Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Dyno didn't go the best today

On 20psi was making 250rwkw and power to limiter which was same power as before on 25psi but before power dropped off at 5600rpm now pulls to limiter

Yavuz said this turbo has more legs than the other turbo but as the boost was turned up detonation started to set in on 23psi was 263kw but slight pinging so left it at 20psi

I'm going to try the .86 rear on it in a few weeks and see how I go as he said the engine will be a lot happier with the .86rear on the higher boost pressure better

Hopefully doesn't hurt response too much but now it always starting to boost on any throttle

This is almost the same issue I had with mine. We got to 20psi but as we turned it up more it would ping straight away.

Ask Yavuz if the symptoms are the same as mine... Maybe its something in the design that Stao should be aware of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is almost the same issue I had with mine. We got to 20psi but as we turned it up more it would ping straight away.

Ask Yavuz if the symptoms are the same as mine... Maybe its something in the design that Stao should be aware of.

sounds like too much exhaust back pressure, if you could externally gate this thing you would be able to add more boost (judging from the statements above)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its on a .64 rear housing. I was on 255rwkws @ 20psi and only gained 15kws with 5psi of extra boost. Those turbines are good for the 250rwkws mark. Any thing large on the exhaust end would hurt response by a lot for the SR20det specially without VCT. Ideally they are best working on a variable turbine geometry. Still work in progress at current stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or a noisy dirty gate :yes:

If I reach 270rwkw I will be happy as now if he upped the boost he said he had to remove a lot of timing to the point that it made the same power up top with less boost and more timing

It was

So hopefully with the .86 rear the engine can breathe better and won't knock with 20+psi and the timing can be added back in

Was yours with the .64 rear aswell ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah mine was a .64

At the drags I bumped the knob on my EBC shifting to 3rd and got 23psi. It pinged really loud in 4th but went over 119mph lol (117mph @ 18psi real power roughly 238kw)

Get that issue resolved and there is a lot more power stowed away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option is run the ATR28G3 turbine wheel. This is also a customized turbine wheel that I've made to suit a T28x bearing housing originally for high flowing Stock T28. This CHRA isn't very popular on the CA/SRs how ever used often on the CT20 Supra twin high flows.

chrarear-600x600.JPG

housings-600x600.JPG

It appears to be 500RPMs laggier on paper when its first trailed in 2009. Now using FNT turbine and SS1.5 billet comp wheel I might be able to gain 300RPMs in response to what it was, using a .64 turbine getting 20psi by 4000RPMs while not chocking the SR20det motor in upper revs. Will update photos once its been made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah but is it the turbine chocking the engine or turbine housing ?

As the turbine housing ar is the measurement of the turbine housing inlet so wouldn't that the first bottleneck for the engine ?

I'll still give the .86 a try on my car to see how it goes but are you going to try the atr28g3 turbine on the ss1.5 ? Also what size is it and you got your s14 engine fixed yet ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unlikely to be chocking, just like high flowing a small R33 turbocharger using factory housing and get full potential of that. I just didn't like lag.

I've fixed the timing chain, and ordered a brand new VCT cam gear form US. Will be back on the dyno very soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OP6 and 21U run the same high flow profile. and makes about 30kws differences in power.

Run larger wheels also has a "bigger housing" affect. Means it enables the housing to discharge air faster, less back pressure, less heat. On the same time needs higher velocity to spool. Which is lag. Just like as if I can drop in a GT35 turbine in a .64 rear it will be making 300rwkws+.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I've read in the past the 76 trim GT28 turbine works alright in the matching 0.64 AR GT28 turbine housing but can have response issues in the larger 0.86 GT28 housing . When you team this up with a 2L four banger the "time to torque" gets annoying when you want grunt now .

IMO the turbine has to spin fast enough to run the compressor in its useful speed range and not create too much resistance to flow - with the engine in a boosted state .

Some claim that using the larger 0.86 housing slows the exhaust velocity too much and the turbine/compressor speed is less creating lag .

I had one on the old GT2860RS (FJ20) but these have relatively small 60mm OD compressors which didn't need much turbine power to spin up anyway . The theory here was low exhaust pressure when running in a supercharged state possibly maxing the small compressor but power out of these wasn't that high .

Now days similar or slightly larger diameter GTX etc billet compressors get more out of that turbine but eventually it becomes the limiting factor .

A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...