Jump to content
SAU Community

Got Over 400kw Atw?


T04GTR

Recommended Posts

Proof is in the pudding. But still dubious of the 300-400% claim. Can someone point me in the direction of a good article on this?

My understanding from the old Iron Carbon diagram has always been strength-Ductility-toughness vs hardness is greatly dependent on the rates of heating and cooling etc and grain size and type. With cryo freezing you are not changing the grain structure type/composition, rather just refining the grain structure by making it slightly smaller and more uniform. So you are not increasing the UTS etc of the component, but stress relieving it so that it wont fail at its weakest point.

At work ATM, will post up excerpt from textbook tomorrow. But yeah basically what I got from it was that you're not actually make the gears any stronger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please don't get confused here... strength and hardness are two different properties. Hardness will most likely increase as a result of cryogenic treatment due to the formation of martensitic grain structure in the steel. With increased hardness the material wll become more brittle.

But this is just piss in the wind, I doubt anyone knows what steel the gears are exactly or if anyone has examined the grain structure before and after to know whether it has actually made a difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please don't get confused here... strength and hardness are two different properties. Hardness will most likely increase as a result of cryogenic treatment due to the formation of martensitic grain structure in the steel. With increased hardness the material wll become more brittle.

But this is just piss in the wind, I doubt anyone knows what steel the gears are exactly or if anyone has examined the grain structure before and after to know whether it has actually made a difference.

Ring Heat Treatment Australia. Their exact words were: 'improves the strength of the metal by 300-400%'. This certainly does not mean you are wrong, just relaying what they said as I am definitely no expert

They do the same thing to ambulance rotors and get more than double the life out of them. Not sure about the formation of martensitic grain structure but I know for a fact the gearboxes we have done are definitely stronger, which is the point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder with the ambulance rotors if that affects braking power?

I was always under the assumption that softer rotors provide better braking. With ambulances though, it is only designed for street conditions so that would be ideal for longevity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK I have finally made it to the 400 kw thread.

Car running rb26 block and -5's

Car made on 19psi 420rwks - I'm wrapped :D

Massive thanks to Trent & Cat from Chequered tuning who tuned the car over the weekend (wouldn't go anywhere else)

Trent tuned a felxi fuel set up on my Autronic

Also a huge thanks to Tas (Power Glide GTR) for getting the car to where it is - car has turned out mint mate :)

This is a hub result, yeah?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, but my car has read 350'ish awkw on 98 at Chasers 4WD dyno and 356rwkw on 98 at Trent's dyno. I'm due for a service and what-not, so i'll try and can get a Racepace one done as well.

For Melbourne, Trent's dyno is inline with all other big shops

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was under the impression it was 20psi

doesn't sound that far fetched... i got 400rwkw on 256 cams at 21psi - this car has bigger cams would seem reasonable i guess

It's E85 as well remember :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

420kw on 19psi is.....questionable.

Your kidding right !!

I dont jump in on these threads much but I've seen plenty of cars in Japan running 1.3 bar and pushing well over 400kw.

I know of a few floating around oz as well.

You dont need big boost to make response and power, just a well built motor top to bottom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well if its a hub dyno then yea its goin to read higher,

mine made 375rwkw on a chasis dyno, on gate spring pressure which was around 18 psi

cam gear set on 0 and on Pump gas

LIke Marcus said, everything needs to be set up correctly.... EVERYTHING!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and everyone else has missed the fact the Trent's dyno DOESN'T read higher than other dyno's in melb :rolleyes:

It made 370rwkw on 98, which is about what you'd expect for 98 for '5s RB26 - it's around what the RP cars make on 98, Chasers cars make on 98 etc. If an RP car came up in a thread saying they made 370rwkw with -5's on a 98, no one would blink an eye and think it's just par for the course.

Hub dynos read higher if the operator wants them to read higher

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the red line was on pump, fuel to the fire I believe mine made over 380 on pump...

That is a 40kw gain from pump to e85 which is just awesome.

Great result making 420rwkw on a low 19-20psi!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • lol, yeah, and how gutted I am now I’m back over in Europe (actual Europe) and dealing with the nightmare of U.K.-Continental Europe bureaucracy.   Anyway, arrived in NL early January with the BMW, whilst the Skyline followed suit about a week later. Both cars ended up stuck with their relative importers for about six weeks. Since then, I made a trip to the Nurburgring with a friend and have since ditched the Skyline in the garage. This week, I finally managed to find a suitable shop to do an alignment so hopped on over to Germany to fix the miserable mess the local Netherlands shop conducted; the car was just not aggressive enough in the rear for my driving style - I found myself understeering a fair bit at the ring which was really a first for me with this car. Mis-matched F&R tyres can be held partly responsible - have now moved to F+R NS2Rs. One thing I’ve noticed is the 180kph limiter just does not cut it here. I quickly hit that (for the first time) in Germany on the autobahn. Japanese circuits are small - at least the ones that were near me. I rarely spent much time in 4th. After much deliberation with the HKS SLD, I have ordered Nistune from Matt. Whilst the Skyline has been gathering dust I got to learning the highly neglected BMW I bought in the U.K. was in fact just that, highly neglected. Took the ol’ dog down to Switzerland last weekend with a progressively deteriorating front end. It went from vibration during braking at highway speed on the way down, to vibrating non-stop on the way back. I’ve already fixed numerous engine issues - low oil pressure, f**ked injectors, incorrect coils and plugs, electric water pump. Still to do is a suspension and brake overhaul, rear subframe replacement and likely more ageing engine electrical components. But I must say, I love it. After so long with the Skyline, I really didn’t know cars could be so comfortable.    
    • Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno. 
    • Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser. 
    • Took it apart to get to the bearing found out i was wrong the bearing was pressed on to the diff side and the part i removed only had the bearing side, checked the bearing all looked fine took the shaft end to a shop and they recon it was movement from back and forth that made the marks and not rumbling about, so i just changed the seal and put it all back again.
    • Oh dear. That's um. There's like. Um. a lot of bare wires there. Take the whole thing out. Something is very very shorted somewhere. IT IS NOT CAUSED BY THAT "RELAY" (assuming it is a relay).
×
×
  • Create New...