(Sa) 350Gt / 350Z Balljoint, Bushes, Brake Pads & Chassis Brace
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Just watched the video, that's wild! Could it be there's some tiny air pockets in the caliper causing unequal force when the pedal is pressed? -
Pedal to floor is not caliper flex. Pedal to floor is hydraulic leaking/bypassing. You quite possibly stuffed the seals in the MC when you were bleeding. A common mistake the unitiated make is to push the pedal down too far when bleeding with an MC that has been in use a long time. Crud builds up on the MC wall just past the furthest it is ever pushed in use. That crud can be hard enough to damage the seals when you push the piston down past when bleeding. Might be time for a kit in the MC. -
Just buy a software license and put the stock maps into the (tuned for a worked engine) Nistune. It is not difficult. I cannot imagine owning Nistune without owning Nistune Software. Just....how could anyone contemplate it?
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25Neo injectors are 3/4 length with 14mm o-rings at both ends and the Denso plug. Like these. https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r35-gtr-350z-370z-720ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ You can probably fit any 14mm o-ring injector you like to that manifold, provided they are not too short or too long. And even if they are too short or too long, you can add spacers to the injectors or to the fuel rail mounting legs if you really needed to. Though I'd be hard pressed to believe that you would attempt it with anything other than brand new EV14s like the ones I linked. Having said the above, if the picture of the injector you posted has anything to do with the manifold, it looks like they are specifying full length injectors. So you'd just buy the full length part number instead of the 3/4 length part number. But I can't see any mention of that injector length on that manifold's eBay page, so perhaps you should ask the vendor.
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Hello SAU, I recently purchased an Alcon TA6 kit through a QLD company who supplies the dog bones/rotors etc. The kit has 356x36mm rotors - aluminium dog bones - TA6 calipers. I used the HEL brake lines I already have. Kit appears to be of high quality.....as much as visually i guess it can be. What I have noticed after install and pressure bleeding (and pedal bleeding) multiple times is that the calliper is flexing a decent amount when the pedal is pushed - enough that i can push the pedal to the floor as the calliper just keeps on flexing. Details: 1. OEM master cylinder @ 15/16" (BM44 - non ABS GTST) 2. OEM everything else on brake system - rear callipers etc. Just braided lines (front/rear) and the TA6 front kit 3. The TA6 calliper has ~2% smaller piston area than the OEM 4 pot sumitomo calliper - so no issue there.....i dont think. TA6 is 27/31.8/38.1 and OEM is 40.4/40.4 4. Have checked the calliper flex with car on (booster assistance) and off - same result just have to push harder with car off 5. Have unbolted calliper from the dog bone so its just resting on the disc and tested again - same thing - so flex of the dog bone doesnt seem to be an issue 6. Tried to measure pedal ratio as best i could - looks to be about 4.8:1 with some margin for error - ignoring the booster with 50kg of leg (beeeefy - but with booster probably fairly achievable) thats about 770psi of brake pressure which doesnt seem super high - but maybe it is?? So 75kg of leg = 1150psi. I guess my question is - is this normal? Alcon distributors over here have been helpful but ultimately have said its normal. I feel like modulation is bad as only the first 30-40% of pedal pressure/travel does anything. After that its a mix of flex....and maybe some extra clamp force. My old setup - Ksport 8 pots with 12 years of track work on them did not have this issue - pedal was solid. Only reason for change was a hub failure caused the disc to tear one of the callipers to bits. Thanks SAU - any thoughts/help would be appreciated. 20240303_124128 (1) (1).mp4
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