Centre Diff Locking And Binding Diffs Ay Low Speed

[ant0ny]

Hi, I have developed a problem with my Stagea 4WD (4spd Auto). At low speed say turning into a car park or reversing into a car space the diffs lock up and make a horrible sounds and a jerky movement or binding.

Now this used to happen when I had left the button switched to 4WD if say I was driving in heavy rain and when I reached the destination, still in 4WD and start to reverse into a park but I would immediately turned off 4WD and it would reverse nicely again with no binding.

The weird thing is it doesn't always happen. I could do a complete 20km trip with all the elements and it would be fine... then hop in the car and it would do it straight off. At first it was every now and then... but the frequency is getting more often.

I have bled the Attessa hydraulics which seemed to go fine... the pump seemed to react as expected while bleeding it.

I plugged in the USB Consult plug and checked... there are no fault codes.

I am thinking a wheel sensor or one of the G sensors but how do I check these? I do have complete R32 GTR Skyline sitting here for parts if they are computable.

Ideas? suggestions and details on how to check wheel sensors and G sensors would be good if anyone has a source.

[Chris Rogers]

can you get live data with your lead?

wheel speeds can be pulled off the ABS stream IF you can access it. G sensor I'm not sure on. I can tell you that R32 vs C34 that a few things are different . the G sensor under the armrest is one of them. that you can check visually as it has a inspection mark on it that is supposed to be clear. if red then its had it.

I see you are in brissy. if you feel like a drive I can plug a scan tool into it.

[ant0ny]

can you get live data with your lead?

wheel speeds can be pulled off the ABS stream IF you can access it. G sensor I'm not sure on. I can tell you that R32 vs C34 that a few things are different . the G sensor under the armrest is one of them. that you can check visually as it has a inspection mark on it that is supposed to be clear. if red then its had it.

I see you are in brissy. if you feel like a drive I can plug a scan tool into it.

Thanks Chris... I don't see anything to do with ABS in the software so maybe a scan tool would be a better check. Do I just remove the armrest to look at the G sensor?

What are your weekly movements I am flexible in my job and can get away just about any time of any day between 8 and 3pm... I have 3 year old to get from Dcare in the arvos. Monday arvo's are clear and this Friday I am off.

[Chris Rogers]

shoot me some details (where are you ? phone number etc.) . mondays are usually ok . fridays are out due to other commitents. I know I can get live data out of it with my diagun so that may be the go.

G sensor: yep pull that off and have a squiz.

[KiwiRS4T]

No point in pushing the awd button when it is raining. Its only for low speed such as pulling out of a wet paddock or a snowbound car park At speed ( I think something over 20km/hr) the Atessa computer takes over anyway and will feed power to the front wheels as appropriate.

[ant0ny]

Yeah Kiwi I only just read that recently searching for answers to my problems.

Well I was going to remove the console... but absolutely pissing down here... I'll do it tomorrow now and report back.

[ant0ny]

Ok removed the console and looked at the G sensor.

The Shock Indicator is not red. Is this all I am looking for?

[Chris Rogers]

thats it. if it was dead that would be red.

see you sunday after I get rid of a R34. from there we can go for a strap on the back roads and I can log this thing to see why it does what it does.

[ant0ny]

thats it. if it was dead that would be red.

see you sunday after I get rid of a R34. from there we can go for a strap on the back roads and I can log this thing to see why it does what it does.

Sounds like a plan.

[ant0ny]

FYI problem sorted a while back. As far as I can work out... when the gearbox was changed last year by myself I of course had to re-bleed the Attesa pump system... I f**ked up and used the wrong oil which mixed with the existing oil and eventually worked it's way closser to the actuator... with it being thicker oil (we think diff oil) it would hold the 4wd on for some time after.

Replaced all the oil with the right stuff and it is perfect again.

Lesson: don't put oils in unmaked containers and work in the dark and unsatisfactory work shop or my case the shed floor.

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks for the feedback - always good to know what the problem was.

[SLIXK]

I’m having the same issue.. when parking etc, but when the issue (4wd lock?) it makes the car vibrate under acceleration, I’m pretty sure who ever did my auto-manual conversion also used the wrong oils maybe? Could it be worth it for me to try this solution.

Mine is also rs4v, I’ve never had this issue till post manual conversion.