Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Revs Drop And Come Back Up


SKYTYM
 Share

Recommended Posts

yeh when i went from an atmo bov to the stock one again it kept idling really bad. tried clening aac valve and afm and a couple of other things

then reset ecu and it was all good

no for fear of repeating myself to many times ill end it here lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as for the AAC valve location, i looked it up again (it's been about 3 years since i had my 33 so i'm a bit rusty on locations of things). the AAC is attached to the side of the IAC. if you look at the back of the plenum you will see a round cylinder about 1 inch wide pointing towards the passenger side with a plug on it, and just behind it what looks like a really long nut with a plug in the end of it. the round cylinder is the AAC solenoid. the other is the IAC. you remove the whole unit with 3 bolts (i think they are 12mm, maybe 13mm) and 1 or 2 of them are located under the unit. then disconnect the plugs and hoses. the AAC i think is held on by 2 small phillips head screws. give the whole unit a good spray with carby/throttle body cleaner. then stick it back together and install the unit back in the car. after doing this it is best to readjust the idle which you need to lock the car into base idle mode. this can be done without a consult but i can't remember how. has something to do with bridging 2 wires in the consult plug.

This man knows his stuff, listen to him.

I can say from yesterday's experience it's a 10mm bolt.

I did the aac clean and adjusted my idle... I'm idling at 700 now and it doesn't drop to nearly stalling anymore when going from say 4th gear -> neutral. Wicked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Dudes and Dudesses Well i changed my fuel filter and spark plus and clean the the body with carby spray and then my idle problem went away. But then just yesterday another problem happened my car felt like its lost 20-30% power and it sounds like a WRX, when i go over 4gran it trys to find it self but sounds really f**kt up it really rumbles like a WRX engine. I dont know if its an exhaust problem or a engine problem gonna go to the mechanics today to check it out. Bloody hate spending money on problems :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
    • https://whiteline.com.au/front-and-rear-sway-bar-vehicle-kit-to-suit-nissan-skyline-r32-awd-9986-bnk009.html whiteline calls them a sway bar, the topic of this post.
×
×
  • Create New...