P1135 Fault Code

[GT-5732]

Hi Guys,

I have a NM35 Stagea and it wont start. i have Fault Code P1135 come up and googled and came up with this:

http://engine-codes.com/p1135_nissan.html

Possible causes

- Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2 harness is open or shorted
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS)
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor

What does this mean?

Tech notes

Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

What does this mean?

When is the code detected?

When there is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree, the valve will stop working and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will trigger the P1135 code.

Possible symptoms

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Possible engine lack/loss of power
- Posssible engine rough idle

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1135_nissan.html#ixzz38AhpLpuN

If anyone can give a bit more of an idea of what and where would be great.

Thanks in advance

[MrStabby]

The Tech notes say to change the oil and filter. Suggest you get an oil with good cleaning abilities - maybe a Heavy Duty aka diesel oil that's also SL SM or SN certified, or maybe a high mileage oil. I would also just use a cheap dino and change it regularly (eg every 3000kms), if there's any evidence the motor is sludged.

[GT-5732]

yeah, i will do that, cheers

but would that sort of thing stop the car from starting or running? as i cant get the car to start, it sometimes tries to start but straight away stalls.

[scotty nm35]

The V35 uses an oil control solenoid for the cam actuation, but the VQ25 doesn't. Ignore that suggestion.

Likely you have a faulty crank or cam sensor. The car should run without the crank sensor plugged in, so try unplugging that first. If it still won't start, then one of the cam sensors on the back of the head is probably faulty.

[GT-5732]

The V35 uses an oil control solenoid for the cam actuation, but the VQ25 doesn't. Ignore that suggestion.

Likely you have a faulty crank or cam sensor. The car should run without the crank sensor plugged in, so try unplugging that first. If it still won't start, then one of the cam sensors on the back of the head is probably faulty.

Thanks Scott, ill give it all a go.

Cheers

[GT-5732]

well, i have tried swapping out both CAS and Sensors on the back of the heads and still nothing. i cleared the codes and it hasn't came back but im thinking it my not till the engine is running again. i have got another error that came back up and it P0121 and i have swapped out throttle body's and accelerator pedals and still no go with P0121 comming up again once cleared....

There has to be a short somewhere in the system, but i wouldnt have a clue where to start with the short!?!?! Any idea guys? or would i be better to get a auto elect. to have a look?

[Dunc]

Check the fuse box behind the battery; they have a habit of flooding. I cant recall if that one specifically has fuses for CAM/Crank/TB sensors... but it's an easy check.

[GT-5732]

yeah just checked it... all dry, just dusty. cheers

Anyone else got any ideas?

[scotty nm35]

Low battery voltage can trigger random faults...

That code is the pedal sensor, did you play with it before the code popped up? Are you using known good parts when you swap?

Perhaps the sensor power has a dodgy connection, or a sensor earth fault perhaps? You could measure these with a multimeter...

[GT-5732]

I swapped the parts with my Stag and there are no faults on my car. im guessing a dodgy connection too.

Thanks for the help, i just want to get this thing started! lol

Low battery voltage can trigger random faults...

That code is the pedal sensor, did you play with it before the code popped up? Are you using known good parts when you swap?

Perhaps the sensor power has a dodgy connection, or a sensor earth fault perhaps? You could measure these with a multimeter...