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G-Zone For M35S


bigkevracer
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Turned out to be not neccesary at all. Actually there's a lot of stuff going on around here that's not neccesary IMO... But sometimes just spending the money is half the fun & it keeps the economy ticking over, so it's not all bad.

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Turned out to be not neccesary at all. Actually there's a lot of stuff going on around here that's not neccesary IMO... But sometimes just spending the money is half the fun & it keeps the economy ticking over, so it's not all bad.

Because of the wire snip mod?

How about to sort out the A/F?

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Leon has his own little DIY interceptors and mods which allow him to do that tuning. He's tried explaining them but I can't really get my head around it without seeing it.

Wire snip gets rid of throttle restriction, but nothing gets rid of the speed restriction short of Nismo, Impul or G-Zone remapped ECUs, and in theory F-con or Haltech PS2000. Still, 180km/h should be plenty fast enough for most people...

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.... 180km/h should be plenty fast enough for most people...

Sorry, I should have clarified. If you want to go to the track or live where you won't get locked up for driving faster than 170km/h, then you will need something else.

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Leon has his own little DIY interceptors and mods which allow him to do that tuning. He's tried explaining them but I can't really get my head around it without seeing it.

Wire snip gets rid of throttle restriction, but nothing gets rid of the speed restriction short of Nismo, Impul or G-Zone remapped ECUs, and in theory F-con or Haltech PS2000. Still, 180km/h should be plenty fast enough for most people...

*cough* :) *cough* :ph34r:

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Anyone feel free to complete this sentence:

The best solution for someone that is happy doing under 171kmh, with a front mount, dump and exhaust is.....

:laugh:

G-zone or leons things.

Depending if you want more power...

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Well I did the brake wire mod to a mates M35 toady and we couldn't pick the difference from before and after. We ended up rejoining it.

Seriously couldn't pick the difference???

Did you try the "launch" test? That's really the only way to tell. On my car it was really obvious if the brake wire was disconnected or not. Do a test with, then straight away a test without & let us know.

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I stalled it up and launched it a few times and couldnt notice any difference, neither could my mate. We both noticed a heap more when I fitted a plenum spacer to mine.

I might try it on mine one day and double check but after the feel of his I'm in no hurry.

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With the stock turbo it wouldn't be that noticable, remember they come on at 2k. With a highflow it makes a huge difference.

The best thing about the wire snip is coming out of corners on full throttle. Drive it around for a few days, not just a poofy launch or two. :P

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With the stock turbo it wouldn't be that noticable, remember they come on at 2k. With a highflow it makes a huge difference.

The best thing about the wire snip is coming out of corners on full throttle. Drive it around for a few days, not just a poofy launch or two. :P

says the gaylord!yes.gif

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With the stock turbo it wouldn't be that noticable, remember they come on at 2k. With a highflow it makes a huge difference.

The best thing about the wire snip is coming out of corners on full throttle. Drive it around for a few days, not just a poofy launch or two. :P

I'm running the stock turbo & it's still very noticeable on my car. And as Scotty said, not just a "poofy" launch, but driving out of corners as well (roundabouts can get particularly fun now).

However, the launch is an easy way to do a back-to-back comparison.

For example, with my brake wire connected, when I hold the brake on and floor the accelerator, the engine revs to stall (can't remember exact rpm) and just sits there waiting for me to release the brake.

With the brake wire cut doing the same thing, after a few seconds the back wheels (well probably just one, lol) starts spinning and the take off is much more violent with tyres scrabbling for traction. Very easy to spot the difference.

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Its simple, cut the wire, extend it to the dash somewhere and fit a switch you can hit while braking. That will reset the CEL and eventual limp mode. Another way would be to run a little relay off the foot handbrake.

Yeah off of the footbrake is more what I was thinking about. Basically the wire needs to be "uncut" and the brake pedal pressed to reset the CEL/limp mode?

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