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R32 Projector Retrofit Kit (Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 Into R32 Projector Headlights)


-Tom
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DISCLAIMER: This modification may be defectable. Do this at your own risk.

ANOTHER DISCLAIMER: This guide is specifically using Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 projectors. If you choose a different type of projector it may not fit.

Hi guys, so thought I'd make this a separate thread instead of posting it in the Xenon HID thread because the projectors I used are a pretty universal set and it doesn't involve too much dicking around with projectors from different makes/models.

As you may have experienced, R32 projector headlights suck ding dong; I was pretty shattered when I found out I couldn't even drive my car out at night because the stock halogen bulbs illuminated maybe 2m in front of my car. It was dangerous.

I had two options:

- Spend $350 for a set of reflector headlights and a decent pair of bulbs; OR

- Spend $365 for a retrofit kit and do the work myself

Now let me just say that there is a bit of work involved but you could do it all within 48 hours (because you need your choice of adhesive to dry overnight). The biggest challenge was removing the passenger side headlight as there's a bunch of hoses and fittings that get in the way of the nut that holds the headlight to the chassis. You'll know which one I mean if you try this.

Try removing the airbox/pod filters and the undoing the charcoal canister clamp with some pliers (or a spanner if you have one that fits), lifting the canister up then undoing the three bolts that hold the clamp in place.

You might be lucky and have a previous owner already remove this nut for you.

Further discussion on removing R32 headlights are here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/17956-how-to-take-out-r32-headlights/

TL;DR

- Remove indicator assembly

- Unplug bulbs from behind headlight

- 2 nuts holding headlight in from the side

- 2 nuts holding headlight onto chassis (access from engine bay; one of these is the nut that is a prick to get out on the passenger side)

- Jiggle it out and done

Onto The Kit:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html

What I got:

- 2 x Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 (RHD) projector

- 2 x H1 3Five 4300k bulbs

- 2 x AMP: Morimoto 3Five DSP ballasts

- HD relay H1/H3

- Mini Gatling Gun shrouds (didn't use these; but up to you how far you want to customise your headlights)

- OCI butyl rubber glue

The whole thing comes nicely packaged with packing peanuts and came to around $AUD365 shipped after conversion. TheRetrofitSource are very helpful with their chat box thing, however this guide is really about the Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 projectors fitting inside R32 headlights. Feel free to deviate from this ingredients list to purchase different bulbs, ballasts or relays as you see fit.

This Morimoto Mini kit is the entry level kit, but if you'd like to read a bit more about comparisons on the FX-R or the Accord Euro projects please see here (written by EvoXenoN):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93963-xenon-hid-lights-conversion-for-r32/?p=6904898

Note: I'm not sure how much you need to alter FX-R projectors to fit R32 headlights, but it's helpful information if you're interested. First page of that same thread has a tutorial on fitting Accord Euro projectors into R32 headlights that Ronin 09 has detailed.

Onto Building Stuff:

You start off with this:

xbznfXv.jpg

There are 4 metal clips that you should take out before proceeding with the next step.

kOmto63.jpg

Then you turn your oven to 135° C and let it heat up for 10 minutes. After those 10 minutes TURN IT OFF. Then put the headlight on a tea towel on a baking tray and put it in the oven making sure it doesn't touch the sides.

Close the door and set a timer for 10 minutes.

Once those 10 minutes is up pull it out with oven mitts. The sealing rubber around the edges should now be soft. Stick a flat head screw driver and pry at it. It will slowly but surely come out. You might hear some cracking or popping but don't worry, it's just plastic. It'll live.

You'll now have this in front of you:

Ki2ayMK.jpg

Remove the chrome surround by undoing 2 screws up the top. You might have to give it a gentle yank as there are 'cup' clips on either side of the headlight that holds it in place.

Note: If you have time you can re-chrome or 'black house' your headlights by spraying this chrome surround; almost all R32 headlights I've seen have had some visible cracking in the chrome finish.

Take out the projector bowl by unscrewing the 8mm adjusting hexagonal sticks on the rear of the headlight.

jLSvS0s.jpg

Now you'll have this stupid gaudy-looking thing out:

iH0a6Jt.jpg

And we want to reuse the bracket that it comes in so we retain ADJUSTABILITY (very important for later on).

So do this:

Which is really just undoing the tabs with a flat head screw driver and pulling the whole lens assembly out.

Note: If you hear a grinding noise that's probably the lens breaking on the edges as you try weasel it from it's home. There will be glass particles that will fall out if it starts break.

6y9ciEd.jpg

And eventually the collimator lens pops out like so:

e4ULdsd.jpg

You want to remove the metal bracket 'cut off' that sits inside the projector assembly. Two screws on the bottom.

I, unfortunately, didn't take photos of the Morimoto projectors by themselves but I hope you can still follow along.

Get the Morimoto projector bowl and grind down the red parts:

Note: You can use a Dremel rotary tool, or if you don't have one any sanding hand tool will do.

qXYGudi.png

So it now looks like this:

36DRkbe.jpg

Now that's all you really need to do to get it to fit inside the existing bracket. You can mount it inside the existing bracket like the old projector was, or you can flip the bracket upside down and flip all the clips as well.

I flipped the bracket as it made the projector sit straight instead of pointing slightly upwards when mounted in the original way (in the above photo that is with the projector mounted in the original orientation before I flipped the bracket upside down).

Note: The yellow corner 'cup' clip might not sit properly with the projector bowl installed. Use pliers to twist off one of the retaining legs and it should fit in smoothly.

Proceed to use a decent adhesive to seal the deal. I just applied some the parts where the projector bowl was touching the original bracket:

Use tape to hold the bowl in place so it doesn't slip overnight.

IU9hGTk.jpg

Leave it overnight to harden (or whatever the instructions say).

And now this is when you assemble everything in reverse.

- Install new projector into housing by screwing the 8mm adjusting hexagonal sticks

- Chrome surround on top (clip it into the cup clips), 2 screws on top

Now when I was resealing the headlights I used the butyl glue (which is really just window sealer), rolled it out into thin strips and packed it into the valley where the original sealant was.

imwvOa7.jpg

Do the same as you started. Heat up the oven for 10 minutes, TURN IT OFF, put bare headlight into oven on tea towel for 8 ~ 10 minutes. Pull it out, press glass onto new sealant.

The heat should make the butyl glue fairly soft and the glass should slip right on.

Install headlights onto vehicle.

Hook up your relay (if you choose to use one; I did)

Turn headlights on and it should look pretty similar to:

sFG4vCu.jpg

Which looks like this outside:

JYpqXxr.jpg

Adjust as necessary using the 8mm adjusting sticks on the rear of the headlights and enjoy your actual working R32 projector headlights.

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Yep, sorry Ravi forgot to mention you did an FX-R install and couldn't edit the original post.

Vp9KrRv.jpg

My projector seems to be sitting off to one side a bit but I'd put that down to not adjusting them properly so they're pointing straight. Even then the visibility is still so good!

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Wow it fits up great. More room to move around as well (FX-R doesn't give you much room to move, so aligning them pre-fitting is more important).

I've noticed with the standard adjusters that the up/down movement isn't a true vertical motion, it moves diagonally lol.

Gotta love the high beam aye :P:D

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Wow it fits up great. More room to move around as well (FX-R doesn't give you much room to move, so aligning them pre-fitting is more important).

I've noticed with the standard adjusters that the up/down movement isn't a true vertical motion, it moves diagonally lol.

Gotta love the high beam aye :P:D

Do your FX-Rs retain adjustability since you tapped holes for the adjusting screws?

Yeah, you're right about the diagonal movement, but I think the yellow clip in the corner of the original bracket sort of acts like a pivot point so if you align it right you can get pretty close to up/down movements.

I haven't actually hooked up the high beam yet, but soon!

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Yeah they are adjustable, but it hits the plastic shroud thingy, hence me wanting to mount them on 'spacers' for more adjustment (and pushing the projector a bit more forward for the factory look). I was thinking of using the original bracket for the next set, but you've already done it, so I know it works :).

Get the high beam bit hooked up, it's fun illuminating the whole road in front of you, and flashing idiots with fked up headlights/highbeams on.

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