Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Leak


donut_kng
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok, after having grief getting my boost controller to work, I have narrowed it down to it being a boost or exhaust leak.

Im thinking its either from either 1) exhuast i.e manifold to ext wastegate or turbo to manifold or manifold to engine or no. 2) somewhere along the intercooler piping to throttle body.

Basically what it does, is no boost past 15psi with any boost controller turned up to max, and with no boost controller - running it straight of the ext wastegate I only see bout 10psi, when it has a 14psi spring.

My question is is there any way to tell where the leak is from (1 or 2)? Just would like to get a heads up before I start ripping off impossible to get to wastegates.

Cheers in adavanced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

by boost i mean exhaust pressure or boost pressure,

as my theroy is if im not making boost its either bcause its pissin out through a leak before it gets to the turbo, or after the turbo has made the boost BUT before it gets to the plenum (which is where the guage is tapped off)

I have tried 2 boost controllers both with the same problem - and even tried it with no boost controller and im only getting 10psi out of a 14psi gate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

(I keep this saved because I couldn't be bothered to write it up everytime someone asks how to find a leak in the intake.)

1. take your pod and AFM off.

2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one).

3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal.

4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal.

5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself.

6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos.

7. Listen for a leak. And use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is if need be.

It is easier to find a boost or pressure leak using this method because the car is not running and is easier to hear and locate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...