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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


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For every one's inquires:

DaveO47: The Viva turbine housing is finished. I'm designing the wastegate part of it at moment. It needs 2x actuators to operate, the brackets that needs to hold and make them run in sequential order is quite complicated, still work in progress. Will post some photos soon.

Harey: Yes this is a customized turbo running GT35 spec turbine wheel with a 76mm 56T comp. Yours is been built the same spec.

Urtwhistle: Great to know every thing's running. Also please note the stock RB25's intake pipe will restrict your power flow. Please have a 3inch metal intake pipe with a pod filter installed when dyno tuning. will make lot better result.

Skyling01999: Not much difference. UP high flow is ATR43 SS1, SS2, G1, G2, G3 or custom 3576 profile using stock comp housing only.

BlaikierR33: Compare to TR43i the ATR43's got the latest and updated wheels, they got greater boost efficiency, and they bolton to most of OEM RB25det's setup.

Zebra: ATR43 .82 turbine has been the same shape except the current ones got bigger wastegate flap with manual controller.

Geraus: I can do a PU high flow with 3576 profile. Let me know when you are ready.

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I'm sure Stao and a few others maybe interested in this, took off my old highflow today and did a trial fit of the ATR43G3 with was modified for external gate which was posted by Stao a couple of weeks ago.

Size comparison between the old VG30 highflow (t04 internals) and the ATR43 G3

IMG_2766.jpg

A few pics of the test fit to make sure the external gate and screamer pipe clears all the air-con lines, will be all bolted in and finished off tomorrow, then to run the turbo in and off to the dyno for a tune.

IMG_2768.jpg

IMG_2770.jpg

IMG_2772.jpg

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Stoa do you have any results of the atr28g4 on an rb25? I am still suffering severe lag. i have installed a 10psi actuator to stop my car hitting R&R as soon as boost comes on. spool up is exactly the same with the 1kg actuator in. I have a tad over 2psi by 3000rpm and not hitting my max boost of 10psi until over 5000rpm. Any ideas?

Edited by Crans
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Paul: Thanks for the photos. Plesae try to drive it for 200KMs before dyno tune, you will get more responsive result. Please let me know what you get. Cheers.

Cran:

Make sure wastegate it shut tight with 3mms of re-load, also Please make a inch metal intake pipe, you will notice heaps of difference. and check your BOV to ensure its not leaking.

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Paul: Thanks for the photos. Plesae try to drive it for 200KMs before dyno tune, you will get more responsive result. Please let me know what you get. Cheers.

Just to clear up your statment Tao, you mean dyno tune it straight away. Then get another dyno graph done after 200kms and it will show better response. There is no need to dyno tune it again.

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Cran:

Make sure wastegate it shut tight with 3mms of re-load, also Please make a inch metal intake pipe, you will notice heaps of difference. and check your BOV to ensure its not leaking.

What size intake pipe is required for the PU High Flow 3576? I am assuming because it has a factory comp cover that the factory intake pipe is fine?

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Its preferred that you drive it for 200KMs before tuning. But if you didn't you do not have to retune it after 200kms.

With the stock comp housing, you ended up with half mm each side of the intake pipe. lol. But do run it with 3inch intake pipe, stock pipe will restrict power flow.

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Its preferred that you drive it for 200KMs before tuning. But if you didn't you do not have to retune it after 200kms.

I dont understand this.

I am guessing most people will be using new injectors so a tune will have to be done just for the car to run.

So are you saying get a quick tune done while the turbo is new. Then get a full tune done after 200kms?

Can you please describe what you mean, I have read it a few times in this thread but still doesnt make sense to me.

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he means put it on and drive it as is for 200km. its not a far disctance, you want need a tune or change of any other parts to drive it around sedately.

however the car was running previously put it on and run it like that for 200km, then whack ur tune parts in and get it tuned. simple.

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he means put it on and drive it as is for 200km. its not a far disctance, you want need a tune or change of any other parts to drive it around sedately.

however the car was running previously put it on and run it like that for 200km, then whack ur tune parts in and get it tuned. simple.

Except I would say 90% or more of people would be also installing larger injectors at the same time as a larger turbo.

Also when I spoke to Tao he said that it needs a good harsh run in of the turbo, ie boosting it pretty hard. How can you safely boost a turbo hard thats not tuned??

The only conclusion I can see that makes sense, is get a full tune done initially, drive it hard for 200km and then get the tune checked after that.

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Except I would say 90% or more of people would be also installing larger injectors at the same time as a larger turbo.

Also when I spoke to Tao he said that it needs a good harsh run in of the turbo, ie boosting it pretty hard. How can you safely boost a turbo hard thats not tuned??

The only conclusion I can see that makes sense, is get a full tune done initially, drive it hard for 200km and then get the tune checked after that.

Just adjust the injector settings if your using pfc so it will run but as said before the turbo and injectors arent realated in install so install the turbo then install the injectors later and I rember Stao always saying the opposite dont drive the turbo hard for first few 100kms to let it wear in or maybe that was with the older oil cooled models that I have.

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Well if you are installing injectors and ECU on the same time as the turbo then do get it fully tuned which it will appear to have abit more lag then what it should have. You do not have to get it re-tuned unless you are changing other things to the car.

With run in, just thresh it hard as your can if possible for 100kms. Or just cruse it on low boost for 200kms.

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Just to make sure everyone is aware only the compressor cover is factory. The exhaust housing is larger then normal. So to 95% of inspections yes it will pass as standard, however it is possible someone very switched on could spot it.

Also, comparing the dyno sheet so far to a genuine 3076 is not quite equal. Yes it has a very similar top end but the bottom end is quite a bit less, yes even if you take into account the turbo wearing in.

I think its still very impressive and I have ordered one, however I dont think it should be sold as "equal to a genuine 3076".

Edited by Harey
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The profile that we are building is in 3576. Not 3076. So it is infact larger.

For ATR43G3 Sleeve bearing profile vs BB GT3076s in idential turbine housing and engine. you find results are very close.

Also this profile is available in BB using GT3076 CHRA. Which makes it idential.

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