Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline R32 Gtst - Installing R32 Gtr Aluminium Bonnet Properly Using Gtr Latch


Les000X
 Share

Recommended Posts

Skyline R32 GTSt - Installing R32 GTR Aluminium Bonnet Properly Using GTR Latch

- Les Lothringer's Approach to properly Replacing Skyline R32 GTSt Steel Bonnet with GTR Aluminium Bonnet and correct GTR Latch & Mounting Bracket.

Adapting the GTSt Mounting Bracket is not advised. Refer below "What Can Go Wrong".

- Parts: In addition to R32 GTR Aluminium Bonnet and Grill, R32 GTR Bonnet Latch & Mounting Bracket Assembly, 2 of M8 x 1.25 35mm or other length bolts as necessary (refer below), flat washers and lock washers for supporting aftermarket Intercooler.

- Special Tools: Panel Shop Clip Remover.

- Other Equipment: One original R32 GTR alongside for handy reference, Vernier, Hydraulic Trolley Jack, Axle Stands or Wooden Blocks or both, Screwdrivers, 1/2" Extension Drives, 1/2" Sockets, Painting Materials.

- Costs: GTR Aluminium Bonnet and Grill typically 450 - $750 second hand. GTR Bonnet Latch & Mounting Bracket typically $100 or about $300 new from Nissan. Costs are 2011 A$'s Melbourne prices. My GTR Bonnet - $550 painted. GTR Grill - $100 painted.

- Duration: 4 hours one person to remove / install Bonnet, Plastic Bumper, aftermarket Intercooler, Latch & Mounting Bracket. Panel Shop repainted Bonnet / Grill. I surface restored 2nd hand GTR Bonnet Latch & Mounting Bracket. I also had one unmodded R32 GTR next to GTSt to ensure correct setup on GTSt.

- Difficulty Level: Fairly Easy. Check below for what can go wrong. Pay attention to Point 5.

- Disclaimer: This describes my approach to installing the GTR Bonnet & Latch Assembly to also support an aftermarket Intercooler. If you choose to follow it and screw it up following this approach, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or omissions. Every car can be different. Torque settings as per Nissan R32 GTR WSM.

- Reference: Nissan R32 GTR Workshop Manual.

- What Can Go Wrong: The method described at April 2005 post, using R32 GTSt Mounting Bracket rather than correct R32 GTR Mounting Bracket, is unsatisfactory, does not follow sound engineering principles, renders the vehicle unroadworthy and will not work with some aftermarket Intercoolers.

Refer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/71448-fitting-r32-gtr-bonnet-to-gts-t-without-new-latch/

This approach not recommended - refer next note.

Differences GTR to GTSt Bonnet Latch & Mounting Bracket:

a. GTR Bonnet Latch has shorter hood safety release lever to avoid interference with GTR Grill.

b. The Mounting Bracket top flange is 1.5 cm narrower, front to rear. This difference is important - enables the Latch to intersect with the GTR Bonnet Striker. GTR Bonnet Striker is further back and higher than under GTSt Bonnet. So, the above post method of using / relocating a GTSt Bracket both moves back and raises the Mounting Bracket by altering all three bolt points, leaving two points unbolted and the structure weak.

Not a clever outcome. I would be beware of buying a GTSt with GTR Bonnet that did not have the correct GTR Latch Assembly.

Specifically: Leaving the Centrebolt off or redrilling will weaken the latch assembly. Wedging the Bracket on top of the bottom anchoring bolt cannot possibly be a solid fit.

That approach should not be followed.

Why? Because the Bracket is made from two pieces, with 2 x spot welds at the factory. The Centrebolt and the two bolts securing the Latch give structural rigidity to the Bracket and take up the loads, along with the spot welds. These three bolts are stronger than the two spot welds. This necessarily relies on the the bottom bolt to properly secure the Bracket and take any upward wind pressure on the bonnet.

Approach:

_____________________

1. Surface Finish Used GTR Bonnet Latch and Mounting Bracket.

a. 4 step process - paint stripper, rust remover, anti-rust primer, colour overcoats.

_____________________

2. Set Up.

a. Jack front of car on flat surface, secure under Chassis Rails or Towing Points with axle stands, timber blocks.

_____________________

3. Remove Body Parts.

a. GTR Bonnet: Disconnect washer tube, remove GTSt Bonnet 2 x 2 Hood Bolts, install GTR Bonnet, reconnect washer tube. Check operation.

b. Front Plastic Bar: Remove Indicator Lamps x 2 to access Front Bar Clips. Remove Wheel Arch Screws x 2, Plastic Clips across top / bottom of Bar. Use Panel Shop Clip Tool. Remove Front Plastic Bar.

c. Steel Crash Bar: Inside wheel arches, remove Bolts x 2, loosen Nuts x 2 but do not remove. Slide Crash Bar forward to remove.

d. Intercooler: Aftermarket front mount Intercoolers will vary in how mounted. Mine has a Horizontal Supporting Rail that bolts to the Bonnet Latch Centre Bolt - this supports the Intercooler from above and Bottom Brackets x 2 maintain alignment / rigidity. Remove the Bonnet Latch Centre Bolt, remove Intercooler hoses as necessary, bottom Intercooler support brackets and remove the Intercooler. This exposes the GTSt Bonnet Latch and Mounting Bracket.

e. Bonnet Latch: Unbolt from Mounting Bracket - Bolts x 2. Disconnect Bonnet Release Cable.

f. Mounting Bracket: Unclip Horn x 2 + Sensor x 1 leads, remove Horns. Unbolt Mounting Bracket - Bolts x 2 across top Radiator Support Rail, Bolt x 1 bottom front lower Radiator Support Rail.

_____________________

4. Install GTR Bonnet Latch, Mounting Bracket.

a. The reverse procedure.

b. Horns: Connect to each side to Mounting Bracket, next to Bonnet Latch.

c. GTR Mounting Bracket: Has a Flange to support the Centre Clip on the GTR Grill. This Flange interfered with the Intercooler Horizontal Support Rail. I removed the Flange. This means the GTR Grill is held in place by 2 x two Clips on the Headlights.

_____________________

5. Install Intercooler & Check Install of Grill.

Intercooler: This was the trickiest part.

a. Horizontal Support Rail: Bolts to Centrebolt of Mounting Bracket. This bolt, plus the two that support the Latch also give strength to the entire Mounting Bracket. None of these should be altrered or left off.

b. The Mounting Bracket should take the vertical weight of the Intercooler. My Intercooler is supported by the Centre Bolt on the Mounting Bracket. To correctly align the Intercooler and have the load taken up by the Mounting Bracket requires bolts off the Horizontal Support Rail of the correct length plus washers as necessary. Refer photos. I placed a trolley jack under the Intercooler and jacked it to bring it to the best position to attach to the Horizontal Suppor Rail, already bolted to the Centrebolt of the Mounting Bracket.

Use a Vernier for the measurements - depth of bolt holes in top Intercooler mounting points, thickness of Intercooler support rail and necessary gaps requiring Spacers and Lock Washers to determine the bolt length. I used 2 of M8 x 1.25 35 mm but each situation may vary.

c. GTR Grill: Clips onto Headlights - 2 Clips each side plus a centre clip off the Mounting Bracket unless you need to remove it. GTR and GTSt Headlights are the same.

_____________________

6. Install Crash Bar, Bumper Bar, Indicator Lights, GTR Grill.

a. Check lights, horns, washers work.

b. Check bonnet lock down / release operation and alignment and ensure Bonnet Safety Hook works. See photos.

_____________________

7. Torque Settings ft-lb average [from WSM].

Hood Bolts - 13 ft.lbs. Lock Mounting Bracket Bolts - 18 ft.lbs. Crash Bar Bolts / Nuts - 22 ft.lbs.

_____________________

post-81011-0-43608700-1305460526_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-18061700-1305460580_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-96993800-1305460612_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-47341400-1305460653_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-80525300-1305460679_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-17762400-1305460706_thumb.jpg

post-81011-0-64857100-1305460746_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Where did you source your parts? Prices seems reasonable. Last time i check a normal condition gtr bonnet will cost around 700 or more from wreckers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you source your parts? Prices seems reasonable. Last time i check a normal condition gtr bonnet will cost around 700 or more from wreckers.

yes i need to source GTR bonnet latch, but cant find anywhere!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Jon,

I have no idea if you are still looking to do this.

Sourcing all these parts is not easy, especially the GTR Mounting Bracket and Bonnet Latch.

I got the Bonnet and Grill from a recycler who just advertised it - 1st in best dressed.

Got the Bracket and Latch from a Dealer / Importer who I knew and also knew he had a GTR rusting in the yard behind the office.

All parts can be sourced from Nissan new but ex-Japan is of course very expensive.

Hope that helps - - - Les.

Where did you source your parts? Prices seems reasonable. Last time i check a normal condition gtr bonnet will cost around 700 or more from wreckers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...
1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

Thread is 9 years old. Photos work desktop btw.

When dealing with cars that are 30 years old, some forum posts with tutorials are going to be ancient. Just call me the necromancer lol

 

Also I didn't know pics showed on desktop, thank you. The pics were linking from google images but on the mobile forums not showing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...