Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Nothing has changed since the tune, that's why I'm not worried. If Efi performance is half as good as everyone thinks then I don't have anything to worry about. The horrendous noise was there before and (im assuming) during the tune so that's not an issue until I fix it. $69 for the gasket at Nissan and there is none in Australia.

Yes it has, you said when you got it it was running 20psi in the midrange and 14psi at redline, now its running 20psi at redline, thats a huge difference!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

I wouldnt go pointing the finger at the tuner...I drove 6 hours to have Sean tune my car last week with a nistune. My car drives so much better and is more fuel efficient as it was running like a pig before hand. I highly doubt it would of just been a case of lets just throw it in the to hard basket as I watched them tune my car personally and it wasnt a case of a "quick tune"

Reading your posts you have a few things to get sorted...Boost control is all over the place for starters and all these sounds you hear? Yet you just point the finger at the tuner for this? I mean you ring up and ask for a tune and thats wat youll get...You ring up and ask for a tune but before hand fix my problems which may be a leaking gasket or a joiner or just go over the car and make sure its 100% prior to rolling it on the dyno.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't point my finger at the tuner for that sole reason. But let's see I pay for them to remove my front shaft. They couldn't do it, I still had to pay. It took me 10 minutes and I don't even have a jack. It's not so much seans abilities I doubt as his commitment to do a good job. I have attempted to use 4 different tuners over the years and at the end of the day I ended up getting my wife to road tune out the problems on the way home. I will admit one of them was happy to tell me he had no idea what he was doing, he had never tuned a haltech before.

And incase you only just started reading my posts. I didn't think it was an air leak before it went on the dyno. I assumed it was detonation.

I have been removing parts slowly to see if any of them are the cause for my problems. The only source I have found for the strange noise is the missing dump pipe bolt that can't be installed with a jjr 3"bellmouth dump, ive jammed a bolt in the hole tempoarily, I will weld it up when I get a chance. And clearly I don't have a boost control issue when I don't have a boost control.

Next point you don't ring Efi performance for anything because they lack the ability to answer the phone 95% of the time.

Edited by lilcrash
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably because they are flat out working. The phone takes up alot of time, and its always the most important person in the wokshop that the custoner wants to talk to.

Be patient and im sure u will get in contact with them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the number of cars they had in there its perfectly understandable that they are busy and can't get to the phone. That's why I gave up and ended up using email to organize everything. That way they can answer when they have time. I think some of you are quick to be against me in my ramblings. If you paid to have your car tuned and even after they got the tune to what they consider acceptable to be picked up by the customer, driving home you had the check engine light on countless times, black clouds out the exhaust and just general rough running. Would you be satisfied?? I understand that yes there is a problem somewhere in the pressure side of the intake, but this was there during the tune so it has been written into the tune and should run accordingly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just get the car mechanically sound first, please dont rush back to the tuners and probably avoid driving it while your at it.

Ive always found that if I tell a tuner I built something myself or Im running any level of dubious component in the car they will be on the backfoot from the get go. Avoid saying too much, if anything tell them you have a garrett on the car or something.

I spent a day a few weeks ago eliminating possible problems with my own car. I ended up removing a busted EGR valve, a broken purge valve, the charcoal can setup, meters of old vacuum lines and a cooler pipe and bov that had been toughing for a while and had worn holes in eachother. This is a car that has been tuned and running for half a decade. Would you believe it ran tonnes better after I fixed all that?

Back to basics for you just like it was for me, you will find the problem(S) and once fixed you can get it retuned and be happy as a pig in sh*t.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

Most tuners don't like working on cars with issues as they aren't the ones that normally fix this stuff and it makes tuning very difficult. If it only happens some times it sounds like it could be when the engine torques over either an intercooler hose, intake manifold gasket or exhaust gasket is leaking. Once you get the leak or whatever is causing this issue fixed take it back.

I had a similar issue, the wrong gasket had been used between the two halves of the intake manifold, leaked all the time and when at peak torque would leak extra bad making a trumpet sound, only at peak torque and not always though. Was a total flamin mongrel to find and fix.

When you pressure test the intake get a crow bar and put some mild leverage on the intake and intercooler pipes. You might find something that leaks when it gets twisted (when the engine torques over).

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yer I'm deffinately going to take my time, I want to tidy up my engine bay anyway.

Rolls - that's a good point, I know my engine lifts atleast 35-40mm as I am slowly getting a dint in my blow off valve return pipe. It hits the strut brace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From experience a small leak won't affect boost drop by alot.

If you are taking it back to the dyno make sure you have a pod filter or a air box with no lid and filter.

knocked 4psi off mine! only had 2 cylinders leaking as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What gasket are you trying to find?

Find the leak/s first then replace gaskets as needed.

The gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. Happened to me. Guy doing the tune (not my current tuner) swapped in some bigger injectors and misaligned the gasket. Made a really strange noise and was hard to track down. My guess for a likely suspect as (possibly one) of the problems here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been removing parts slowly to see if any of them are the cause for my problems. The only source I have found for the strange noise is the missing dump pipe bolt that can't be installed with a jjr 3"bellmouth dump, ive jammed a bolt in the hole tempoarily, I will weld it up when I get a chance. And clearly I don't have a boost control issue when I don't have a boost control.

Wut? I know it's tight in there but I still managed to get all 4 bolts and 2 nuts tightened, had to use a very short open-ended spanner though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mayb yours if different to mine. The hole is almost against the pipe, it's drilled into the weld.

You can still get it in. I bashed one of my dumps with a hammer to get it in. You might think it doesn't fit but get an open spanner on it and it will go in. Pack alot of washers in there to close the gap earlier. I got two stainless JJR dumps and one mild steel. All SEEMED impossible but managed to get them all done after a f**kload of swearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. Happened to me. Guy doing the tune (not my current tuner) swapped in some bigger injectors and misaligned the gasket. Made a really strange noise and was hard to track down. My guess for a likely suspect as (possibly one) of the problems here.

Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.
    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
×
×
  • Create New...