Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbos, Manifolds, Brakes, Electronics, Seats, Wheels, Koyo Radiator Always Adding Items


Recommended Posts

I have to start selling some of the stuff that I wont be using in the near term to fund a rebuild of my daily driver.

Item: Gizzmo Launch Interface (IGN Cut), Gizzmo Dual stage Shift Light, Adapter Loom for RB25

Very good condition. Will run on just about any RB.

Comes with adaptor loom, original packaging and manuals. I am selling it as my new ECU will do all this for me and want to simplify the wiring behind my kick panel. Price: $350ono $310ono

Item: Momo Kevlar Race Seats with head wings. I have two, one has the middle wing cut off. (pictured below) Well past their FIA expirey but can still run it for club events or on your Playstation smile.gif The seat that has one of its head restraints clipped is signed by Jason Bright and is his actual ex-HRT seat

Selling both seats, one comes with alloy Momo side mounts and also Bride rail. Bride rail is rather rubbish. It has been gusseted but really needs futher bracing OR used as a template to make your own frame using stronger steel

Price: $700 firm for both seats

MOMOSEAT.jpg

Interior.jpg

Item: Alcon Mono6 calipers

These are not the same as those sold by PWR or the kits you generally see. They take a max rotor of 365 x 32mm. These Alcons are the model up which look the same to most people however take 376-410mm rotors that are 35mm thick. These are the best of Alcons street range of caliper but suitable to their motorsport range of rotors. Typical application of these calipers is Prodrive prepared GT4 cars

Immaculate condition

Price: $2400 firm (for $4300 will supply with 380x35mm rotors/hats with billet mounts. You will need to supply lines and pads, will take about 2-3 weeks to build up the kit)

Item: Genuine Trust T67-25G

Does not come with a turbine housing. Can supply Greddy 8cm or 10cm housing at additional cost, but figure most people will use on a T3 style manifold so going to keep the Greddy specific 3 bolt turbine housings. Brand new, never used. (Can get whatever sized T3 housing off Kando/ebay for $150)

Price: $1800 firm

gallery_462_50_100550.jpg

gallery_462_50_25736.jpg

gallery_462_50_33480.jpg

Item: Genuine Trust TD06H-25G turbo

With 10ch Greddy 3 bolt turbone housing. Only done dyno work so like new (Can get whatever sized T3 housing off Kando/ebay for $150 if you want to run T3 rather than Greddy 3 bolt type housing)

Price: $1650 firm

gallery_462_50_155372.jpg

gallery_462_50_107117.jpg

gallery_462_50_77937.jpg

gallery_462_50_231537.jpg

Item: Genuine NEW Tomei 82mm RB24 pistons

Increase bore to 82mm. Part No. 1112820112. To be used in conjunction with RB26 crank and rods to make an RB24

Price: $1450 ono

gallery_462_50_68212.jpg

gallery_462_50_10453.jpg

gallery_462_50_66853.jpg

gallery_462_50_273301.jpg

Item: Tomei RB20DET Poncams

Near new and come with original packaging

Price: $700ono

gallery_462_50_26732.jpg

gallery_462_50_17572.jpg

Item: Tomei RB20DET / VG30DETT Valve Springs

For use with Procams or 10.35mm lift cams.

Price: $350 ono

gallery_462_50_183477.jpg

gallery_462_50_230844.jpg

Item: Volk GT-P rims

Rears are 17 x 9 +22, fronts are 17x8 +16. Good to fair condition, always planned to re clear coating them as there are marks on the clear coat. But just sitting around taking up space. Can take pics on demand

Price: $1100 ono

Indicative pic below...note: picture is not of the actual rim

32520d1054048383-18-volk-gt-p-staggered-19-tire-set-19-velox-staggered-volk-gtp.jpg

Item: HKS RB20/25 cast iron low mount manifold

No gate, but comes with HKS folded sheet heat shield. Like many has a small crack in the divider at the flange that bolts to the turbo. Wont be gutted if this doesn't sell as this is something that if I clear some of the other bits first will be removed from sale

SOLD Price: $500 ono SOLD

Item: Brembo F40 R32/33 kit

Brembo F40 calipers with Endless pads, 332x32 cross drilled rotors that are in good condition. Comes with lines and mounts etc. Have had this laying around as a spare kit for when I am playing with brakes on the car as they have proven to be the baseline for what I think make a great basis of comparison too.

Price: $2100ono

Item: Koyo R32 GTR Radiator

Brand new , unopened and still in box.

Price: $600

Prefer pick ups but happy to arrange postage at buyers expense

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will get some pics of wheels up this weekend now that I have found my camera. In the meantime I have also got some Sard 700cc injectors. Brand new, still in sealed bags and boxes. Don't need them anymore as not going E85. I know diddly squat about injectors but bought these because I was told they are nice to tune and have better spray patterns then most

Item: SARD 700cc GTR/RB26 injectors

SOLD Price: $720onoSOLD (I can't remember what I paid for them but pretty sure it was a fair wack more then asking price)

gallery_462_50_159401.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its only one wheel but failry typical of the wheels. No/minor gutter rash and general good condition. However clear coat can do with a once over.

gallery_462_50_101538.jpg

Also have a complete R32 RB25DE that is freshly rebuilt that I want $1700 for along with an R33 RB25 gearbox that I want $1400 for. The R33 gearbox came out of a std car with std clutch that was bought and torn apart so the shell could be used for a drag car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some more info on the RB25DE:

RB25 NA head from an R32

1.5mm oil restrictor in head

Standard RB25 crank

Upgraded Valves and springs

- New Water Pump

- Following bits have less than 5,000kms

Gates Timing belt

Oil pump

Forged Rods

Forged Pistons and rings

ARP Headstuds

Metal Headgasket

I bought the engine because I needed a complete head, and have not even taken the sump off the engine to see if the internals were as per the claim. The engine does have a head gasket, does have ARP head studs etc from inspecting it,

If someone wants the engine, one of the Trust turbos and HKS manifold then will do a price in order to move it all...even better if you want the RB25 box and Exedy twin plate clutch with it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, Roy

Interested in the pair of old Momo seats for GTR33 track car ( club sprint). I am 168cm and 63kg, looking at the pics, it should be narrow enough to have a snug fit. May I have the pic and condition of the passenger seat and rail. Would appreciate if you can post the weight of each seat please. pm or sms/call 0433878905

Any idea of the freight cost ( E-Go ??) to 3195 Braeside Vic ?

thanks

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the hks mani t3 or t4??

My understanding the HKS Manifold is T3 flange.

With the Brembo kit, is that designed to fit a gtst? Will it fit an R33? Is it just a front pair or set of 4?

Cheers,

The R32/33 GTST/GTR all accept the same kits. The difference is in the suitability to the master cylinder your car runs. If you run an R32 GTSt BMC or even worse an R33 BMC you may find that with a racey pad the brakes are a little too bitey and you may want to uprade to a larger BMC from an R33 GTR to drop the brake line pressure for the same pedal effort

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a search in Braking and suspension thread as it has been discussed before. But with brakes more is often not better, and bigger is not always better. When looking at brakes the two things you have to remember are P=F/A or Pressure = Force / Area and F=uN or Friction = Friction coefficient x Normal Force

So Assuming you apply the same brake pressure force to your brake pedal....the bigger the BMC the larger the denominator. The larger the denominator the lower the Pressure. That pressure is effectively (N) which correlates to the second equation F=uN so the lower the pressure the lower the force on the back of the brake pad (N) which means you have lower friction levels. This means you require more pedal effort. This is important to understand as big calipers with big pistons give you more braking force and you need to lower the pressure applied to them otherwise you end up with a light switch as a brake pedal and that means frequent brake lock ups and poor modulation.

So its all about balance...and running a setup with more thermal dissipation with regards to bigger pads and rotors and then size caliper pistons and BMC to ensure you still have good feel and modulation. (ie, bigger rotors increase braking torque as well as heat dissipation...so all things being equal if you go up in rotor size then to maintain balance you can go down in caliper piston size so as not to mess with braking bias)

LOL, this is a for sale thread. Do a search and do your homework to make sure you understand what you are buying...if you buy big brakes thinking you will stop quicker you are mistaken...if you want to stop quicker go buy better tyres and suspension to stop quicker...big brakes to stop as well the 10th time as you did the 1st time (consistency)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a search in Braking and suspension thread as it has been discussed before. But with brakes more is often not better, and bigger is not always better. When looking at brakes the two things you have to remember are P=F/A or Pressure = Force / Area and F=uN or Friction = Friction coefficient x Normal Force

So Assuming you apply the same brake pressure force to your brake pedal....the bigger the BMC the larger the denominator. The larger the denominator the lower the Pressure. That pressure is effectively (N) which correlates to the second equation F=uN so the lower the pressure the lower the force on the back of the brake pad (N) which means you have lower friction levels. This means you require more pedal effort. This is important to understand as big calipers with big pistons give you more braking force and you need to lower the pressure applied to them otherwise you end up with a light switch as a brake pedal and that means frequent brake lock ups and poor modulation.

So its all about balance...and running a setup with more thermal dissipation with regards to bigger pads and rotors and then size caliper pistons and BMC to ensure you still have good feel and modulation. (ie, bigger rotors increase braking torque as well as heat dissipation...so all things being equal if you go up in rotor size then to maintain balance you can go down in caliper piston size so as not to mess with braking bias)

LOL, this is a for sale thread. Do a search and do your homework to make sure you understand what you are buying...if you buy big brakes thinking you will stop quicker you are mistaken...if you want to stop quicker go buy better tyres and suspension to stop quicker...big brakes to stop as well the 10th time as you did the 1st time (consistency)

Gotcha, thanks for the info ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the koyo rad triple core?

Good thing I ripped it out of the packaging. It seems it wasn't what I was told it was...looking at the part number its a std replacement radiator rather then alloy. A tad pissed off that I got touched up but glad I realised before passing it on

Part Number is PA020214

http://www.koyorad.co.jp/images/main/products/koyoradracing_lineup.pdf

http://www.koyorad.co.jp/shop/22_63.html

gallery_462_50_247825.jpg

gallery_462_50_27458.jpg

Since the thing isnt what I was told, will take$450

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...