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Front Mount Intercooler In A N/a Worth It?


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morning giggles.

this thing is still a turbo.

na wont even beet a daihatsu. just ask captain natro.

A normal NA will.... Just

A de turboed low comp inlet restricted *read intercooled* rb won't.... And id put money on it

The diahatsu would make it look stupid, as will.... Basically everything, probley even a NA CA18 s13 auto lol

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OP, don't listen to the idiots in this thread, I'd be willing to bet that your car IS in fact a low comp N/A (turbo removed) and furthermore, an intercooler is definitely a wise investment to make your non turbo car faster.

In most instances, a low compression non turbo motor will eat high comp N/A motors due to the simple fact that the less compression there is, the easier the pistons can move up and down. The less compression, the harder you can push the car!

Why do you think people lower the compression when they turbo N/A cars? People tell you that it's to cope with the boost, but that's just misinformed garbage.

High comp is a power killer. It's harder for the pistons to move up and down, end of story. A trick that some savvy modders and most decent engine builders use is to even remove an exhaust valve from each pot just to get things moving quicker.

Now, onto the intercooler...

You've got a great performing (from the sound of it anyway :) ) low comp car. How can you get it to go even faster? You cool the air going into it with an intercooler.

You're going to need 3 main things and a few other odds and ends to get it all together.

1. The thickest intercooler you can find, the more volume, the better.

2. A throttle body

3. A pod filter

Now, what you're going to do is fit the intercooler in a place that's going to get a lot of airflow. Ideally you'd mount it in front of your bumper bar, but that's not going to go down well with the cops, so mount it behind it, just hack the front bar up a lot!

On the intake side of the cooler, fit the pod. Make sure air can get to the pod easy enough, PVC pipe comes in handy here if you want to make a duct for increased performance :)

On the other side of the cooler, you're going to get some silicone piping and join the throttle body onto the cooler, and then run more piping straight up to the throttle body on your intake manifold.

Now, why are we doing this you ask? What is the point of the other throttle body? Well, it's simple.

You don't NEED a turbo to generate boost. Sure, it helps, but there are other ways that are efficient and legal for a P plater.

Without the throttle body, the air would just run through the cooler and into the intake. Sure, it would be an efficient cold air intake, but we are hunting for more power here and that's where the throttle body comes in.

The throttle body will remain shut until the intercooler has reached its maximum capacity, and the the air will force it open as you increase in speed and the cooler is full. This will force the cold air straight into your engine.

This method is good enough for generating around 6 psi of boost. It's a damn good amount of boost when you consider you're not wasting energy spooling up a turbo or running a supercharger!

Your car will be chirping second like no tomorrow, you'll be the envy of your mates and you'll leave those pesky cops gob smacked when they think they've got a p plater driving a turbo and you prove them wrong. There's nothing quite as satisfying as that!

If you need anymore information about how to set this up, just post in this thread. I'll check it. Please update with pics, we need some more natural boost threads around here.

Hope this helps!

Edited by kawasakirider
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Sorry for sharing the truth man, I'm just sick of all these turbo wankers thinking that N/A's are slow when there easy to get great power out of.

Turbos aren't the be all, end all of performance.

Your preaching to the choir here man, I love natros

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Ah man... Kwaka man I love the effort you put into that, but I swear posts like that are what breed the next generation of simpletons!

Idk what you mean, mate. My methods are tried and proven. :)

Foxy Box, your car looks great. It'd look fantastic with a big shiny cooler with a pod hanging off the end of it. Do it and post results!

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Are you sure it turbo to start with mate? It has 4 stud hubs and those rear rotors look a bit small, but its hard to tell from the pic.

Do me a favor and have a look behind the plenum next to the AAC valve and tell me if there is a nipple for a vacuum line if it doesn't it was probably never turbo.

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Idk what you mean, mate. My methods are tried and proven. :)

Foxy Box, your car looks great. It'd look fantastic with a big shiny cooler with a pod hanging off the end of it. Do it and post results!

Thank you Kawasakirider, I think it might happen eventually, maybe closer to getting the turbo put in.

Are you sure it turbo to start with mate? It has 4 stud hubs and those rear rotors look a bit small, but its hard to tell from the pic.

Do me a favor and have a look behind the plenum next to the AAC valve and tell me if there is a nipple for a vacuum line if it doesn't it was probably never turbo.

I'll check it out tomorrow.

I also spotto four stud hubs... Is probley a factory NA which would exlplain why it's not misserably slow, and having 4.11 diff gears its jump off the line fast ish

Seems to have power behind it, however comparing it to the only other skyline I've been in, no, no power haha.

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Thank you Kawasakirider, I think it might happen eventually, maybe closer to getting the turbo put in.

Why not do it now and just enjoy the extra power until you've got a full licence? The power gains to be had with an intercooled naturally boosted CAI set up in an N/A are phenomenal when you consider how hard it is to get power out of an N/A.

Everything you use will be used again in the future when you turbo it.

Everyone is right, your car does look like a factory N/A, so it will have higher compression which means it won't be as fast/torquey as a low comp motor without the compression restricting it, but with my write up you can get a hell of a lot more power man :)

For even more gains you can remove your air flow meter, gut it and reinstall it. The AFM is only a restriction really. Literally a 10-15 minute job if you've got a big ass screwdriver to smash the guts out of it with and you'll gain 15 or so HP and your car will rev up much faster.

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