Awesome to hear from someone who has done this. I'm reading the FSM and taking it slow but when someone has already plowed the field and their helpfull too, bonus. That was a question I was coming to and I was going to determine or try to determine if I was missing something when I put the clutch packs back in and measure, I was going to check gap again to see how far it was out.
I have to explain a little. I broke 2nd gear on my Route 6 tranny and had obtained an R33 GTR tranny earlier except the R33 tranny had gear oil in the transfer case. I cleaned the R33 tranny completely, checked for damage, and put it back together. I attached my transfer case from my the R32 tranny to the R33 tranny and I'm suing it now no problem. I've got a OS tranny coming minus the transfer case so I want to prepare this transfer case for this tranny
Did you use permatex to seal the case the manual states (sealing fluid 519 part #c1335 31x25) I used the black permatex on the other part of transmission to seal it and it works no problems no leaks yet.
Hey mate, just finished doing my transfer case with new plates, bearings, seals etc- when measuring the gap between the top clutch plate and ring you need to have the hydraulic ram installed also as it pushes on the pack when installed. The distance should be between 0.2-0.5mm on an R32. As far as I'm aware there is a small amount of preload on the R33 transfer. Not sure what else is different.
Watch that the clutch hub doesn't pop too far out (towards top of case) or the two retaining half circlips can pop out (undo the lot again to re-do)- that's why the manual suggests you put 2 small drops of retaining compound on the ring and half circlips when installing.
The bottom plate in the clutch pack set up is the 5mm one. If you need slome explaining or assistance in measuring the clearance for the shim between the top bearing on the clutch hub and the top plate let me know- I have a 1mm, 5mm and 6mm shims left over.
The heat pattern is also from the welding of the hub base.