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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


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I made my own one out of thicker rubber and sealed it with silicone for now. When I decide to get the turbo repaired, I will rip it off again and use another rubber silicone with epoxy to make it more permanent. f**king piece of shit. It could be heat or just old age which caused the gasket to give way. The finest bits of dirt must have got in there.

The original gasket with the apexi was shit and is shit. It was on there nice and tight. The bolts are a good length, I can go out there and tighten it even more but its probably more than tight enough as it is. Just abit of f**king bad luck. There must have been 1 mm of twist or play or something which raised the gasket on the long part of the AFM. At least it didn't f**k my AFM. The car still runs, holds and moves as fast as it ever did and really if I didn't look into the turbo I wouldn't have any idea something was wrong. Ah well. More money into this money pit.

Edited by SargeRX8
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Are u sure its not a welding dag etc from ur old intake pipe?

Do u have the mesh on ur afm

I found a trail of shit in between the gasket and the pod. There was some sand in there and other debris. The weld was done from the outside and all slag was removed.

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Some update for the ATR43SS3.

This is the first dual gated turbo I've designed. It can run either internal or external gate or both. The internal gate setup is more of a road legal counter measure.

turbo.JPG

By the way this is our 44mm external gate

gate2.JPG

gate1.JPG

Looks familar? Its just the casting that I've bought (binned the original internals to be exact), I've re-engineered the internals to run on 2x heavy springs with travel ength of 30mms. The internals came with this gate was abit of a joke, and there is no way it cannot cause boost creeping and all the cheap gate issues. But excellent casting and casing :D .

Fitted on without much issues:

oncar.JPG

oncar3.JPG

Did couple of runs. The turbo made very wide and spread of torque with very linear power that I was hopping for. my re-engineered external gate also worked brilliantly. How ever I'm 50kws short. Looks like the turbine housing is maxed out causing restrictions.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

I’ve measured the screamer pipe wrong and made it slightly short. So I had to fit it upside down lol. I’ve attached videos for couple of runs for amusement (notice the flame shooting out of my engine bay).

I’ll be remaking a larger housing for this core in about a week and see how it goes.

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Its a SS manifold so they do go red lot faster then stock manifold. The turbo only got very hot after 24psi, but before that it was fine, and out put was very consistent. it was lot better then the very first SS1PU trial. This is a prototype thing at this stage, but did give me some feedbacks to work with.

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Shit, that is way too much heat on the manifold. It might be fine for a few pulls but how is that going to last on a track or drift? Is it necessary to run the stainless manifold with that turbo? Heat wrap that thing, at least you won't be able to see it then lol.

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Yeh from what i have seen its pretty normal for stainless to be red hot after a 4th gear dyno run...

But how long can it stay red hot before boiling your brake lines which run behind it, before it weakens etc. I wouldn't feel comfortable in my car if I knew my mani was going to glow red after a few hard pulls.

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But how long can it stay red hot before boiling your brake lines which run behind it, before it weakens etc. I wouldn't feel comfortable in my car if I knew my mani was going to glow red after a few hard pulls.

You must not drive very hard.. Sitting at stanwell tops ive seen my turbos and cast manifolds glow far and beyond the colour red.

Man up! LOL

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You must not drive very hard.. Sitting at stanwell tops ive seen my turbos and cast manifolds glow far and beyond the colour red.

Man up! LOL

Blame it on OWHS.

Very few shops allow an owner anywhere near their car when it's on the dyno, so consequently the owner doesn't get to see real exhaust manifold temperatures.

Turbo housings go way past red hot, they're almost see through they're so damn hot.

Doesn't stop there either, the dump etc will be glowing during big power runs.

Pays to keep all heatshields in place, oil/water lines and electricals clamped properly so nothing comes in direct contact with the hot bits.

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In this case do not drive as I have described LOL

She is alright with it, kind of, but then again my driving is probably fairly bitchy compared to most haha. Last night came back on rive road from mosman, its a pretty average drive but has some nice little turns and a nice dip into the valley with a nice S climb. Was great fun. Did break traction going up that hill in 2nd and it was a little nerve racking but f**king fun at the same time.

I want to ask though, if these turbine housings get as hot as you all say they do then why the hell is anyone here worried about heatsoak from the engine into a pod filter?

Edited by SargeRX8
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I want to ask though, if these turbine housings get as hot as you all say they do then why the hell is anyone here worried about heatsoak from the engine into a pod filter?

If you've boxed your pod properly then it won't be an issue. If you haven't, I would suggest you do so. The engine bay is hot enough without red hot manifolds/turbine housings, you'll be losing performance regardless.

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Well you can just heat wrap the exhaust manifold. That will drop engine bay temp. Heat wise the exhaust manifold lights up while the turbine housing is not. How ever after 22psi the turbine housing set alight too, thats about when its stopped making power.

Any way, I'll be making a dual gated .82 rear housing for it next week, for the time been I've fitted a FNT G3 this morning. Bit more lag compare to the SS1PU, but so much more torque and top end. Its still got a linear pull down low that goes out of control after 4000RPMs burning rubber in 3rd gear.

The FNT nozzle setup has changed hugely in driving ability and throttle response. I will be dyno tuning it in about 2 weeks for a comparsion. FNT upgrade highly recommended for any one who's currently with older versions of G2 or G3 models.

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With the SS3 I've designed a new comp wheel based on the SS2. Which worked ok as you can see the power didn't roll off up top. This turbo is designed to work with external gate, but I will test the internal gate either way.

I'm not really planning to make it internally gated or bolton to stock dump pipe unless special request. So won't be expansive to produce or retailed. I will calculate the final price once evaluation is complete.

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whats the optimum bosst level of the ATR43SSPU turbo people are running. i have a 15PSI actuator and will use this as the low setting in my dual stage boost controller but am unsure about the high setting. looking back in this thread I seem to notice between 21-25 PSi.

Does this seem right?

What are you guys that have this turbo running?

Cheers,

Darren

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