Andrew's R32 Gtr With Forged Rb30Dett Build

[Gtir-keiron]

I agree you can reach 400 to 450 kw atws with 25/30s with the correct mods and still have the response.

Depends where you wish to drive the car,Around town i don t see much boost because i try to stick to the road rules,One slip in your gtr its easy as hell to break the speed limit by 40 or more and insta loss your licence.......

IF its a stip car i can understand shooting for a bigger turbo,About the blocks i was suggesting bare blocks i think you find that the rb26 even tho its small compacity it ways about 10kg more due to the fact the block was build to take the strain,Rb30 block in a 4wd car would have to be a weak point for torq id imagine..Im sure theres plenty of people around who make massive numbers on rb30s but i would hazzard a guess they are strait drag cars for 10 or less seconds a run or rear wheel drive cars.

I wanted to do a 26/30 in mine but was warn not to as a daily.I know alot of rnd has gone into the conversion as you can see what RIPS has done with theres.

[rockabilly]

any updates on this mate?. i am just removing a gt4094r and going twins but need maximiun responce

[dorifticon]

Hi

As I said, I had a clutch issue and was only driving on run-in tune (it's still at the workshop getting the clutch issue looked at).

However, even with a low rev limiter and low boost, it is clear that with the 3.0 block, 272/10.5mm lift cams, (JUN) and the HKS2530's, it is super responsive. It's no longer a small capacity, laggy jap turbo motor. It's just power from idle. Note I am also running OEM cast iron manifolds with the turbo side ported to match the turbo. You could possibly go even better with tubular, I dunno.

But yeah as far as daily driving goes, it is a pretty torque/response-friendly solution. One thing I was surprised at was the cams - I thought it would idle funny and be doughy down bottom, but if anything it's helped. If I could do one thing differently with hindsight, it would be to go larger cams. But the 272's will do fine for now.

Hope that helps

Andrew

any updates on this mate?. i am just removing a gt4094r and going twins but need maximiun responce

[dorifticon]

Well, apparently we bent one of the clutch plates when installing the engine - apparently the problem is the gearbox spline can get hung up on the plates etc before engaging with the actual motor and damage things when we were bullying it around trying to get it to mate up properly.

Bit of an expensive mistake to make but oh well. Hopefully some others on here can learn from this mistake and not attempt to install the engine with the clutch bolted to the motor and the gearbox still in the car.

The full clutch assy has been sent away for the components to be checked/repaired/replaced as required.

[GT-R32]

Annoying Andrew. I often wonder if that's what happened to my clutch when it was installed at a certain workshop. They said they had trouble with it, it's now hard to engage gears from neutral as if it's already in gear... Who knows.

[dorifticon]

We had to adjust the pedal out all the way at both the adjustment points and even now you basically have to floor the clutch to get a smooth shift.

There is also an adjustment thingy between the booster and the master cylinder. Would've been REAL easy to dismantle etc when the engine was out (especially since I put in a new booster) but of course we had no idea that the clutch travel would be so much longer, so we left it as it was originally as a default, only to install the motor and realise we couldn't engage the gears.

Bit of a bugger of a thing because fitting the rb30 decreases what is already a bloody small clearance between the clutch M/C and the inlet plenum.

Annoying Andrew. I often wonder if that's what happened to my clutch when it was installed at a certain workshop. They said they had trouble with it, it's now hard to engage gears from neutral as if it's already in gear... Who knows.

[dorifticon]

Well, got the r32 back this week, the clutch has now been converted to twin-plate, supposedly able to hold 450awkw. So plenty for the time being.

it's a vast improvement over the triple (with a bent plate). However I'd be lying if I described it as "polite". To avoid juddering on takeoff it needs about 2,000 rpm. The clutch engagement is vastly improved and while still very heavy feels much more like a normal clutch. It's now neccessary to blip the throttle on the downshift to get a smooth shift, esp. from 3rd into 2nd.

The main difficulty is the run-in tune - Glenn warned me I'd have to "drive around it" but I wasn't really prepared for this. Apparently it has a 5000rpm rev limit and a 12 psi boost limit, which in theory sounds ok but in practice I think the boost limit is cutting in around 3000 rpm, even earlier if its under load (up a hill or something). So it's a hard boost cut (and ignition and fuel?) just as the car is starting to gather speed, and when it hits it feels like it's going to launch you face-first through the windscreen.

So accellerating up to the speed limit required rowing through 4 gears. I think also now that I've driven it a bit, the cams are making it a bit soggy and it's not really starting to come into it's own until just before the boost cut.

Hopefully once the motor has loosened up a bit and it's running a normal tune, it will be easier to live with.

It's already proving to be a long 1000 kms run-in. 200 down, around 800 to go.

[Get EPIC]

Well,this thead has definately put me off getting a rb30 bottom end.Good luck with everything mate and i hope it makes atleast 400rwkw!

[dorifticon]

LOL. I reckon the r33 GTS-t (as you sig says) would be a lot easier, just off the top of my head I can think of 4 reasons - 1) no deck height issues as it comes with a 2.5 and crossover manifold 2) has a single turbo setup already 3) has no driveshafts going through motor 4) sump adaption much simpler.

Well,this thead has definately put me off getting a rb30 bottom end.Good luck with everything mate and i hope it makes atleast 400rwkw!

[dorifticon]

well there were no easy answers to overcoming the issue of the catch can (my previous autech-style catch can did not fit with the extra deck height of the rb30 block, so had to think of some other answer).

$400 for the mines cam cover baffles seemed a bit rich, and wasn't sure how much help it would be. The nismo item looked ok but might have been complicated incorporating the drain-back in my current turbo setup.

So the answer was to fab up a catch can that sits near the battery. Its essentially a cylinder with circular baffles, with sections removed, and the openings offset so the vapours have a large surface area to condense on. Fittings were turned up on a lathe bought recently by a friend of mine.

[dorifticon]

Well there were mixed results on the dyno. In some ways it was encouraging, but in other ways quite frustrating.

Glenn warned me on the day that my fuel pump (single in-tank tomei 256Lph) would be a limiting factor. In hindsight I should have thought about that beforehand.

In any case, it turned out the factory boost solenoid limited the boost to 17psi. Bit of a bummer to be foiled by a $40 part. I guess far worse things can happen on a dyno run.

The good news - the new engine is strong and punching out good numbers even at low rpm/boost. Ended up with 320kw and more than 600Nm at 17psi. However the peak power is probably almost irrellevant compared to the difference in the torque and general engine characteristics of the 3.0 compared to the 2.6.

The way it looks in the dyno curve is pretty much how it behaves on the street. Its hard to believe its the same car. Everything just happens so much earlier in the rev range. And cruising is done in entirely one gear higher (ie if at a given speed I cruised in 4th, now I idle along in 5th).

Anyway, have ordered the 3 port MAC boost solenoid to run with the vipec and sorting out some kind of dual-pump surge tank setup as well, and will have another crack at it early in the new year and hopefully push the motor a bit.

[dorifticon]

Well, it's been a long while between drinks.

The main modifications since last time were the mac boost solenoid, which allowed boost beyond 17psi; and the fuel setup. Glenn from ESP re-kitted a used Sard surge tank which had capacity for 3 pumps. At this stage I've employed my tomei 276 lph in-tank as a lifter pump, and put 2 new detchwerks 300lph in-tank pumps inside the surge tank, mounted in the boot. All the lines used are e85 compatible, so once some more petrol stations start selling ethanol nearby, I'll be set as far as hardware goes (just a new tune and more boost required).

The repaired clutch has also run in and become way more friendly (still not great in absolute terms, but a massive improvement).

[dorifticon]

So with the new boost solenoid and the moderately serious fuel pump setup, boost was wound up to 22 psi. On the initial tune it spat out 383 kw, then at the ESP dyno day it threw up a figure of 387 kw (much colder day!) so it's putting out good consistent numbers. Fuel consumption is an issue, sure, but nothing compared to the tire consumption...

[GT-R32]

Great looking power curve mate, it must be loads of fun.

[BunsenBurna]

very enjoyable read mate, thank you for sharing. can you talk me through your decision to go Vipec engine management? is it a v44? im contemplating vipec myself...

[dorifticon]

If you can't be bothered wading through the thread, the autospeed articles sum it up pretty well:

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_112538/article.html