTORY FEATURES AND OPTIONS

All Stageas have:

* Power windows;

* Power mirrors (including a fold-in feature for parking in tight spaces);

* Driver's and Passenger's SRS airbags;

* Roof rails;

* Reclinable and fold-down (by use of a nifty handle in the luggage bay) rear seats, with a centre fold-down arm rest;

* Climate control air-conditioning;

* Electronic odometer and dual trip-meters;

* Various hooks and tie-down points in the luggage bay so your cargo doesn't go flying around;

* Tilt-adjustable steering column;

* 12v lighter socket in the rear luggage area;

* Leather steering wheel;

* Front fog lamps;

* Front, variable intermittent windscreen wipers;

* Rear window wiper;

* Front spoiler;

* UV-cutting glass (front doors and windscreen) - all models;

* Dual cup-holders in the dashboard;

* Keyless entry;

Commonly fitted Optional Extras include:

* Front centre arm rest, some of which can be opened towards either the driver or passenger;

* Luggage bay roll-out cover;

* Luggage bay safety net;

* Privacy glass (rear doors and rear luggage area) - RS models and above;

* Dual sunrooves (front one is tilt and slide, rear is a slide-only);

* Electric, self-closing rear door (boot)...

Other, less common Stagea Optional Extras include:

* Leather seats and interior trims;

* Electric seats (only available with the leather option)...

* Extra 12v bayonet-style sockets on the left side of the luggage area, the inside of the luggage area door and the D-pillar for bayonet-fit accessories such as a torch, etc.;

* Limited Slip Differential (manual RS Four S models)

CHASSIS CODES

Model:......................Driveline:...............Engine:..............Chassi

Code:

RS Four S..................AWD manual..........RB25DET Neo......WGNC34

RS Four V..................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS Four.....................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS............................RWD......................RB25DET............WGC34

25X Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25G Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25X..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

25G..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

20G..........................RWD.......................RB20DE.............WHC34

So, basically, when it comes to model spec, "RS" is anything turbo, "RS Four" is turbo AWD, "Four" is any AWD, and "RS Four S" is turbo AWD with manual (series 2 only, and there were NO turbo RWDs).

As far as chassis codes, series 1 all had an "E-" prefix (such as E-WHC34), and series 2 all had the "GF-" prefix (such as GF-WGNC34).

WHC = RB20DE power (the lowest model and in one spec level and RWD only)

WGC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, and RWD only

WGNC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, AWD.

So, H = RB20 power, G = RB25 power, and GN = RB25 + AWD.

All this info was found RIGHT HERE, and I will update the first post when I have time with more specific details regarding release dates, spec levels, and options.

COLOUR AND TRIM

Exterior Colours:

* Bayside Blue (TV-2)

* Sonic Silver (KR-4)

* Black Pearl (GV-1)

* Lightning Yellow (EV-1)

* Sherwood Green Pearl (DR-2)

* Active Red (AR-2)

* White Pearl (QT-1)

Edited by GoldZilla
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, i have a feeling mine is pretty base line

No electric boot

No interior options (though, i find the std stereo speakers really good compared to other cars ive listened in...could have been changed, havnt looked)

No body kit at all (at least i got the lower front lip)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know the Series 1 RS Four comes with 15" Wheels and the RS Four-V comes with 16" wheels.

Also, the RS Four-V comes with the double din CD/Cassette player, while the RS Four only has the Cassette/Radio

These are the 2 main ways to tell the RS Four and the RS Four-V apart

I have factory tweaters in the A-columns, which isn't a standard feature

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great info ppl's! Never knew I had a RS Four-V...... got all the standard features and all the Optional Extras.

Plus I got the rust by the mirrors on both front doors, but none elsewhere from what I can tell.

Edited by bwilkeson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i got the RSFour then

Doesnt bother me, keep the kg's down :)

Stupid Vicroads put my vehicle tare mass at 1350. Annoying when there are p plater power-to-weight laws here in Victoria, when the car really weighs ~1600kg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some Stagea Reviews from magazines contained in this link.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91842

I got the electric self closing boot option, and roll cover. But no net. Actually thinking of getting a cage like u can get for commo's and fords due to safety reasons.

Also got the rust under the mirrors ... well for another 2days then it'll be gone!! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cages are dangerous, ie if you or a child is in the boot and the door closes...... a child could die, due to the heat buildup in our Aussie summer.

Make sure you get an 'approved' safety cage if thats the way you want to go.

I think forum member GTR Familia was selling cargo barriers at one stage?

Edited by bwilkeson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i bought a set of cover and netting off him. works wel, you can mount them a few different ways depending on what you're putting in the back

you can set it up a way so you can have a bit of a parcel shelf for kids to put books/pillows or whatever on. pretty useful and multi purpose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Confirm that Series 2 comes with Xenon headlights, well at least mine has and most others I have seen appear to have Xenons as well. Also got the auto boot closure thing too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, i have a feeling mine is pretty base line

No electric boot

No interior options (though, i find the std stereo speakers really good compared to other cars ive listened in...could have been changed, havnt looked)

No body kit at all (at least i got the lower front lip)

Dude, my body kit is the same - I've only got the front lip, but I LOVE the way it looks anyway. I've got no rear spoiler either.

I know the Series 1 RS Four comes with 15" Wheels and the RS Four-V comes with 16" wheels.

Also, the RS Four-V comes with the double din CD/Cassette player, while the RS Four only has the Cassette/Radio

These are the 2 main ways to tell the RS Four and the RS Four-V apart

I have factory tweaters in the A-columns, which isn't a standard feature

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Cool, thanks for that Terminal.

So I'm guessing RS-Four has ATESSA AWD, but is a very basic spec level? Are the 15's alloys as well, or steelies with wheel covers?

Mine looks to be an RS Four V (with the 5spd conversion, of course!). I have the 16's, the electric boot-locking, a double-DIN cd/cassette/radio, and factory tweeters in the A-pillar. But I've already blown my speakers because it just doesn't play loud enough!!!

Thanks for the info guys, and keep it coming! :D

I will be adding and/or modifying the list over the next few days...

Cheers,

Nick T.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All RS Fours have the same ATESSA, but it's not up to the spec of the GTR's. smaller axels and diffs i think.

But remembering hte Pulsar GTiR has ATESSA too, it's just a different driveline, so i think the ATESSA system is the same, it's just the driveline that makes the difference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Goldzilla, great thread.... as for speakers; ditch 'em. The Clarion stock speakers are 15w and pretty 'bad'. With me stereo install Ive put in 4 door speakers, amp & sub, and disconnected the A-pillar tweaters. MUCH better.... :D

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Came across these Ganador reps and am wondering if anyone has used these/come across these ?  Seem to look like reasonably good replicas (shape wise) from what I can see. Ive been told by them that they are moulded to be exact copies of original Ganadors (but thats what every replica version will say) https://www.shiftperformance.com.au/ganador-style-mirrors-suits-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr Photos of them installed appreciated Thanks 👍
    • lol, yeah, and how gutted I am now I’m back over in Europe (actual Europe) and dealing with the nightmare of U.K.-Continental Europe bureaucracy.   Anyway, arrived in NL early January with the BMW, whilst the Skyline followed suit about a week later. Both cars ended up stuck with their relative importers for about six weeks. Since then, I made a trip to the Nurburgring with a friend and have since ditched the Skyline in the garage. This week, I finally managed to find a suitable shop to do an alignment so hopped on over to Germany to fix the miserable mess the local Netherlands shop conducted; the car was just not aggressive enough in the rear for my driving style - I found myself understeering a fair bit at the ring which was really a first for me with this car. Mis-matched F&R tyres can be held partly responsible - have now moved to F+R NS2Rs. One thing I’ve noticed is the 180kph limiter just does not cut it here. I quickly hit that (for the first time) in Germany on the autobahn. Japanese circuits are small - at least the ones that were near me. I rarely spent much time in 4th. After much deliberation with the HKS SLD, I have ordered Nistune from Matt. Whilst the Skyline has been gathering dust I got to learning the highly neglected BMW I bought in the U.K. was in fact just that, highly neglected. Took the ol’ dog down to Switzerland last weekend with a progressively deteriorating front end. It went from vibration during braking at highway speed on the way down, to vibrating non-stop on the way back. I’ve already fixed numerous engine issues - low oil pressure, f**ked injectors, incorrect coils and plugs, electric water pump. Still to do is a suspension and brake overhaul, rear subframe replacement and likely more ageing engine electrical components. But I must say, I love it. After so long with the Skyline, I really didn’t know cars could be so comfortable.    
    • Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno. 
    • Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser. 
    • Took it apart to get to the bearing found out i was wrong the bearing was pressed on to the diff side and the part i removed only had the bearing side, checked the bearing all looked fine took the shaft end to a shop and they recon it was movement from back and forth that made the marks and not rumbling about, so i just changed the seal and put it all back again.
×
×
  • Create New...