Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

Girl like hands a needed my manly hands couldnt get in to take the plugs off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

I've seen Trent doing it while ago. Remove the throttle body, which leaves you with a opening to fit your hand and tools. After removing all the brackets holding the fuel rail and plugs you can pull it out with all the injectors. Do the same putting it back. Not an easy task.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

This.

Made my life hell for a few days the first time I did it (stupid enough to do it on the grass).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Girl like hands a needed my manly hands couldnt get in to take the plugs off

From memory all you have to do is push down on the clip part and you will hear a click and the plug will slide off, i think i used the tip of a screwdriver to push down on a couple of them.

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

I lost them as well, dont try to make some up with old rubber hose that "seems" hard enough to do the job.

also long pointy nose pliers and patience got the job done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Stao,

I currently have a gcg high flow making 254kw atw with full boost at 3200rpm. This turbo is great on the street with excellent response, great upgrade however i am in need of more power. The GCG turbo spikes at 18psi then drops down to 16psi and stays there untill 7000rpm.

What hypergear option would you recommend to achieve 280 kw plus, with very similar response to gcg high flow. I would like to run the nissan comp cover and also a rear housing which will bolt up to my current dump pipe. Basically im looking for a direct replacment bolton custom turbo which would make some more power.

Also if i decide to keep my gcg high flow can you supply me with a bolton actuator which can hold between 15 to 20 psi. My current actuator was taken of a rb20 turbo and it holds 10psi when boost controller is turned off. I think i might need a stronger one to maintain strong consistant boost, what do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also if i decide to keep my gcg high flow can you supply me with a bolton actuator which can hold between 15 to 20 psi. My current actuator was taken of a rb20 turbo and it holds 10psi when boost controller is turned off. I think i might need a stronger one to maintain strong consistant boost, what do you think?

an electronic boost controller should let you hold 20psi+ to redline, this would almost certainly make 260-270kw which is what you are after yes? With small turbos like this they will always spike boost and then bleed down by redline without an electronic controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For fast response 280rwkws I would recommend the SS1PU version with a 20psi actuator.

By the way I'm doing some modifications to the SS2, not sure if it will work, but if so, I should get 300rwkws with SS1's response.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For fast response 280rwkws I would recommend the SS1PU version with a 20psi actuator.

By the way I'm doing some modifications to the SS2, not sure if it will work, but if so, I should get 300rwkws with SS1's response.

If this does work, could something like this be integrated into my turbo if and when I send it back for repairs?

Easy job. Just be VERY carefull of the spacers under the rail. Easy to drop and lose

Ah f**k, I found two of these hard spacers in my engine bay. They were sitting in the engine mount area. Could they be from my rail or something? I didn't fit them in, Advan performance did. Maybe they put new ones in, unless what ever they sit between can work without them...

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a feel under where the rail bolts on. Or use a little mirror to see if the black spacer is there.

Wolverine, hahaha, took 3 of us to find that little sucker, that was an injector o ring. I swear it was sucking the blood out of my leg and then just dropped off under the car after we had been searching for a few minutes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...