Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[jet_r31]

Where you still looking at fitting the nozzles to the PU hi-flow exhaust housing and re-testing?

cheers

darren

[hypergear]

This is the DIY guide for people who’s installing a SS-1 with stock comp housing. Its harder to install compare to a High flow or other ATR43 series, but nothing special. It was done at friend's workshop whom is an experienced and licensed mechanic. We started at 9PM and finished at 12.20AM.

This turbo comes with:

1x Braided oil feeding line with 2x fittings, and oil drain adaptor.

You need to get:

4x M18 fat brass washers 2mms thick each.

1x M10 brass Washer 1mm thick

1x M12 brass washer 1mm thick

1x 20mm hard oil resistant hose in 30cms long

1x oil drain adaptor gasket or gasket paper cut in shape

If you are using the SS-1's original comp housing that has 3in inlet and 2 inches out lets you will need to make a hard intake pipe and a 2 to 2.5 inches silicon hose. Please refer to post:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5871912

This is what it looks like with factory turbo removed:

factory oil lines and fittings must be removed:

M12x1.25 Speed flow fitting supplied goes onto the block with the 12mm brass washer, the bracket holding chassis side water line must be released:

Connect the straight hose tail of the braided oil feeding line supplied to the engine block oil fitting.

Here comes the hard bit: Fitting factory water lines. The trick is to screw in the factory M18x1.5 banjo bolt into the engine side water fitting port of the turbo without securing it on to the exhaust manifold. Fit the turbo onto the manifold studs with the water line attached.

Loosely secure the turbo with about 10mms of play on the manifold.

Connect the chassis side water fitting by forcing the metal line 10mms downwards and 10mms forward toward.

You must get a perpendicular angle for the fittings to go in. This is probably the hardest part. Once the fittings goes in, check to make sure it clears the drain port area, secure the turbo to manifolds studs, and secure water lines. It took 12 mints for my mechanic to secure both lines, uncut footage is at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43ss/installation/diy/fittingwaterlines.wmv

Once water lines are secured, connect oil feeding line to the turbo (10mm brass washer is required in between the adaptor and turbo).

This is generic aftermarket drain pipe:

Fit the hard oil resistant hose on and extremely important make sure it does not bend or kink.

Or you can modify factory hard drain pipe to suit like what I did:

Connect dump pipe and install stock heat shield.

Connect all pipings, start the car and check/repair any leak, and job is now complete.

Driving on 7psi with the new turbo running stock ECU, the car pulls lot hard under throttle (1/4, 1/2 or full). I'm currently waiting for a set of 740cc injectors to come in from US. Will have it tuned shortly.

Where you still looking at fitting the nozzles to the PU hi-flow exhaust housing and re-testing?

cheers

darren

Yes I'm waiting to get my other R33 back on road. Currently doing another engine rebuild due to previous mechanic's fk up. But FNT turbine have worked pretty well. Check previous reply regarding to FNT.

[jet_r31]

Cool, i'm just waiting to see how that pans out, then will decide which turbo i will buy

cheers

darren

[wisey18]

Stao,

What sort of power output are you looking for with the above SS1 setup with bigger injectors?

[hypergear]

Refer to dynosheet earlier the peak power of 265rwkws at 6500RPM was at 18psi. Assume I can hold 18psi across all rev ranges I should still get around the 265rwkws mark. How ever I won't be able to run 24psi at mid range using this motor so should end up with similar peak power with slight less mid range.

[Torques]

Very helpful ..

Though I have not bought my hybrid off you, I was struggling with mounting the lines myself.

I like the video, especially since I can see that it is a bit of a struggle even for you.

Cheers from UK ...

[GeorgesR34]

Very helpful ..

Though I have not bought my hybrid off you, I was struggling with mounting the lines myself.

I like the video, especially since I can see that it is a bit of a struggle even for you.

Cheers from UK ...

I've bought a high flowed turbo off them last year I never run into that much of trouble installing them, mine water fittings were all within 10mms of reach. This ss1 turbo appear to have a very different center core then mine, this video or illustration doesn't seems to apply to their high flows.

Edited June 23, 2011 by GeorgesR34

[Torques]

Hello ..

I think the high-flowed simply keep the centre housing?

?

I bought my Hybrid here in the UK, and the centre is a Garrett T3

I've bought a high flowed turbo off them last year I never run into that much of trouble installing them, mine water fittings were all within 10mms of reach. This ss1 turbo appear to have a very different center core then mine, this video or illustration doesn't seems to apply to their high flows.

Edited June 23, 2011 by Torques

[GeorgesR34]

Different center housing but appears larger in size to what they've fitted.

[Crans]

Stao uses garret cores from my understanding

[Birds]

High flow keeps all housings, it's the CHRA that gets replaced, whilst the housings get machined.

[hypergear]

Stao uses garret cores from my understanding

We used to. Since every one are looking for a big mark up in boost and power with high flows, Components that are working with limited sized housings will have to stand greater amount heat and pressure.

There are constraints in Garrett parts, I consider they are best working with their own housings.

We are making our own bits and pieces since early 10 that I considered them been more “beefed up”. We've also engineered couple of customized wheels for better flow in restrictive housings. You can see how ours high flows and custom turbos making more and more No.s with better response and driving ability as our development progress.

and yes, we normally generic T3 water cooled bearing housings for high flowing, they are very similar in size and position to stock R33 bearing housings. Lot easier to fit water lines with.

[hypergear]

Update 30/06/11:

Finally got my test car's back together assembled, still got a small oil leak from the crank seal which will be changed. Took for a drive it’s going very strong. Currently got a KAI OP6 high flow on it will be getting that tuned for a proper reading once run in is complete.

This is from the member whom bought my SS-2 prototype. It made 240rwkws at 11psi on a low pressure actuator. Pretty good power for the boost? Car's had some miss firing issues to sort so that’s all it can do with out triggering the issue.

For a bit of fun side of turbo building this is a customized ATR43SS-1 made for an external gate setup with a 4 inches inlet and 2 inches out let.

It runs 3inche Vband adaptor in the back:

with a trumpet outlet:

Happy with our welding work ?

[kwickr33]

Stao are you getting that new skyline tuned? I'll be very interested to see results of that from a untouched engine.

Add:

Also are you making any thing in between the SS1 and SS2? any chance of making 270~300rwkws mark with 2530's response?

Edited July 1, 2011 by kwickr33

[SargeRX8]

Thats my dyno above The car was even misfiring at 2500 on only 6psi. We sorted it out by fixing the spark plug gap. Now the fuel pump has failed and was failing during the tune and the car is undriveable The tuner was impressed with the power it made on that boost. We initially had a high boost actuator and he was worried about this as it was making full boost, it hit 19psi, by about 3500rpm and said that there is no way he can recommend that all day every day so we opted for the lower actuator with good results. He reckons with a 10 - 12psi actuator he could make 250rwkw on 12psi and about 265 - 270rwkw on 15psi and more on higher boost. Very happy with this turbo. Just pissed off I cant do anything with the car due to the fuel pump. Its leaning out which is obviously a fuel related issue. Hopefully the new fuel pump sorts out this issue.

If the fuel pump fixes my issues, I will post back after we touch up the tune.

Edited July 1, 2011 by SargeRX8

[GTScotT]

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you.

Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

[JKR-32]

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you.

Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

"This is from the member whom bought my SS-2 prototype. It made 240rwkws at 11psi on a low pressure actuator. Pretty good power for the boost? Car's had some miss firing issues to sort so that's all it can do with out triggering the issue."

In Stao's post mate

Edited July 1, 2011 by JKR-32

[SargeRX8]

Sarge, am happy the push to HG has worked out so well for you.

Can you clarify what turbo it was again?

The ss2 turbo on page 74. Stao made huge power, 320rwkw with the same turbo but my tuner wasn't comfortable with a standard block taking that much pressure. This is an awesome turbo. Some people like a turbo that just comes on, this turbo is very linear. It literally feels like it is pulling harder and harder to red line. Can't wait to start driving it again.

[Rolls]

Thats my dyno above The car was even misfiring at 2500 on only 6psi. We sorted it out by fixing the spark plug gap. Now the fuel pump has failed and was failing during the tune and the car is undriveable The tuner was impressed with the power it made on that boost. We initially had a high boost actuator and he was worried about this as it was making full boost, it hit 19psi, by about 3500rpm and said that there is no way he can recommend that all day every day so we opted for the lower actuator with good results. He reckons with a 10 - 12psi actuator he could make 250rwkw on 12psi and about 265 - 270rwkw on 15psi and more on higher boost. Very happy with this turbo. Just pissed off I cant do anything with the car due to the fuel pump. Its leaning out which is obviously a fuel related issue. Hopefully the new fuel pump sorts out this issue.

If the fuel pump fixes my issues, I will post back after we touch up the tune.

What's wrong with 19psi at 3.5k?

[SargeRX8]

Peter said he had been working with this motors since they first came out and thinks its really dumb when people put that much boost on the motor considering the compression ratio. He said ok if you are aware its not going to last but I said I need the car to last me a fair while. his suggestion is run about 12 psi low and run 17 to 19 high. He said what is the pint of cruising on the freeway then overtaking someone with such a high amount of boost.. It is logical and with good reason.