Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Door Bumper


Nic_A31
 Share

Recommended Posts

I need to remove those rubber things that go on the outside of the doors.

Is it safe to just peel them off slowly or will it damage the paint?

Reason I wanna remove is they're turning yellow and extremely dirty and can't be cleaned.

Tips?

Pointers?

Full video walkthrough with pictures, music and boobs to keep me interested ?

Cheers

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

best with a metal string/guitar string/window take outerer , but a thin spatchuler and some heat (and some care) and a bottle/drum of wax and grease remover to get rid of the glue left over then some cut and polish to try and make the paint not look so mis-matched :) will do the trick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I did mine when i was paneling my car for paint. Im not sure id do it on a car that you were going to keep without touching the paint.The reason for this is that they get stiff and break and getting them off can be horribly hard. The glue is also bloody thick.

For me i got a paint scraper and got them off then used the paint scraper to get rid of most of the glue(it left a few scratches). I then tried thinners and this would have taken months so i sanded the glue off instead.

If you do remove them, just be carefull and allow a few hours to do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DUDE !!!!

NO!!!!!!!

please tell me you HAVENT taken them off..

sorry i dont come here that often!

they go yellow same as headlights... even brown.

if you want to get them back to BRAND NEW COLOUR

get some SIFA steel wool from bunnings, about $3 worth - wet it... and scrub it all off.

it literally comes back to brand new white. don't pull it off... it's old nerdy jap crap!!! YOU NEED IT!!!! haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i was 19 and first got my cefiro back in 2004 the first things i ever did was take the original window sheilds off..

...and the mud guards..

and replaced my bumpers with a wonder bodykit

...then years later found out how rare the "front lip" was...

...looking back i would have kept it stock bodied... with the guards... with the lip...

and just had it lowwwwwwwwwww...

but seriously. dont pull it off PLEASE

just use the steel wool method - on second thought - wet sanding will probably give similar outcome

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Bumping up an old topic here.

I did this to one door tonight.

Reason I did ONE door was because that door was Series 2 (black bumper, below the groove in the door), and the car is a Series 1 (body colored bumper, above the groove).

Pics of before and shitty quality pic of after.

Attracts less attention now.

192ob6.jpg

51q52w.jpg

Anyway, THE METHOD, in case anybody else digs this thread up in 20 years time and wants to know.

-HEAT! (I set up my 2x 500W work light about 1ft away from the car)

-Peel off the bumper, slowly.

-Apply shitloads of "Bug-Off" / Tar Remover. (Apparently can also use wax and grease remover)

-Scrape through the gluey shit with a razor blades.

-Don't try to take it all off in one run. I did 10-15 runs per working section (about 100mm)

-When it's down to less than 0.5mm or so, you can either scrape with your finger nail, maybe try steel wool, or in my case, just gently keep scraping with a razor blade, keeping the blade as flat to the panel as possible and applying even, easy pressure.

-Give it a quick clean with a hardcore foaming degreaser, so it removes all the dirt that lines the edges of where the bumper once was,

Rinse with water, and polish.

Amazingly enough, I can't notice a color difference between the exposed paint and what was underneath the bumper.

No sign of it EVER being there.

The only f**k up I made, was breaching the clear coat a couple of times with the razor, but that's easily fixed.

One door down, 3 to go.

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

never noticed the s2 bottom bump strips before, they look like poo so well done removing it :thumbsup:

the middle bump strip is the only exceptable one i'm still on the fence

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had both better and worse luck with the front.

I didn't breach the clear coat, at all. But there is a noticeable color difference....well not soo much the color, but the clear coat.

I'm at a cross-roads. Don't know weather I want to chuck that chrome lining back on when I've finished all 4, or keep them aside for the other Ceffy, OR sell them.

qraiqq.jpg

suy72a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

To avoid scraping your clearcoat, you could use a plastic applicator to scrape.. If you use a heat gun/hair dryer and consentrate the heat to behind the moulding, that will help also. Just dont hold it close or for a long extended amount of time. Thats what we use at work, always does the trick... The reason for a difference in colour could be the door/s where painted before and they just masked off the rubber moulding.. Or it could be the lack of sun its seen, meaning the door's paint has broken down quicker. Try a cut n polish, it 'might' fix it or at least make it less noticable..

If you wet rub it with some 2000, it will only fix it if it hasn't been painted before. (Meanin the clours are different and no polish will fix that)

Hope that helps too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you for explaining. Makes more sense now. I saw that diagram but wasnt sure if the MAC solenoid would use the same plumbing. So I just did what the stock looked like. Ill get that fixed. As for MAP sensor, When I place vacuum line from MAP to stock location vac reference ( port by BOV flange ) the car runs like crap. I think the port is clogged or something, cause when I moved the MAP line to plenum and connected the BOV to that line, I get compressor surge. This is why I moved MAP vacuum line to plenum where BOV is. Where can I T the MAP vacuum? Sources Ive read said to let MAP vacuum be its own and not to T.
    • You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime. The boost signal has to pass through the MAC valve from boost source (turbo outlet - effectively anywhere between the turbo outlet and the throttle body will do, but closer to the turbo outlet is best) to the wastegate. What you have done is connected it sort of like the stock solenoid. But it doesn't work the same way as the stock solenoid. That Tee piece that you have connected the solenoid to....? The solenoid itself serves that function. You should look up a typical MAC valve connection diagram for a single turbo internal wastegate application. You'll find one easily enough. Every single boost controller manufacturer that uses MAC valves will have one. Bugger it, I'll just grab the HP Academy one. The other thing you have to get right is that the boost source has to be connected to the correct port on the solenoid valve. This is because the solenoid makes the valve switch from connecting 2 of the ports when it is unpowered, to connecting one of those first 2 ports to the third port when it is powered. One inlet, two outlets. You will note from the diagram that the common port is port 3, the port to the wastegate is port 2, and port 1 is the vent (where the boost signal escapes when the solenoid pulses ON). As to the BOV.... the vacuum signal for the BOV simply has to come from the plenum. It must register boost when you're on boost and vacuum when the throttle is closed. That's all. The original location on the plenum is best. Best practice is never to interfere with the vacuum line running to the FPR. Just leave that one alone, as you will avoid causing unintended problems that might occur if you mess something up.
    • I was able to complete installation of the G4X ecu. I needed to reroute MAP vacuum signal from stock location to where BOV is connected on the intake plenum. Has anyone needed to do the same? When I connect vac port by the BOV flange to my HKS BOV, it doesnt work and I get flutter. I would to get BOV working, where would it be best to T in? Or would it best for me to move MAP vac line and T into FPR? Secondly, I installed a MAC 3 port boost solenoid and wanted to know if i routed it correctly. I place two lines from stock boost solenoid and placed it on ports 1 and 2, leaving 3 vented. The T for wastegate and boost source on compressor elbow is on port 2, and port 1 is connected to turbo inlet intake pipe. Please see attached pictures. Ill upload ecu config later today. Thanks in advance.
    • some people are still around weirdly enough - most people just use facebook now to ask the same 12 questions tho XD  
    • Omg Rezz! Yep we're still here and actually seeing a trickle of oldies coming back.  How's things? 
×
×
  • Create New...