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Car Stalled And Won't Start, Turns Over, Has Spark And Fuel, Ideas?


Rolls
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also does anyone know where I could find the pinout for the ignition barell? I can do it by trial and error with a multi meter but I diagram would save time.

just tried the consult then and fault codes were CAS(12 starts) which was most likely when I twisted it by hand and tried starting it without it connected, cleared the code and will see what it says when I can figure out how to start it.

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Wires are all intact however when they snapped the steering lock it broke the pin in the barrel so you can put it on accessories etc but it won't let you turn it to start.

What do you mean separate the back of the barrel with the ignition switch? As in take follow the wires to the plug and do it manually? Or pull it apart somehow? If there is some way I can get around replacing it that would be swell.

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If you dismantle the barrel there is a simple trim pot type component that will separate from it that can be turned with a flat head screw driver. I dont see the information as sensitive as you would need a decent amount of time to get to it. Rolls, honestly I feel for you... You havent had a good run. Keep us updated on your position and parts needed as you go. Anything spare I have laying about is yours.

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Thanks for all the help everyone, muchly appreciated. :)

'luckily' my house mate has lost his license so I've registered his car and serviced it on the condition I can use it as a run about, a buggered 2.6L astron auto magna, so got plenty of time to sort this out, all the brake lights don't work though so I gonna prioritise fixing that first so I don't end up having an accident/fined by the cops as well next week.

Edited by Rolls
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I'm having trouble finding the phillips screw on the back of the barrel, can't really see anything so just going by feel, google image search wasn't much use either. Is it in the middle, left right anyone know?

edit: found it, pricks stole my small screw driver set in the glove box though so I've got no bloody screwdrivers that will fit in the gap AND ITS 5PM SO NOTHING IS OPEN

fml

Edited by Rolls
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Update:

Car was meant to be towed last night but he couldn't get there in time, anyway decided to go check it out with the consult cable with my mate, first I opened the bonnet and realised there was no longer a bonnet arm to hold it up, thought to myself weird why would anyone nick that.

Anyway then I see broken scissors on the ground and the door luck looks bent, open the door and there is the bonnet arm, so someone bent the window with it, snapped the steering lock, f**ked the ignition barrel then the geniuses realised it wasn't going to start so they stole the $60 for the towing guy marked x TOWING COMPANY, either they are stupid or got spooked cause they left all my tools, gps and amp.

So now I am going to have to replace ignition barrel and get it adjusted for old keys as well, sigh. I guess I can hotwire it in the time being to diagnose the actual fault.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement ignition barrel/steering lock mechanism? I'm guessing it has to be brand new due to the special shear bolts it uses.

Oh and to top it off the laptop went flat so we couldn't even check the consult, talk about kicking you when you are down.

that sucks mate. I bet you're fcking spewing the towie didn't get there. probably would have meant all this extra damage didn't happen. :( not a good run but hopefully it all gets fixed easily enough.

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197107_10150156047021834_562161833_8052541_6390321_n.jpg

snapped exhaust cam at cyl 1, all valves would have hit and been closed, pistons could be fine, but its likely they are all lunched.

will pull the head off and inspect, might be able to get away with just a new head, but expecting worst case scenario, bare engine is around $1-1.2k so not that expensive.

Oh well, thanks for all the advice everyone, will take pics if theres anything interesting to show when we pull the head off.

Anyone know how on earth the cam could snap like that? There was bugger all oil in there but bearing caps all look perfect, no discolouration or marks.

Edited by Rolls
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stock cam, rebuilt engine and head about 10,000kms ago with forgies and all the usual shit, $7.5k build, luckily I didn't pay a cent and got it with the car for only $11.5k

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Never seen one do that before. What may have happened is the cam caps were on incorrectly from the build or possible not tight or maybe the threads stripped. I have pulled apart many engines that have had stripped cam cap threads from previous engine builders. The worst ones even come with silicon to hold the bolt in place. Yeehaw!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am really tired and cbf reading it all but on R31's this exact problem is extremely common and it is almost always the CAS.

read up 3 posts and you can see my cam in 3 pieces lol

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got around to putting another cam in hope that it hadn't bent valves, only runs on 4 cycls with it in so new motor time now.

Figure by the time I take the head off, assuming the valves are only bent and the head isn't f**ked it will still be a $500-800 adventure so might as well just spend $1k on another block. Once I've got the engine out taking the head off will be easy and can see if its repairable or not.

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400 for a head... 60-80 for a face... prob solved ;)

Yeah thinking might pull the head off and see if its just the valves, there's a chance it has put a hole in a piston or worse though, in that case its a bin job.

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