Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy Genuine R33 Coilpacks


Recommended Posts

Yeh im getting my work done by donny at forced they are really busy at the moment dont want to hassle the guy over coilpacks when the car isnt ready for everything else yet

Edited by skewy33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheaper than crappy Yellowjackets too!

Genuine? Cheaper than yellow jackets?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406879-coilpack-replacement-bang-for-buck-what-works-the-best/#entry6484679

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/187108-jjr-coil-packs-vs-oem-vs-splitfire-vs-other/page-21#entry7236243

Have a search around here, someone did a comparison of fake Nissan coil packs vs. real ones.

FYI, even though my GT-R runs off the factory actuators (so ~12psi), the Yellow Jackets have been working fine for 2+ years, lots of km plus two track days. I run 1.1mm gapped spark plugs.

People had YJ coils fail, people had Splitfire ones fail as well. Plenty of info around here to make up your own mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YellowJackets - as good as they sound, as good as their marketing say they are.. they're only good for a stock application.

Once you start ramming in boost they misfire all over the shop.. then you increase dwell (as you do) and they die on you.

In my experience, Splitfires have always been superior even with silly dwell settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly, you get what you pay for. But why risk buying ebay "Nissan" coils for $300 when you can get Yellow Jackets with local support/warranty, the seller being an active member on this forum? (that's my point)

Anyway...

http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/engine/220/22433/

That's not even the correct argument. Why risk buying yellow jackets at all, despite the warm fuzzies of forum trader and all that stuff, when they have a higher number of failures than Splitfires and don't save you much money anyway? I'd rather pay the extra and suffer the tiny failure rate of Splitfires than save 30% and near 1 in 3 failure rate that I've seen with yellows.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my experience, stock application it works fine. So if your car is stock, and you need new coils, would you buy fake OEM coils or yellow jackets (assuming you can't spend more than $500).

Under the artificial limitation that I cannot spend more than $500 I would clean up my existing coils and/or buy some 2nd hand originals until such time as I had the money to buy Splitfires or new genuine coils.

Face it. $500 is co close to the price for Splitfires or genuine that the gap is almost meaningless.

Let's put it another way.....would you buy a known non-genuine Z32 AFM for, let's say, $100, given the knowledge that they do work and have been used by a number of people, or would you rather pay $200 for a known genuine one? The other part of that question is that the known non-genuine ones, whilst they work, don't have the capacity that the proper ones do, and therefore can't be treated as if they actually were a proper Z32 (ie you can't use the Z32 curve in PFC or Nistune). I see the Yellowjackets thing in the same way. They work, but they don't work well enough and reliably enough to justify the relatively small saving in purchase cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock. When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things: 1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right. 2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th). Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
    • Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.
    • Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.
    • Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops. Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7. Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?
    • Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side... What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)
×
×
  • Create New...