Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy: Stop Hicas Warning Light (Without Bulb Removal)


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I know all you guys usually remove your HICAS warning light from your cluster but that involves more effort.

I have another quicker solution, and is 100% proven.

On the HICAS ECU, there's a specific PIN for the dash warning light. All you need to do is snip it, easy as!

How it connects up:

84574d1362540516-japanese-masterpiece-ni

ECU Schematics:

84396d1362399054-japanese-masterpiece-ni

So all you need to do it go cut PIN 15 on the HICAS ECU (larger one in the boot). PIN 15 is a GREEN WIRE with a WHITE STRIPE. You can locate it look at the backside of the harness, it's on the bottom row, 3rd pin from all the larger 4 wires.

Bye bye HICAS light :)

P.S. thanks http://www.theautomotiveindia.com for the images.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All I did was completely unplug the smaller of the 2 plugs on the (R32) HICAS control unit. HICAS de-activated. No dash light (obviously enough).

I haven't looked at an R33 HICAS CU to see if the plugs are the same as R32. From the diagram above it looks like they're not.

Anyway, make sure you know what model car you're playing with is all I'm saying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noticed HICAS light was on getting it back after my suspension was checked out.....

I have a HICAS lock out bar & also an aftermarket Momo steering wheel. I know these cam cause the light to come up on my dash but it was never on when I got the car.

Power steering fluid is fine.

That's all I have checked.. I know this will obviously stop the light coming on, but why did it come on in the first place?

93 r32 gtst type m

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's easy. I'm willing to bet that the boss kit for your steering wheel does not have a drive for the steering angle sensor. Guaranteed to lead to HICAS fault. If you didn't have a lock bar in, it would also lead to your car driving down the road sideways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's easy. I'm willing to bet that the boss kit for your steering wheel does not have a drive for the steering angle sensor. Guaranteed to lead to HICAS fault. If you didn't have a lock bar in, it would also lead to your car driving down the road sideways.

Sorry, that still left me with quite a dull look on my face..

So I need to get a steering angle sensor?

I don't even know what a boss kit is... Is that like the extension for the column?

Sorry guys, I'm an idiot :/

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah. Hubs to suit R32 have a pin/dowel thingo that sticks into the angle sensor and drives it around so the HCU knows what you're doing with the wheel. I was under the assumption that all the HICAS cars had to have it - assuming that the steering angle sensor was in the same place for all cars. It's the most obvious place to put it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet, thanks for clearing that up guys. I like pictures.

So solution is this adapter or disabling the light altogether.

I think you need those to work for your atessa system to work properly too. Don't quote me though could be wrong

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No. When I got my car in from Japan it had the same wheel and boss on it that is there now. But it would do the strange "crank-on-30°-of-steering-angle-after-10-minutes-of-driving-once-you-went-over-80km/h" thing that they do when they don't have the steering angle sensor. My boss doesn't have it. So after fiddling about a bit I worked out my fix, which was to disconnect the smaller of the two plugs from the HICAS CU. Worked a treat. My power steering has otherwise always been completely normal.

Even now, 13 years later, with the whole HICAS gear ripped out of the car (including the rear subframe) I still have the HICAS CU under the parcel shelf, still plugged in to the larger of the two plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit of a tangent, but has anyone experienced the steering wheel "kicking"? As in, the R32 goes from light to heavy steering above a certain speed. Obviously it's malfunctioning and 'kicking in' when I drive around town (annoying and dangerous). My car always has this issue. Disconnecting the smaller plug from HICAS computer only lessens the frequency of the 'kick'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like you have a problem separate to HICAS as such. If the "weight" of the steering changes, it is possibly because the solenoid on the rack is opening and closing (when it shouldn't). I had it go heavy for a while when my O2 sensor committed suicide and took out the loom. That loom also included the wiring for the power steering. So you can see that there are a few non-obvious ways that this might occur.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it's so damn annoying :(. Funnily enough, I replaced my 02 sensors with new ones, no difference to steering! Hahaha.

It's definitely electrical. I'm thinking grounding/voltage issue causing solenoid to go spastic. The 4WD relay in the boot clicks as well, lights dim (big current draw). Fricken R32s. With the HICAS computer plugged in, it's horrible to drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...