Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

I'm considering on going back to pump 98 with e10 united p100 from eflex

It should reach my power goal and is more readily available

I was thinking of getting it tuned on p100 and just use regular 98 daily driving to work but just wind back 5psi boost and plus I don't drive it hard daily and if I want to go to the track or thrash it I will fill it up with p100 and put it on high boost

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never mind chatting about other turbos here. It encourages me of engineering better turbos.

Here are the result for the SS1.5 from today, from my Sr20det S14 with No VCT controller.

Maxed out at 270rwkws, 20psi by 3850RPMs. Pump 98 fuel

power.JPG

boost.JPG

VS the Garrett 3071 and SS1 in .86 rear housing:

Pink light blue: GT3071

Red: ATR28SS1 in .86 Rear.

Thick blue: ATR28SS1.5 in .64 rear

vs3071power.JPG

vs3071boost.JPG

I would say this turbocharger is probably good for 260rwkws internally gated. We added heaps more boost in last run how ever it didn't hold and only picked up 10kws.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah there's only basically one caltex near me that I use eflex from that's on the way to work

So it's not very convinient as you always need to carry jerrycans on long drives and it's my daily and only car

Flex fuel is not a option as it will be very expensive for the tune ecu and sensor and my injectors are already very close to limits even on 4 bar fuel pressure so won't see much power over pump with e85 as I'll be capped with the amount of fuel and not turbo but I'll let my tuner decide

Hey stao was the turbo you used ext gated ?

Edited by hy_rpm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Stao that ss1.5 looks very promising on the SR. Its fair to say that it would be a more responsive turbo than the ss1pu.

Just out of curiosity would it be possible to upgrade the ss1pu to the ss1.5?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stao I'm curious to hear what you think of compressor housing size and power levels , where you think the cut off points are for the 0.60 T04B , the 0.50 and 0.60 T04Es . The T04S is usually as big as most go and I'm curious to hear how much difference you think there is between it and the 0.60 T04E .

Also can you supply a T3 spacer plate in 15 to 20mm because I can't easily get one , GCG advertise a 20mm one but they don't have them and don't know when ...

I have their longer studs and I want the thicker spacer to cover any future updates , do once do right .

It's no secret that I don't like the S covers mainly because they look bigger even if it's not much over the T04E port shrouded one . I just can't get my head around using a supposedly 700 hp comp housing on a 4-500 hp compressor .

There are a few less common compressor housings floating around like the 0.70 AR T04B and there may even be a T04S 0.60 AR . I remember Brett telling me years back about a 2" outlet comp housing they used as an upgrade to the XR6Ts T04E one so there must be a few odd ones out there .

Thanks Stao , cheers Adrian .

There are couple of things to consider, One of them is the bell clearance. Since I machine all housings from raw castings, the physical size don't make that much of a difference, while Garrett housings are all fixed. If a larger wheel needs to be use in a small .60 T04B type of housings then I would be leaving the bell clearance higher to compensate flow. By lowering the clearance, discharge velocity is higher, which encourages better response and sharper throttle response, higher discharging temp is encouraged and flow restriction is created. In this case larger compressor housing is used in compensation for heat. Finding the perfect bell clearance in reference to individual wheels and housings, a dyno is very useful in doing that, which has been used often.

Larger compressor housings in general would have more materials, which smaller comp housings might machining through fitting certain wheels. It also allow anti surge ports to be added if required.

Yes I can supply 20mm spacers, it will cost you $40 each delivered. To purchase please message through your details.

The SS1.5 trailed is in a .64 rear housing. VNT turbine is working in progress at current stage.

Getting better response on the SR, it is more of a case of when the .64 rear end getting maxed out. SS1PU is still the largest wheel used, SS1.5 would definitely be more responsive, in theory it should not be making more power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again Stao , so much I'd like to talk about but yeah concerned about clouding your thread .

Firstly I'll pm you about that 20mm T3 spacer and the other thing I need is a GT30IW turbine housing dump flange with the first or bell mouthed tubular section welded to it .

I really wish someone made front/dump pipes for GT30/35R IWs on std manifolds for R33s because so many people have gone that way and it makes the conversion quick if you have everything else . Anyway if you can make the first bit that could save me some down time .

Compressor housings , I think Garrett has a size problem between the T04B and T04E because the B probably runs out of flow and the E is physically significantly larger . The ported shroud on the HKS style Garrett T04E is huge for what it has to do at 4" 100mm . You may have noticed that some of these housings on GT Pro S turbo have the cast sections machined off and they make their own turned section and bolt it on the front . Think they are 80 or 90mm inlets and that makes plumbing easier .

What I'm leading into with this is the FP HTA GT30 upgrades ie 71/73/76 wheels in T04S housings with machined snouts . Now I know there isn't a lot of information out about their HTA3071Rs and 73Rs and like Lithium I'm very interested to hear how they perform on RB25 roadies .

Cost aside I keep thinking surely they could get away with slightly more modestly sized comp housings than the T04S 70 AR at their power levels .

To my eyes compact things are easier things to work with and less obvious to hostile eyes . Ease and stealth are good IMO .

Last OT bit , punters make respectable power with XR6 turbos and they don't have big comp housings on them for a 4L engine . Low hot side restriction and modest boost levels I suppose .

PMing , cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really wish someone made front/dump pipes for GT30/35R IWs on std manifolds for R33s because so many people have gone that way and it makes the conversion quick if you have everything else . Anyway if you can make the first bit that could save me some down time .

Dare I say Stao could make you a .82 housing with a 6 bolt RB flange on the back of it, IWG or EWG.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Compressor housings , I think Garrett has a size problem between the T04B and T04E because the B probably runs out of flow and the E is physically significantly larger . The ported shroud on the HKS style Garrett T04E is huge for what it has to do at 4" 100mm . You may have noticed that some of these housings on GT Pro S turbo have the cast sections machined off and they make their own turned section and bolt it on the front . Think they are 80 or 90mm inlets and that makes plumbing easier .

What I'm leading into with this is the FP HTA GT30 upgrades ie 71/73/76 wheels in T04S housings with machined snouts . Now I know there isn't a lot of information out about their HTA3071Rs and 73Rs and like Lithium I'm very interested to hear how they perform on RB25 roadies .

Cost aside I keep thinking surely they could get away with slightly more modestly sized comp housings than the T04S 70 AR at their power levels .

To my eyes compact things are easier things to work with and less obvious to hostile eyes . Ease and stealth are good IMO .

Last OT bit , punters make respectable power with XR6 turbos and they don't have big comp housings on them for a 4L engine . Low hot side restriction and modest boost levels I suppose .

PMing , cheers A .

That is a compact paragraph of questions, I will be answering them in reference to my experiences in Q&A form:

Stao I'm curious to hear what you think of compressor housing size and power levels , where you think the cut off points are for the 0.60 T04B , the 0.50 and 0.60 T04Es . The T04S is usually as big as most go and I'm curious to hear how much difference you think there is between it and the 0.60 T04E .

Depending on the size of the wheel that is installed. Ie. machining a .60 T04B to suit a 82mm comp wheel, it will break through. Performance wise as explained earlier, I give high bell clearance on small housings with large wheels, and low for large housings with small wheels. The end results are usually very close.

It's no secret that I don't like the S covers mainly because they look bigger even if it's not much over the T04E port shrouded one . I just can't get my head around using a supposedly 700 hp comp housing on a 4-500 hp compressor .

Use large housing with low bell clearance to satisfy compressor wheel flow, that maintains discharging velocity as to if it is in a smaller comp housing.

Compressor housings , I think Garrett has a size problem between the T04B and T04E because the B probably runs out of flow and the E is physically significantly larger . The ported shroud on the HKS style Garrett T04E is huge for what it has to do at 4" 100mm . You may have noticed that some of these housings on GT Pro S turbo have the cast sections machined off and they make their own turned section and bolt it on the front . Think they are 80 or 90mm inlets and that makes plumbing easier .

Larger compressor housings has more materials working with bigger comp wheels. Shifting compressed air, discharging volume are pretty close assuming the housing has enough materials to suit the wheel. However discharging temperature is higher out of smaller comp housings. I'm not a fan of the anti-surge slots. How ever surging is a problem for larger engines. I only use them if I suspect/predict surging issues. With the machined removable shrouds, I believe those can be replaced by solid sleeves or add in larger shrouds rectifying surge problems.

Cost aside I keep thinking surely they could get away with slightly more modestly sized comp housings than the T04S 70 AR at their power levels .

Last OT bit , punters make respectable power with XR6 turbos and they don't have big comp housings on them for a 4L engine . Low hot side restriction and modest boost levels I suppose .
I didn't find much affects in using different comp housings on same compressor wheel, assume they are machined accordingly. Ie stock T04b comp housing (r33 comp housing) makes 376rwkws with G3 comp wheel, .large T04S .70 comp housing also made 376rwkws with G3 comp wheel with exact same response.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the new ATR43SS1PU, It has been trailed today internally gated on E85, one of the goals in this upgrade was steady boost which the previous SS1PU had a boost tapering behavior. I'm pretty happy with today's outcome.

Power made maximum of 325rwkws on 22psi of boost. Boost holding flat with a 18psi RB bolton IWG assembly.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Compare to the boost behavior on previous SS1PU turbocharger based on Brae side mount:

Blue / Orange: Current ATR43SS1PU

Red / Green: Retired version of ATR43SS1PU

boostvbrae.jpg

It appears that what I have done to the factory exhaust manifold (by drilling out the bottle neck) have let down a little in response. So it now have the same response pattern as an aftermarket exhaust manifold.

Blue / Orange: Current ATR43SS1PU

Rest: Retired ATR43SS1PU on Stock manifold with heaps of actuator preload.

boostvstock.jpg

Add:

By the way today's dyno run marked the 1800th times of dyno runs from my R33, since the start of the ATR43 project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the SR's on the dyno 4 times and starting to make a rattle noise in the head. Tolling it back to forced motor worx for check up on Tuesday.

The RB, did it 1800 times no problems. I think most of its KMs on the clock are Dyno KMs.

imagine a buyer comes up and saying "Its a high Ks car."

I will be like: "no no its all dyno Ks"

I think Peter might have posted result below some where. I got a proper copy from Trent yesterday, It is a Rb25det Neo, with the ATR43SS2 turbocharger on pump 98.

297rwkws.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Common for them rub on the top guide

Some people remove it

I just space it up with washers and use a s15 chain tensioner as it has finer adjustment otherwise you have to replace the timing chain and guides as it has stretched or the guides are worn and you have to remove the cover to do so which means engine out head off and int sump off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
    • Great discussion guys. I just have coil overs in my car right now. Ride is pretty stiff and everything feels very precise and accurate when hitting the corners. I started off with a high level and kept specimen.   the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing. Otherwise I have not thought too much into it as quite happy with the setup. I think the bushings are all good still.    My motor is currently out now but I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front.    added a photo of what I started with before the modding or let’s say modernization of parts started. 😂
    • Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.  
×
×
  • Create New...