Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler


Direwolf
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Sorry if this has already been answered, I have had a look around but couldn't see a definite.

Will this style of intercooler fit a S1 Stagea ?

Listing:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KLS-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-FULL-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-r34-RB25-RB20-turbo/191139298348?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D6396917397384694418%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140106155344%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D230869357899&rt=nc

Direct link to image:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzYwWDM2MA==/z/eEAAAOxy0x1TT2D6/$_12.JPG

Looking in the engine bay it looks like drivers side would be a tough fit.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^this.. also, this is next on my shopping list: http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/371047755695?nav=SEARCH

A quick search around will reveal all. People have also used xr6 turbo intercoolers with success. The one you have listed probably will fit with a hole under the battery tray and a small bit of massaging. Alternatively, an r34 smic is a nice stealthy upgrade.

Edited by c34Florry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep unless you're going forward facing plenum go a turn flow. easy to install, no cutting and nearly the same tube length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used one of these in my wagon:

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=207&products_id=208&osCsid=eeaa0b07c62725c35347ccedff7d7964

I was looking for a vertical flow unit for ages. I knew what I wanted & found it here, a complete guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424157-r34-gtt-fmic-with-no-bodywork-cutting/

This is a much better option. Lag is an important consideration before buying. The one I picked is just under twice as big in capacity as the stock one with 2.5'' piping, & I gained 400rpm lag (2,200 rpm - 2,600rpm). Like the cooling pro unit it has 2.5'' inlet/outlet. Understanding why a vertical flow intercooler is better than a horizontal flow requires research, as this would be a very long post to explain! It might have a smaller surface area, BUT, it is 3.5'' thick. It was a no hassle install with NO cutting of the front reinforcement bar or bumper. Very neat & tidy, & even with slimline number plates & black colour, nobody even knows it there :ph34r:!!

My next intercooler will be even better, air to water!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^interesting. I never knew these existed until now.. doing some reading and they sound awesome! Do you need to buy a specific piping kit for these or did you make one up yourself?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a JustJap 'Cooling Pro' return flow unit. Contrary to what most people say about non-Japanese stuff, this kit is well made and includes the correct length hot and cold side piping. The only issue I had with mine was fabricating some nicer alloy brackets, as the steel ones supplied were pretty average looking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^interesting. I never knew these existed until now.. doing some reading and they sound awesome! Do you need to buy a specific piping kit for these or did you make one up yourself?

Nope, just bought a piping kit from ebay out of china. Like this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-INCH-ALUMINUM-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-KIT-PIPES-CLAMP-COUPLER-UNIVERSAL-/260882361775?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbdccedaf

I specified black hoses when I ordered it.

When I ordered the intercooler, I ordered the 60 degree (#1), the 90 degree (#3) & the 45 degree (#7 in the pics of the guide). As it turns out, the the ones I ordered with the intercooler were 5 layered hose & the china kitted hose was only 3. If I did it again, I'd get all the hoses from the U.S. with the intercooler.

The piping kit wasn't barbed on the ends of the pipes, but I didn't see an issue with this as scotchbriting the pipe & painting it black gave it plenty of grip, PLUS I cut my pipe so there was PLENTY inside the hose when fully assembled. Once it was all finished, the piping hardly moved at all, so, no chance of blowing a hose off!!

You'll have plenty of pipe & hose left for other projects down the line too!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just noticed you posted a link to a most helpful tutorial lol. went to frozenboost.com and all the parts youll need comes in au$100 cheaper inc. delivery (us$477)than the cooling pro (au$599) AND its more efficient.. AND there's no cutting of anything required.. lovely.. do want

Edited by c34Florry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The intercoolers most companies market (horizontal flow) are fairly useless for the applications most people use them for. The might be ok IF you are running in excess of 30psi & 150 degrees C.

Check this link out, its FULL of equations. This link should be stickied for anyone wanting to create a good combo!

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
    • I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines     ... zero issues, staged of course    Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.   
×
×
  • Create New...