Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Economy For 250Rwkw+


V28VX37
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I did a quick search but couldn't find much on fuel economy so I thought I'd post this up.

I've got an R34 GTT auto with a recently installed Hypergear ATR43SS2 and supporting mods (full list here), currently running 257rwkw.

I always keep track of my fuel expenses and I measure consumpsion by filling up fully every time and noting down the odo reading. Here's an overview:

  • Completely stock 150rwkw, overall average of 12.2 litres/100km over 8,000 kms
  • Stock turbo with upped boost and Nistune with supporting mods 199rwkw, overall average of 11.9 litres/100km over 18,000kms

I've only filled up the car the three times since having the Hypergear installed, however the average consumption is currently sitting at 16.4 litres/100km. Granted it's been a lot of city driving but it's still a pretty silly figure.

What kind of economy (litres/100km) are you guys getting out of your 250rwkw+ setups?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not really that silly. what did you think was going to happen?

Umm, I expected maybe a 20% increase in fuel consumption? My previous car with a 5.7 litre LS1 and 293rwkw drank an average of 16.9 l/100km, just as another reference point.

But yeah keen to hear what others are getting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time to hybridise? - jk

Tuner says? - srsly

Right foot in stop/start traffic? - srsly

Me with 320wKw? In my country town and driving gently, I use 12.8 l/100Km. In nearby hairpins, it goes up to 20...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modified cars and GTR ownership isn't measured in miles per gallon but smiles per gallon. The more you use the more you get. ( legally of course ). Cough.

If you can't afford the petrol you can't afford the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I'm not complaining, just trying to work out what I should expect in terms of fuel consumption and if there's something I could improve in my setup, tune or driving style.

Coincidentally, there is a recent thread on the LS1 forums with people reporting their gas mileage, which I found quite useful. It confirms that city driving/low speeds really kill the economy with high powered cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...