Jump to content
SAU Community

Harness Bar...?


Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Lots of people have different opionions re harness bars.

Im looking at running one in the r33 gtst (pic below of style)

What are peoples takes on these?

Also with that type of bar is harness mounting to the rear seat belt mounts? and the lap part to the normal front seat belt holes?

what is the better option 4 or 6 point harness? I wont be running hans...

And also the middle clip seems to differ alot. whats the easiest to use? pics?

Thanks

post-33454-0-11604200-1388368609_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you hop in the back and swing on it, you can move it about 2 inches up or down

once the harness is tight it doesnt move as its tentioned up

if it did move it would only tighten the harnes on your chest ( unlike the one in your pick above which is in compression and if something got loose your head smashes the steering wheel... ;) but r31 owners dont think of these things)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks pretty good.

It might just be the angle, but it seems like the harness might be resting on the back of the seat though

I recently went through the process of sourcing and reinstalling all the standard rear trim inc parcel shelf and seats. May touch it but it'll be very close and the rear back part has a bit of extra foam on it that sticks out to hide gap between the parcel shelf. Shouldn't be an issue.

Might call them up and ask them how much for the bar. Looks to be very easy to install.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I recently went through the process of sourcing and reinstalling all the standard rear trim inc parcel shelf and seats. May touch it but it'll be very close and the rear back part has a bit of extra foam on it that sticks out to hide gap between the parcel shelf. Shouldn't be an issue.

Might call them up and ask them how much for the bar. Looks to be very easy to install.

Did u end up getting a price on that harness bar as it totally looks the goods to me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked into harness bars about 9 months ago and ended up getting a half cage with harness bar. I found that a good harness bar was going to be $600-700, and a half cams approved cage with paperwork was a bit over $900 from Fabraications.

For the extra couple of hundred I also have roll over protection and a stiffer chassis. All my squeaks and rattles have gone. It feels like a brand new car!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...