Jump to content
SAU Community

Tas Whoretown


Keegs
 Share

Recommended Posts

yeah I fired it up a bit yesterday, Got stuck with some class one dickheads in the Mx5s; they were going hella slow around lime rock and because I didn't qualify I started from the back, trying to work my way through and they just would block me on the straight and just be assholes. I managed to get around most of them by driving in their blind spot for a few corners and then sneak past exiting the corner. Still managed to come 2nd :D

Had a go at oval too, figgured I suck at that, I was OK in the legends and manged to lead for a few laps but I'd just cook my tyres and run wide into the walls :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah I fired it up a bit yesterday, Got stuck with some class one dickheads in the Mx5s; they were going hella slow around lime rock and because I didn't qualify I started from the back, trying to work my way through and they just would block me on the straight and just be assholes. I managed to get around most of them by driving in their blind spot for a few corners and then sneak past exiting the corner. Still managed to come 2nd :D

Had a go at oval too, figgured I suck at that, I was OK in the legends and manged to lead for a few laps but I'd just cook my tyres and run wide into the walls :(

The biggest and most enjoyable thing I found was getting out of the Rookie/Class D series, with maybe the exception of the Skip Barber, as that's a fun car to drive as long as the racing is clean. I'm happy they've made the Radical a class C car again with races going off every couple of hours, because the Radical is an awesome car to drive. It's one of the ones I can actually drive on the limit strangely, I can't do the same with most of the open wheelers... I seem better with tin tops like the Mustang etc. *shrug*

And yeah, jerks in the MX5 blocking is annoying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

2 of my hoes' , one is the dirty broad minded person you thrash the f**k out of , the other is the good girl you take to meet mum and dad :) , both need a wash atm , but i just brought the 34 down to my work to pull the locks out to send away to get fixed :) , it hadn't seen the road in over a month? , and a blown 3rd gear 20 box (the first and only one i've blown so far) and the new dash i made for the hq and my new tow bus :)

post-20231-0-68213400-1317638545_thumb.jpg

post-20231-0-16984100-1317638576_thumb.jpg

post-20231-0-66480100-1317638605_thumb.jpg

post-20231-0-50346300-1317638636_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh yes , i was ' violating ' it , turn one at symmons , sticky tyres and ~200rwk .... and some tool who thought if he kicked the clutch enough times it'd have to spin at some stage pinch.gif:pirate::blush: , it went out with a bang :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...