Jump to content
SAU Community

how to conect z32 to r33 gtst s2 (3 pins)


zoom
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have the same queries.I have sent cubes a pm to see if i can get an answer.

Untill i read the thread by cubes i was undr the impression that i had a s1 motor.

Luky for me i didnt go and get any parts for a s1 and realise that they would not fit.

What are the identifying traits of a s1 engine compared to a series 2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done some tests with the help of cubes.And i have determined that,In order of the afm flow,that wire number;

1.12v

2.Air signal ground

3.signal wire @ 1.4v

What we have to find out is it safe to run the Z32's 12v feed to the ground and why.Can i get some help from others on this question please.

Thnx cubes & zoom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to wire a Series 1 (4 wire style) plug to a Series 2 Loom, you just have to add the extra earth wire for the power supply side of the AFM.

The factory Series 1 earth that the series 2 doesn't have is wired to the front of the plenum with the rest of the earths.

If that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've done some testing myself also and found the following:

1. Power 12V connecting to pin 49

2. Air Signal ground to pin 26 (note it's not ground)

3. Air signal to pin 27.

So to wire the z32 to s2 afm as follows:-

Z32 AFM R33 S2

A - not connected

B - Air signal -> 3

C - Ground -> to ground

D - Grd signal -> 2

E - Power 12V -> 1

F - Not connected

can anyone correct me if i'm wrong? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Just finished wiring up another one so I thought I would add something a little more simple.

E --> Black/White

D --> White/Blue

C --> Direct connect to vehicle body using ring terminal etc.

B --> Orange/Blue

{First colour denotes colour of wire. Second colour is trace colour}

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...