Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjustable Cam Destroyed Cas - Wtf?


Recommended Posts

Hey I've been having random starting issues and after it finally showed a diagnosis code I removed the cas - and I found the the exhaust cam bolts have rubbed against the cas! Am I missing a gasket or something to give it more room?

I would have hoped the mechanic would have noticed when they were adjusted!

post-32397-0-58687600-1406294427_thumb.jpg

post-32397-0-35337900-1406294626_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you pulled it off, were there 3 "washers" about 3 mm (give or take) thick between the CAS and what it bolts to. If not, there is your problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well when I got it back from the tuner it had new bolts on the cas - so I'm thinking they replaced the original and didn't put washers back on!

I think I will be having words with them....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that will be the problem. those washers are important, could have been real trouble if it had totally wrecked the CAS on the dyno for example. Not cool at all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The washers are in there you can see them in the seconds photo

Definitely no washers between the cas and the cam cover - the cam bolts have the square washer as in the pic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow.

And looking at it it appears to be set to zero. Bit hard to see in the photo though.

I think it has a small adjustment.

I've put it all together and it still won't start - the injectors ticked when the cas was spun, and there's spark in the plugs - so fuel problem?? Or would the replacement cas put the timing too far out to start it????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See the black rubber thing attached to the cam belt cover? If it has little metal things in there (which to me it looks like it does) they are the washer/spacers piggaz is talking about

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Piggaz is on the money. No washers inside that rubber gasket causes the cas to get too close to the cam gear. It doesn't look like there is any of the washers inside that gasket in the pics.

Edited by Chris32R
Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32-25t - I think that mark is where a washer used to be as the gasket is pretty hammered!

double check that the input shaft for the cas hasn't snapped off

double check that the input shaft for the cas hasn't snapped off

Yeah the input shaft locator is broken off in the cas - so I'm trying to line up the new cas into the shaft, but it's bloody hard!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AF53B8B7-3F5C-424D-9AB8-F0DFBBF75FC8.png that's a washer, you can see the outline of it clearly

Ah I can see what you mean now I'm at the car - there is a small washer inbuilt into the gasket on the cam cover - if this is all that's needed I'm confused how the cas was touching the cam bolts....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

can happen if the wrong washers are in there (not thick enough) but hard to say just from the pic. They look right, but you might be best off doing some measurements I think. Measure the thickness of the washers, etc. If you can source another CAS (cheap second hand one might be best) and put it in the car then turn it over by hand slowly and listen to see if it rubs it might tell you a bit more. I'd order a new seal and washers, not that expensive.Then see if it still hits

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've now replaced the cas - as it was scored on the inside.

I have got the car briefly running with it all together - and I think it is clearing fine as no marks are on the new cas so the gasket with washes included must be fine.

On reflection, ages ago I had the car running without the cam cover for a short drive, and didn't hear / see it rubbing, but I guess it must have been - a lot of damage with only 10mins of running!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...