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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


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you can, but the car has to meet all the emission requirements of the chassis.

Ie needs to pass the IM240 test and have an engineers cert.

Stao - will your atr25s fit into GT2860 housings?

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I would go with this option since its cheaper and less hassle/effort.

Cheaper option would be to buy a second hand motor in known condition. You know it won't fall apart from poor workman ship like some rebuilds will, they have a proven track record and will hold 250-300 for many years if tuned correctly and never see detonation and are kept cool.

Honestly I would do that, you can get a s1/2 rb25 for $1000 if you look around, I personally sold a forged rb25 short motor for $1k with only 7000kms on it. Or you could fork out for a neo for around $2k which has some advantages, better head, better rods, newer with less kms.

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I would prefer rebuild as no one knows whats in the 2nd hand motor. I've bought a used motor when my first motor blew, luckily we pulled it apart for a quick look, find cyc 1 & 2 had broken ring lands, bought it back swapped for another one that had broken ring land 6.

When I was on turbo jobs at JSA, they swapping motors every day as some of their imported cars needs engine replacement, many of the 2nd hand engines they've bought locally aren't really better then what came out.

Rebuild it properly is a way better option.

Stao - will your atr25s fit into GT2860 housings?

Yes on the comp side, turbine side is larger. can be machined out.

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Please dont ever rebuild a stock motor with another 2nd hand piston.

i rebuilt mine with 2nd hand pistons from sau and new nissan rings and acl bearings.

400rwhp+ for 3yrs. now 470 on 26psi

but if u have the money dif replace everything that needs it with forged/new stuff

Edited by methz
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i rebuilt mine with 2nd hand pistons from sau and new nissan rings and acl bearings.

400rwhp+ for 3yrs. now 470 on 26psi

but if u have the money dif replace everything that needs it with forged/new stuff

I have a customers sr20 sitting here. Has a busted piston skirt on cyl 3. Someone replaced that piston with a 2nd hand piston. Wasnt the right size piston for the bore.

As with most things. If its done right it can work

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Any way, back to the high flow agenda. We've picked up few jobs from few Chinese 4S dealers this year. I found this pretty interesting so I post it up. Turbo below is a K03 from a new VW 1.8T. Its a tinny turbo for the engine size and runs off an plumbed back external gate setup similar to the EFR turbos.

In here the turbine housing needs to hold the exploding wheel in case of failur, so the housing castings are pretty thick, this one is like photo paper thin, the casting just go right through when comes to machining. Have to weld and patch up all the bits that did gone through and here it is :miner: :

MVC-001F.JPG

MVC-002F.JPG

This is a ATR28G1 core in stock housings, should support from 150HP stock to roughly 280HP.

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I've charged our client $1100 AUD each. those are very hard to do, also note how their dump pipe is in 90 degrees, which we had to make a custom holder to sit it on a large low speed lath. Also every thing break through when comes to machining, had to brace every thing up, a huge job to high flow. But I'm sure they will work well.

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K04's got a different bolt pattern. I was originally thought about using a K04's core which would be an easy job, how ever I don't think it can work well with the K03's tinny turbine housing. ATR28G1 Core is lot bigger then a K04, and the far apart turbine blade arrangement allows the motor to breath lot better. Would definitely pull out more torque and power.

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there is a K04 upgrade process you can do...

audi a3/4 and TT use the same motor, the a3/4 use K03 and the TT K04.

all VW use K03... So if the same motor can run a K04 on the TT im sure theres an easy way to fix it up.

a mate had a K04 passat, it was actually pretty quick and pushed over 200kw at the fronts

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Right, so VERY close to having my car back up and running. Have spent about $500 just in parts to get this thing to fit on properly, not including having to use my own terrible welding skills to modify my hot 'cooler piping. Gonna cost another $500ish to get that redone nicely, but that's a story for another day. Just need to source a piece of pipe to properly plumb up the oil return line, spent $50 on some oil control hose that just kinks when I tighten the clamp up down.gif

BUT, having now got it all back together, I am definitely going to have an issue with the dump pipe being too close too that damn air-con drain. I've got maybe 2-3mm of clearance there. Solutions??

Edited by Hanaldo
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For the drain You can modify the stock drain pipe with a bit of high quality heater hose from Repco (cost $14/M):

oildrain2.JPG

Installation guide with the G3 is at page 39:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__760

I just had a piece of 90 degrees 2.5 inches pipe from turbo to cooler piping then just poded the front at that time. Or just a 4inches 45 degrees hose with a straight pipe and pod.

With the rubber pipe generally if it doesn't touch it won't burn. If it does looks like going to touch then we normally put a small whole on the the end of of and pull it back against the bracket with a small zip tie.

also can you send me a photo of your engine bay? must be a very neat setup :P I'm installing another SS3 prototype I will post some photos of how that looks like on my car and whats required.

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