Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Engine Bay Cleaning?

Justin1994

By Justin1994,
in Car Detailing & Paint Care

 Share

Recommended Posts

Justin1994 Newbie

Justin1994

Posted
Posted

Heyya guys and girls.

Just wanted to know what to avoid, from personal experience, I'm aware degreesing the engine you need to cover pod filter and afm. But anything else needs to be avoided??

Also, how much degreeser and water is to much? My engine id dirty as hell, probs never been cleaned by prevuous owners.

So will require a huge clean. Will I have to do it over a few days?

Thanks in advance,

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites
me_larr Community Regular

me_larr

Posted
Posted

Lots of hard work

A few used toothbrushes

A decent degreaser that doesn't stink (3-in-1 degreaser for example)

303 aerospace protectant to bring the plastics/rubbers back to a nice matte, brand-new looking black colour.

I do not hose out my engine bay. No amount of plastic and covers can keep water out of getting into sensitive electronics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I use chemtec ct18.

That stuff is awesome and not harsh.

I gently spray with a hose to rinse off.

The engine bay is not full of sensitive electronic components!

Don't spray heaps of water on the afm or cas or coil pack area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

So if there is deep water on the road I can't drive through it....because there is lots of sensitive electrics under my car too??[/quote

According to this thread that is the case.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
me_larr Community Regular

me_larr

Posted
Posted

I think you guys are looking too much into it.

Have seen idiots using a gerny to hose out the engine bay.

Then you see a fair few threads on here over the years asking for help cos their idle's shot or the car won't drive the same cos the coilpack valley's full of water etc...

Don't you dare tell me you haven't seen those threads being posted up here before.

It didn't seem to me that the OP knew what he was doing so giving idiot-proof advice saves a lot of heartache.

So if there is deep water on the road I can't drive through it....because there is lots of sensitive electrics under my car too??

Mind telling me what sort of sensitive electrics you have under your car?

There's nothing of that nature under mine.

Here in QLD, cars don't do deep water too well. SES work overtime pulling idiots that do try out of trouble. Maybe your car's really awesome?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
NISSAN GTR Veteran

NISSAN GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

So if there is deep water on the road I can't drive through it....because there is lots of sensitive electrics under my car too??

Sensitive electrics under your car - NEONS SHOULD BE OK ...........

Edited by NISSAN GTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I think you guys are looking too much into it.

Have seen idiots using a gerny to hose out the engine bay.

Then you see a fair few threads on here over the years asking for help cos their idle's shot or the car won't drive the same cos the coilpack valley's full of water etc...

Don't you dare tell me you haven't seen those threads being posted up here before.

It didn't seem to me that the OP knew what he was doing so giving idiot-proof advice saves a lot of heartache.

Mind telling me what sort of sensitive electrics you have under your car?

There's nothing of that nature under mine.

Here in QLD, cars don't do deep water too well. SES work overtime pulling idiots that do try out of trouble. Maybe your car's really awesome?

have driven through many a puddle.....I know QLD gets rather large puddles though and the people up there aren't too bright so i do understand your reasoning...

but there is just as many electrics low in the car, starter motor, gearbox plugs etc etc that are subject to wetness all year round....

Now yes, i have seen coilpack cover threads and it is an area to sway away from...and you also shouldnt hit anything with too much pressure...use a too powerful gerni, push gerni too close to electrics of course you are asking for problems....but natural selection is at work too and many of us have sprayed our engines countless times without problem...

but saying "dont spray your engine" is just as naive as the goose who sprays his engine wrong.. I have sprayed/degreases the engine of every car i have ever owned and thats a few...only once did i have an issue where my valley filled up with water causing my plugs to short out...but thats my own stupid fault for spraying too much water on my coiplacks....

anyway tl;dr

it is ok to spray your engine...it is not ok to spray certain parts of it....learn the difference you shouldnt have an issue....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • Ghosty033
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By Ghosty033 · Posted

      curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...