Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Sarge can u hear it pinging? Does it happen on high boost?

What are the afr's doing?

Can't hear anything from the engine bay over the exhaust, the windows up doesn't help. Another thing that doesn't help is the fact that I cant make it happen every time. I can go to the same stretch of road where Ive pinged before, use the same gear, same start speed, same throttle and then no pinging. Its also hard to keep an eye on the AFR but on boost it goes down to about 12 and into the 11's. Ive tried to log it with the laptop but when I put the laptop down in the passenger seat and I drive over a bump in the road the USB cable comes jiggles and I lose connection. Really need someone in the passenger seat and a private stretch of road so I can test it out. Ive watched videos describing what ping would sound like. Some people say its the sound of metal chains dragging behind the car while some would bang a hammer on a piston and say that is what you will hear. Not sure what to make of it. Its not the easiest thing to fang second to redline and listen for ping in a skyline lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 12.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

Posted Images

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

maybe not enough throttle enrichment? I had that issue when I smashed the pedal here and there, I added in more throttle enrichment and it went away (just from my personal experience)

Its got some throttle enrichment in there and when I do quick stabs at the throttle the afr richen up abit. Its not the stabs which cause the det, seems I can push the car from 2000 - 6000rpm but it gets into a danger zone at around 6400 rpm.

Take up Jez on the offer and let him have a crack on the dyno. Don't risk your motor TRYING to make it ping on the road.

Yeah Ive been speaking to him, about it. I intend on selling off the current ECU and setup and going with an adaptronic or Haltech plugin. It does seem silly trying to induce knocking especially when its just for logging sake and I know I can't do anything to try fix it.

On a side note, anyone interested in a Z32, PFC, hand controller, greddy profec b sii and the fc edit :P Can't afford the new ecu and tune otherwise.

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Remember it can be false knock. The stock sensors arent perfect. So u dont see the knock go up in datalogit?

How high do u see on the h/controller?

Is the dash light flashing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

I agree with GTScotT sarge, take JEZ up on the offer dude.

I challenge you to find another tuner who will put your car on the rollers for free.

I have yet to find anyone that puts the extra free time and effort in like JEZ does :)

He actually cares about how a cars running when it leaves his shop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

I agree with GTScotT sarge, take JEZ up on the offer dude.

I challenge you to find another tuner who will put your car on the rollers for free.

I have yet to find anyone that puts the extra free time and effort in like JEZ does :)

He actually cares about how a cars running when it leaves his shop.

JEZ is the man :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

Remember it can be false knock. The stock sensors arent perfect. So u dont see the knock go up in datalogit?

How high do u see on the h/controller?

Is the dash light flashing?

Dash lights flash 3 times and when I see that happen thats when I remember to check the hand controller when I park at home. Usually the number is between 85 - 99. Never had a chance to pickup knock in the datalogit.

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

99! Pffft.

That's nothing sarge (I AM joking dude)

Mine was hitting the 120+ mark, I have heard it once and it is not a sound I would like to hear often.

Makes you ass clench a few times lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

That is odd.

Have u tried high boost. It will go in a different part of the map, curious if it pings on high boost. Does it do it only after a hot run?

Time for wmi or e85 sarge :)

Just make sure if u run wmi dont run the wmi out... Hey Dave :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Not necessarily after a hot run. I had the car parkes for about 30 mins after a 15 min drive. Gave it a squirt and the flashing light took away from the fun. E85 or flex fueol is where im heading. Wmi is just another thing that could potentially go wrong. Introducing another independant system would scare me lol. I think the flex fuel is the way to go. I tried that octane 100 with 5 or 10% ethanol content and it gave me a slightly better fuel consumption rate and I recall not a single ping event on that fuel. Get ready jez ill be heading up your way soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

That is odd.

Have u tried high boost. It will go in a different part of the map, curious if it pings on high boost. Does it do it only after a hot run?

Time for wmi or e85 sarge :)

Just make sure if u run wmi dont run the wmi out... Hey Dave :P

Smartass! :)

I could always blame the boys who put the fluid float switch in lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hardsteppa
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      A proper LSD.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rb26 expected power

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Timing map only tells part of the story, I've seen a few cars where the CAS has been adjusted so you might see 12 at the ECU but at the motor you could be seeing 8 kind of thing. A S15 I converted from PowerFC to Nistune had just that, CAS was turned back to have less timing than the ignition map itself lol... "Choonered".
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rb26 expected power

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?
    • Duncan
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Duncan · Posted

      swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Duncan
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Duncan · Posted

      Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
×
×
  • Create New...