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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


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This project is mainly for Greddy turbo fans, but I don't like copying them in OEM specifications, so I will mix and match wheels plus some customized profiled billet wheels for them to be different. The goal is for dynamic drivability, Modify housings to fit different types of vehicles, and perhaps adding ceramic roller bearing cartridges.

I'll be keen on getting one if it outperforms the standard td05 without the billet wheel as that's what I have now

Also my friend had a td06sl2 in those housings and had trouble controlling boost kept creeping have you fixed this problem by porting the gate or reccommend external gate with the td06

I've had the T518Z billet version finalized today with every thing machined up nicely.

IMAG1105.jpg

IMAG1107.jpg

It is currently on 18G compressor with a TD05H turbine. I will machine one more housing using SL2 turbine tomorrow

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Depending how they go, you could potentially open up a nice little market for those turbos. I didn't really think about it before, but i was

thinking today

due to all the chinese exhaust housings for these mitsubishi stuff theres a ready made market for subarus in both twin scroll and single,

evos, RB's ,CA, SR, might be others i havnt noticed.

be very interesting to see how your modified versions went on those other vehicles compared to the stock variants

Anyway nice work

cheers

darren

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i still don't understand how there are so many nice cast rear housings for the sr20 5bolt dump pattern

yet there are none for the rb20/25 one, stao has to use an adapter to make the 6 bolt dump

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I just don't see how Stao can make that adapter cheaper than a nice stainless dump, it's quite a chunk of steel and plenty of machining work just to re-use the dump that may be fitted already.

Surely a 5 bolt stainless dump to fit up to the stock three bolt flange, in 3 inch would be cheaper, lighter and flow better?

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So after a weekend of fitting the turbo, apart from the aftermarket manifold fun which set us back 4-5 hours everything was smooth sailing.

Water line was a quick fix and apart from one the of the oil fittings now being short, job was pretty straight forward. Helps having a mate that sorta does it for a living and a workshop at your disposal though.

One issue I am having though and I think other people have had is the dump pipe now sits up hard against a particular rubber house. Air con house or something I think?

Picture below:

406866_541629902518040_1736913673_n.jpg

What have people done to overcome this?

Being a track car, that rubber hose and whatever is under there is going to burn in about 5 minutes.

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Exhaust lagging on the dump with it doubled up where it passes the hose but I'm looking at cutting the dump in half and rewelding at a different angle to avoid the hose and raise the lowest part of the dump.

Prob pull it off next weekend and start figuring it out.

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Well I believe the current ATR28 turbine wheels are much better turbine wheel to the TD05H, if it doesn't perform as planed then I will change it. Regarding to the wastegate flapper, I will fit a large 38mm gate to this housing.

That manifold sticks out about 20mms compare to stock, plus I think the JJR dumps do have the issue touching drain pipe. The pipe needs to be zip tied backwards or wrapped with heat wraps.

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Hrmm ill see what I can do.

I'll double check but Im pretty sure its hard up right against the entrance hole, so there isn't much movement in trying to tie it hard against the chasis.

Heat wrap might last one session at Sandown Scotty lol

Anyway I've left it with my mate to have a think about what we do :/

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Do you need air con for a track car?

Maybe just get rid of it and bypas the hose or something.

It's a track car but still my daily :/

I melted that hose log ago and have had 0 issues with it. Still getting an icy 18 degrees and no water leaks :D

Well that's intradasting.

We might cut another or bigger hole and loop it through.

Will let you guys know what we eventually do!

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Hey Stao

Quick question. Do you know if Trent will adjust the boost via the adjustable actuator you have provided on the turbo or via a turbotech boost T that I currently have on the car?

If he just uses the adjustable actuator to control boost ill rip out the boost T out of the car.

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Adjustable actuator? Unless there are different springs that come with it... Don't change the threaded shaft position. It needs to have around 3mm of preload, it isn't for adjusting boost.

Oh me no know. I just remember another mate asking me the other day lol

Haven't changed the preload on the actuator didn't need to remove in on the install, so its as is from Stao :)

He would normally adjust it through the boost controller, it gains better response that way. the actuator has to be pulled up tight.

Cheers!

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Just need to fix the aircon hose. Do the injectors and afm then Im done!

Just waiting on a booking time from Trent/Cat

Oh and also ordering a new 3inch 100 cell venom 5inch body cat.

Found out my old cat was 2.6inch.

And don't want to run a de-cat dont want a potential $10,000 fine :/

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Picture below:

406866_541629902518040_1736913673_n.jpg

Being a track car, that rubber hose and whatever is under there is going to burn in about 5 minutes.

If this is a track car then I think you are worried about the wrong black hose. I would be doing something about the coolant hose going to the heater core that is only a few inches from the no.6 cylinder runner on the manifold you are running

If you run 50;50 coolant and the temps are up over 95 when running and it splits then this can happen to you too :)

Winton_Trouble.jpg

462Close_Up.JPG

End up with ethylene glycol being sprayed onto a rad hot exhaust which can lead to some unexpected, interesting problems :)

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