Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[itshimdazza]

when are these tuning places going to stop using yellow in there dyno printouts? it makes it so hard to find the line....

Edited September 24, 2011 by itshimdazza

[W0rp3D]

Another thing to check the wastegate is to hook a stiff spring to the flapper arm and hook it to some where else so the wastegate wont open, take off the vac line and block the end, take it for a spin being very carefull not to over boost and watch the gauge, if it does the same as that graph then its not your wastegate, if it does then you have found the problem.

Edited September 24, 2011 by W0rp3D

[Rolls]

edit, tangles response, yer i think that may be the root off my problem. as far as i know the compression is ok but i havnt tested it since i before the turbo blew a few months ago

thanks for the suggestions

bad compression will kill power but it won't stop the turbo boosting. Your power result looks healthy for that boost anyway.

[lilcrash]

Ok so now I've got 22psi on gearchanges and 20 at redline. And a possible large leak somewhere.

[GTScotT]

Ok so now I've got 22psi on gearchanges and 20 at redline. And a possible large leak somewhere.

To help us diagnose this, what did you change to cause this effect?

[lilcrash]

This is yesterday's events.

I just went for a drive to see if disconnecting the waste gate/ try running without an air filter fixed my boost issue and something strange happened. 1st run(no waste gate lines) hit 30psi. Bad idea, pull over reconnect. 2nd run(as normal) boost drop off isn't constant only in certain gears/load points. Pull over. 3rd run(no air filter) goes as normal untin 4th gear 165/170km/h, bang, miss miss miss miss miss miss etc... Slow down, pull off highway, drives as if intercooler pipe has come off. Pull over. No pipes off. Nothing unusual. Do uturn, big skid, drive home. Possibly slightly laggy response. Still hitting 20psi

[KiwiRS4T]

Have you checked the plenum gasket? Still my prime suspect.

[lilcrash]

I'm going to Nissan today to get some front shaft bolts so il get a plennum gasket while im there and replace it to be sure.

[hypergear]

This is yesterday's events.

I just went for a drive to see if disconnecting the waste gate/ try running without an air filter fixed my boost issue and something strange happened. 1st run(no waste gate lines) hit 30psi. Bad idea, pull over reconnect. 2nd run(as normal) boost drop off isn't constant only in certain gears/load points. Pull over. 3rd run(no air filter) goes as normal untin 4th gear 165/170km/h, bang, miss miss miss miss miss miss etc... Slow down, pull off highway, drives as if intercooler pipe has come off. Pull over. No pipes off. Nothing unusual. Do uturn, big skid, drive home. Possibly slightly laggy response. Still hitting 20psi

It appears the air box and pannel filter is affecting your boost level. Air required can not flow through that tinny hole on the lid. You obviously had more boost with perfromance gain when the lid and filter is out.

Drop actuator pre-load to normal level, Get a big pod filter, get rid of that air box, or remove the panel filter (Panel filter will also restrict flow) and drill few wholes on the lid. Once done you should get the normal amount of boost and power level, that will also drop your inlet and exhaust gas temperture.

[Rolls]

You really shouldn't be revving out 4th at 20psi without it actually being tuned at that! could very easily be running lean or detonating and hello dead motor!

I had the wrong intake gasket on the middle of the two halves of my intake plenum, made the boost drop from 19psi to 15psi, wasn't until it started making a noise that I realised, even then it was a huge pain to figure out what it was.

Have you pressure tested the intake yet?

Edited September 26, 2011 by Rolls

[KiwiRS4T]

It appears the air box and pannel filter is affecting your boost level. Air required can not flow through that tinny hole on the lid. You obviously had more boost with perfromance gain when the lid and filter is out.

Drop actuator pre-load to normal level, Get a big pod filter, get rid of that air box, or remove the panel filter (Panel filter will also restrict flow) and drill few wholes on the lid. Once done you should get the normal amount of boost and power level, that will also drop your inlet and exhaust gas temperture.

I doubt that the airbox and panel filter is the problem. I have made 260awkw with the stock box, snorkel and a pipercross filter. Would be interested to see once the boost problem is solved whether putting the airbox (without all the holes bore in it!) back on kills the power.

[hypergear]

I lost 11kws on a 260rwkws setup with 2 holes cut on the side of the lid, So it was removed straight way. How ever I've never thought any one would run stock air box with hard intake pipe.

Lillcrash is trying to gain 3psi up top and it appeared to have some effects on boost level. So keen to see if that did make a difference.

[wolverine]

I found the series 2 Stagea snorkle/airbox with K&N panel filter to be a restriction at modest power.

[scotty nm35]

We don't get much of a choice down here with the one intake mod rule. Most of the intakes I make are for stock airboxes to keep the engine bay looking standard.

Police in Melbourne seem to hate pod filters with a passion and will treat you like a criminal even though pods do exactly the same job. I don't understand it, they should be checking your cat isn't collapsed or your o2 sensor is oscillating correctly if they really cared about your emissions.

[lilcrash]

You really shouldn't be revving out 4th at 20psi without it actually being tuned at that! could very easily be running lean or detonating and hello dead motor!

I had the wrong intake gasket on the middle of the two halves of my intake plenum, made the boost drop from 19psi to 15psi, wasn't until it started making a noise that I realised, even then it was a huge pain to figure out what it was.

Have you pressure tested the intake yet?

It's only occasionally making 20psi. But I deffinately need a new tune. It's terrible to drive.

I have a horrible noise at high rpm. I'm making a 3 inch adapter with an air fitting at the moment so I can test it.

Edited September 26, 2011 by lilcrash

[lilcrash]

With the filter out I still had the lid on the air box. I didn't want bonnet lining stuck to my afm.

[Rolls]

It isn't it just being bad to drive, you could very easily put a hole in a piston and destroy the entire motor if it is running lean and detonating. All of this playing and testing should be done with a dyno and a wideband so you can see what is going on. If you don't have this find a tuner that can do it for you otherwise this could become a very expensive exercise very quickly.

Get the air leak sorted and then find someone who can do everything else for you.

Edited September 26, 2011 by Rolls

[SargeRX8]

The noise you get from leaking intake is horrendous. Its even worse when you hear a leak on the exhaust side. Broken gasket between the turbo and the dump created the weirdest screech/squeal I have EVER heard.

Also how do you guys test for pressure drop? On the dyno we hooked up the boost gauge on the dyno between the manifold and fuel pressure regulator. Is this giving us the boost level at the manifold? Both my boost gauges are connected DIRECTLY to my intake manifold(one is the boost controller, the other just a boost gauge running off the BOV vacuum feed line). Should I fit one on the other side, say on the hot side of the turbo but not to the TB to monitor boost on both sides? I'm getting full boost anyhow(19psi at all gauges).

Edited September 26, 2011 by SargeRX8

[Hanaldo]

I used a manometer to measure my pressure drop. There is really no need to have 2 gauges reading two different pressures, the hot side will always read slightly higher than the cool side.

[lilcrash]

It isn't it just being bad to drive, you could very easily put a hole in a piston and destroy the entire motor if it is running lean and detonating. All of this playing and testing should be done with a dyno and a wideband so you can see what is going on. If you don't have this find a tuner that can do it for you otherwise this could become a very expensive exercise very quickly.

Get the air leak sorted and then find someone who can do everything else for you.

Nothing has changed since the tune, that's why I'm not worried. If Efi performance is half as good as everyone thinks then I don't have anything to worry about. The horrendous noise was there before and (im assuming) during the tune so that's not an issue until I fix it. $69 for the gasket at Nissan and there is none in Australia.