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Resestting ECU


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Originally posted by GTR-80Y

i have also heard that to properly reset the ECU you need a proper diagnostic tool.

The proper diagnostic tool is a wire paper clip

The R33 method is to open the fuse pannel under the dash

you will see a grey connector pointing downwards, pick the two wires on their own in the plug (the ones closesed to you) turn on the ign put the paper clip in so it shorts the two wires for around two seconds (this puts the ecu in diag mode) remove paper clip.

the chk eng light on the dash will start flashing a set of codes turn the ign off & on again the ecu is now reset

benifits: no reprograming the radio or clock & no spanners sparking on the rear of the parcel shelf (killing the ecu's).

Regards DAMQIK

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Originally posted by DAMQIK GTS-T

The proper diagnostic tool is a wire paper clip

The R33 method is to open the fuse pannel under the dash

you will see a grey connector pointing downwards, pick the two wires on their own in the plug (the ones closesed to you) turn on the ign put the paper clip in so it shorts the two wires for around two seconds (this puts the ecu in diag mode) remove paper clip.

the chk eng light on the dash will start flashing a set of codes turn the ign off & on again the ecu is now reset  

benifits: no reprograming the radio or clock & no spanners sparking on the rear of the parcel shelf (killing the ecu's).

Regards DAMQIK

That sounds _very_ dodgey although it's probably right. I've been told that the ECU has a built in battery (button type) that even after disconnecting the battery will retain the ECU setup. So the only way is to flatten/remove that button battery or to short the ECU as described above. DAMQIK can you explain what the wires are and how it works?

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Originally posted by Grim

DAMQIK can you explain what the wires are and how it works?

Yes, one wire is an earth and the other a signal (to put the ecu in diags mode)

it dose the same as removing the passanger kick trim ,unbolting the ecu, turning it around and turning the little knob arround clockwise all the way with a fine screwdriver.

which BTW may be easyer if you are unsure about using a paper clip.

DAMQIK

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im too scared to do the paper clip one as i know what will end up happening... i'll electrocute myself! :P:D

now is it the same for R32/33 or are they diff?

***EDIT

also... once u turned the nob or whatever around do u have to turn it back and then bolt it back on?

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Originally posted by inark

now is it the same for R32/33 or are they diff?

also... once u turned the nob or whatever around do u have to turn it back and then bolt it back on?

The r32 only has the knob I dont think it has a plug for a paper clip to go into.

the knob needs to be in the diag position for the whole time you need it to show fault code's

remember to turn off ign before setting the knob back into its original position.

DAMQIK

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Nope, I d/c'd the battery.. stomped on the brake a few times.. reconnected the battery, took her down the road until I hit the speed limiter.. 3 times :)

I thought that should do the trick :(

I was just hoping it didnt reset my safc settings.. doesnt seem to have :)

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Originally posted by ex-static

Nope, I d/c'd the battery.. stomped on the brake a few times.. reconnected the battery, took her down the road until I hit the speed limiter.. 3 times :)

I thought that should do the trick :(

I was just hoping it didnt reset my safc settings.. doesnt seem to have :)

I really don't think it would have done too much.....the proper diagnostic tool is needed and after the reset there are certain driving processes it needs to help the computer 'learn'.

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hey DAMQIK, can u confirm that the following diagram is correct:

|O|OO|OO|OO|

|X|XO|OO|OO|

the pins marked "X" are the ones to put the paper clip through? coz i tried doing that and couldn't put it into diagnostic mode. the bottom left marked X were free, no wires were in them. some of the others had wires in them (for the alarm i fink).

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Guys! Guys!

The R33 is a little more simpler. Now, I may not be 100% on all this as I haven't done it for a while...

Okay.

Remove the kick panel on the passenger side (below the glove box). You'll reveal the computer.

Take the computer out very gentlely (its not hard, becareful of the looms and wires).

On one end of the computer you'll see a white switch, circle shape, get a small flat head screw driver.

Turn the reds on at the ignition.

turn the circlular switch oppositelock, again gently. look at the dash board, you'll see (on a series 1 gts-t) the check engine light flashing. If your getting 5 slow and 5 fast repeated flashes (it will loop) the system and its sensors are all okay.

You'll need the codes if your getting anything other then this...you can get them on the net...meggala's site might be a try there.

turn the switch back to its original postion. You'done a basica computer reading check AND reset the computer.

I would only do this if you can spend at least an hour driving on a highway so the computer can learn some good open running maps...no good doing it for 5mins......

cheers...just check on the process of turning the switch, it maybe turn switch, reds, turn back to get the result.......as long as you return it to the oringinal postion the car should be fine.

ANDREW

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Originally posted by _turtle_

hey DAMQIK, can u confirm that the following diagram is correct:

|O|OO|OO|OO|

|X|XO|OO|OO|

the pins marked "X" are the ones to put the paper clip through?YES if X's are towards the rear of the car

coz i tried doing that and couldn't put it into diagnostic mode. ? DID U TURN ON IGN PUT CLIP IN FOR 3 SECONDS AND THEN REMOVE CLIP?

the bottom left marked X were free, no wires were in them. ?the ones you want will have wires in them

some of the others had wires in them (for the alarm i fink) NO THERE FOR THE SEND/RECIVE FOR A DIAG COMPUTER.

To show you I pulled the plug out of its holder

The pin's of the plug you want are closest to you, on your left if you are facing toward the front of the car,

as in the picture below SORRY its not in focus.

DAMQIK

diag.jpg

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